Always use the resistor.
Yes grounding each of pin 14 and 15 will cause pot to move. You are trying to see if it will move using your remote. The amplified receipt of the IR is on Pin 6.
You might get some very erratic results as the PIC is there to make sense of what is being received.
Probably wont mean very much as each pulse from the IR will cause the pot to move a small step. Might be time to try the PIC.
Yes grounding each of pin 14 and 15 will cause pot to move. You are trying to see if it will move using your remote. The amplified receipt of the IR is on Pin 6.
You might get some very erratic results as the PIC is there to make sense of what is being received.
Probably wont mean very much as each pulse from the IR will cause the pot to move a small step. Might be time to try the PIC.
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Try remote control.
If Mark Space Ratio of transmitted pulses are equal I would not expect to see anything.
This is where the PIC has to do its work.
😱 To be honest, I have no clue what you are talking about... is there a way we can simulate the signal generated by the IR reciever and put that on pin 6?
Every Remote Control outputs each key press using a unique code. 100110001110 (that is just a random bunch of 1s and 0s and means nothing)
The 1 could be 1uS long or 1mS long, it depends on the manufacturer.
It is the job of the PIC to read this code and to convert it back into an instruction, ie Volume Up or Volume Down.
Different manufacturers use different languages so what might mean TURN OFF in one language could be CHANGE CHANNEL in another, if in fact the two languages are even close RUSSIAN and FRENCH for example. Being European we can normally read each others languages even if we cant interpret or understand it. In the case of Russian, Arabic or Hebrew we can't even guess what it says.
I can remember being in Moscow and having to carry a sign with the stop that I was looking for hoping that someone would recognise my plight.
The IR receiver is simply receiving the light pulses and amplifying them, it also probably gets rid of background noise from other light sources.
The PIC now has to try to read the code and turn it into UP or DOWN.
MARK is another term for LOGIC 1 or YES, SPACE is another term for LOGIC 0 or NO. So 1001 could be MARK SPACE SPACE MARK.
As the MARK is a light pulse it can be any length from the briefest of flashes to quite a long period.
Someone is going to argue that you can also get inverse logic, where LOGIC 1 is no light and LOGIC 0 is some light. It doesn't matter. We have to have TWO states, ON and OFF and we need to differentiate between them.
FSK or Frequency Standard Keying achieves this with two different frequencies. 1KHz might be a LOGIC 1 and 4KHz might be a LOGIC 0.
We have no way of knowing how the PIC programmer is achieving this.
The 1 could be 1uS long or 1mS long, it depends on the manufacturer.
It is the job of the PIC to read this code and to convert it back into an instruction, ie Volume Up or Volume Down.
Different manufacturers use different languages so what might mean TURN OFF in one language could be CHANGE CHANNEL in another, if in fact the two languages are even close RUSSIAN and FRENCH for example. Being European we can normally read each others languages even if we cant interpret or understand it. In the case of Russian, Arabic or Hebrew we can't even guess what it says.
I can remember being in Moscow and having to carry a sign with the stop that I was looking for hoping that someone would recognise my plight.
The IR receiver is simply receiving the light pulses and amplifying them, it also probably gets rid of background noise from other light sources.
The PIC now has to try to read the code and turn it into UP or DOWN.
MARK is another term for LOGIC 1 or YES, SPACE is another term for LOGIC 0 or NO. So 1001 could be MARK SPACE SPACE MARK.
As the MARK is a light pulse it can be any length from the briefest of flashes to quite a long period.
Someone is going to argue that you can also get inverse logic, where LOGIC 1 is no light and LOGIC 0 is some light. It doesn't matter. We have to have TWO states, ON and OFF and we need to differentiate between them.
FSK or Frequency Standard Keying achieves this with two different frequencies. 1KHz might be a LOGIC 1 and 4KHz might be a LOGIC 0.
We have no way of knowing how the PIC programmer is achieving this.
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Not really. You need to ensure that you have a Remote Control that is compatble with the decoding software (firmware) of the PIC.
You can shout as loud as you like in Arabic but us English wont understand you.
You can shout as loud as you like in Arabic but us English wont understand you.
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yeah, cause it is either way the pic or the remote right? I thought (because I have a philips universal remote) it would be smooth sailing....
Have a look on E-Bay for the remote, they can often be found for next to nothing. Better still see if the guy who sold you the kit can supply a compatible Remote.
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Just did.. bought a remote that (according to the product's webside) should be working.. it should arrive tuesday... fingers crossed!
Hi
The remote board have it own power supply, just connect the ac cable in and put in the remote ic, it should worked. Forget about the external supply.
and make sure transmitter and receiver address are the same.
Thanks
The remote board have it own power supply, just connect the ac cable in and put in the remote ic, it should worked. Forget about the external supply.
and make sure transmitter and receiver address are the same.
Thanks
Hi Eric,
It looks like that C7 in the power supply Bord was fit in the wrong direction.
It seems to me that this was the cause of the flash.
It looks like that C7 in the power supply Bord was fit in the wrong direction.
It seems to me that this was the cause of the flash.
by taking a better look it is not C7 bud the diode bridge that has blown up.
Is that one installed the right way?
Is that one installed the right way?
It is definitely installed the right way. What I see now though.. is that the markings on it are completely different from what it should be according to the manual:
The rectifier is labelled RB154, the manual is talking about W005 or W1G or W02...
The rectifier is labelled RB154, the manual is talking about W005 or W1G or W02...
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