Hi all
Well.. not really exploding, but when I switched it on for the first time there was a flash, all the lights went out and eerrmmm it did not work. I disconnected the DC powersupply from the Control board and the Alps from the control board. When I plug in the dc powersupply I measure nothing on the output. But there is no flash either and the light stays on 🙂.
They are kits from Mikkel from Dantimax, I have emailed him as wel but sometimes it takes him ages to answer, and I would like to get on with the project. So any tips on what could have happened and how to proceed trouble shooting from here? Help as always highly appreciated!
Erik
Well.. not really exploding, but when I switched it on for the first time there was a flash, all the lights went out and eerrmmm it did not work. I disconnected the DC powersupply from the Control board and the Alps from the control board. When I plug in the dc powersupply I measure nothing on the output. But there is no flash either and the light stays on 🙂.
They are kits from Mikkel from Dantimax, I have emailed him as wel but sometimes it takes him ages to answer, and I would like to get on with the project. So any tips on what could have happened and how to proceed trouble shooting from here? Help as always highly appreciated!
Erik
Attachments
Were the boards pre-assembled and tested ?
Did you connect the power supply correctly ?
Where did the flash appear to come from ?
I can see that you had it mounted on a wooden board so shorting it to a metal case is already negated.
For all the lights to go out it would appear that the problem is in the mains side of the project.
Did you connect the power supply correctly ?
Where did the flash appear to come from ?
I can see that you had it mounted on a wooden board so shorting it to a metal case is already negated.
For all the lights to go out it would appear that the problem is in the mains side of the project.
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NopeWere the boards pre-assembled and tested ?
If you look at the picture, I connected the top output of the dc to the top input of the remoteDid you connect the power supply correctly ?
from one of the boards... pretty unsure cause I was a few meters away when I plugged in.Where did the flash appear to come from ?
TrueI can see that you had it mounted on a wooden board so shorting it to a metal case is already negated.
So that would be in the power supply, wich would explain why it is not distributing any power at the moment...For all the lights to go out it would appear that the problem is in the mains side of the project.
If the boards were not pre-assembled have you fitted all the components the right way round.
Are you sure that you connected the PSU correctly +ve to RED (generically) and -ve to BLACK (again generically).
Have you got correct PSU mains voltage?
Connecting a PSU that was intended for 110V operation would seriously blow most of the circuitry. A 110V PSU wouldn't last very long if plugged into 220V or 240V but would last long enough to cause the symptoms that you are describing.
Are you sure that you connected the PSU correctly +ve to RED (generically) and -ve to BLACK (again generically).
Have you got correct PSU mains voltage?
Connecting a PSU that was intended for 110V operation would seriously blow most of the circuitry. A 110V PSU wouldn't last very long if plugged into 220V or 240V but would last long enough to cause the symptoms that you are describing.
Might sound stupid, I do not intend to insult your intelligence. But on one occasion I saw a guy connect Mains supply to the input of a rectifier / regulator board.
It all went BANG
It all went BANG
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Might sound stupid, I do not intend to insult your intelligence. But on one occasion I saw a guy connect Mains supply to the input of a rectifier / regulator board.
It all went BANG
What is not there can't be insulted 🙂
I have some ideas of what happened though, take a look at the pictures of the powersupply:
Will this have damaged my remote card?
Attachments
Do you have schematics of the boards.
The photos reveal nothing.
The damage shown could have been caused by either the PSU or the circuitry that it drives. Experience would suggest that you have done something wrong in the PSU but without more information this is pure speculation.
The photos reveal nothing.
The damage shown could have been caused by either the PSU or the circuitry that it drives. Experience would suggest that you have done something wrong in the PSU but without more information this is pure speculation.
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I wouldn't be too worried about the board, it has it's own diode-bridge and regulator, and it seems like you haven't plugged in the chip so far...
OK, I have used an old power adapter from a computer which produces 7,5 volt, and adjusted the control board according to the manual to work with 7,5 volt. I connected it, and tested the board with a resistor and I actuall had a moving potmeter! Thank you, specially andy for you quick and helpful replies! Now to find a 5 or 7,5v dc power supply to replace the exploded one, but for now, testing can continue!
This appears to be all backwards to me. Most remote controls are used to blow up other things - not the other way around. 😀😀
It seems as if you are making progress tho. From the looks of that blown track I would suspect the something shorted to ground - it takes a lot of juice to blow a track like that. Might have been a washer or screw that was used to secure it via the hole in the corner of the PWB???
It seems as if you are making progress tho. From the looks of that blown track I would suspect the something shorted to ground - it takes a lot of juice to blow a track like that. Might have been a washer or screw that was used to secure it via the hole in the corner of the PWB???
What is not there can't be insulted 🙂
I have some ideas of what happened though, take a look at the pictures of the powersupply:
Will this have damaged my remote card?
Are you sure you powered this with DC. Looking at the damage you have either used AC or powered it up the wrong way round.
Could it have been caused by the powerboard needing 115v whilst I fed it 230?
On the other hand, it does not really matter since it works now with my improvised powersupply.
The problem now is that while testing with a resistor between the holes of the ic mount I get the potmeter to move, but it does not seem to react on any of my philips remote controls, not even on the universal remote with various codes of philips devices...
I have attached the circuit and description... help would (again) be highly appriciated!
On the other hand, it does not really matter since it works now with my improvised powersupply.
The problem now is that while testing with a resistor between the holes of the ic mount I get the potmeter to move, but it does not seem to react on any of my philips remote controls, not even on the universal remote with various codes of philips devices...
I have attached the circuit and description... help would (again) be highly appriciated!
Attachments
Could it have been caused by the powerboard needing 115v whilst I fed it 230?
On the other hand, it does not really matter since it works now with my improvised powersupply.
The problem now is that while testing with a resistor between the holes of the ic mount I get the potmeter to move, but it does not seem to react on any of my philips remote controls, not even on the universal remote with various codes of philips devices...
I have attached the circuit and description... help would (again) be highly appriciated!
See Post #4. For a short duration you would have fed the board with 15V instead of the intended 7.5V. How long depends on how long it took for the stressed components to fail.
Your diagram doesn't show how the circuit received IR from the Remote Control. Any downstream regulators will probably have saved downstream circuitry.
oohh man.. you guys must get so fed up with newbees like me!
Which pins on the PIC socket have you joined with the resistor ?
Pin 10 is Ground.
The output of the IR receiver is on Pin 6.
I measured it and the output of the ir receiver is nicely arriving at pin 6, th emidle one on ground and the third one at the + side of C4... so far so good...
IMHO connecting Pin10 to pin 14/15 will achieve nothing. Try Pin6 to pin 14/15.
you mean with the resistor?
Connecting 10 with 14 definitely moves pot clockwise, 10 with 15 definitely anti clockwise...
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