I don't understand liters but winISD gives me 1.25 cuFTwith nice flat respond with 14 by .75in L port and a vent Mach of .08 by 30inches deep. What you guys thing. Unless I'm doing it wrong or something.
So what size should I do then the one u said or another one? Tuned to what frequency I get lost with some ppl saying is wrong etc.
If you don't need to go that low, use a closed box design. You can't go wrong with that. F3 is pretty good at 44Hz. If 20L is too small, you can always use 25L. No harm. Closed boxes are very forgiving.
For ported designs, box volume should not exceed Vas and box tuning should not be less than Fs.
Don't give up. Your JBL's are good drivers. I have a pair of 10" JBL car subs, can't recall the exact model off-hand. Tested them out and surprisingly, they were very impressive for home use.
For ported designs, box volume should not exceed Vas and box tuning should not be less than Fs.
Don't give up. Your JBL's are good drivers. I have a pair of 10" JBL car subs, can't recall the exact model off-hand. Tested them out and surprisingly, they were very impressive for home use.
FWIW, inputting Mms, Cms, Qms, BL, in lieu of Fs, Vas, Qes; WinISD 0.7 calculates different specs that require a T/S max flat alignment = ~2.4 ft^3 net/24 Hz Fb Vs ~1.6 ft^3 net/27.5 Hz Fb, so who knows what Leo's driver specs are.
In such a situation where either set of specs are technically unsuited for a simple vented alignment, 'bigger is better' [BIB] rules regardless of its Vas spec to potentially keep from winding up with a high tuned 'boombox' and considering it's high inductance [Le] and bass heavy music requirement, at minimum a 2.4 ft^3 net/20 Hz alignment to flatten, extend F3, etc. as low as practical is IME the way to go.
Regardless of the cab size chosen, the vent will need to be at least 4" dia. and quite long to tune a small cab down into the low-mid 20s to handle 300 W, so ideally best overall to make a long, folded, tapered pipe [TQWT] instead.
If it must be small, then sealing it up at the largest size that you can tolerate and EQ it to get the desired in room response is your only viable option, though at a much reduced bass efficiency.
Added the driver file here to DL to the 'driver' folder: http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...wnloadable-winisd-pro-files-jbl-gto1014td.wdr
I also recommend updating to WinISD 0.7 if not using it already and in the 'advanced' setting, click on the 'simulate inductance.......' option: https://twitter.com/suurvisiiri/status/139665715740413952
GM
This doesn't apply to drivers with an effective Qts' [Qts + any added series resistance] > either 0.383 or 0.403 depending on whose math you use where a max flat alignment is Vb = Vas, Fb = Fs. Above this Qts', a vented alignment should be some form of TL with a Vb > Vas and Fb < Fs, growing large and tuned lower with increasing Qts'.
GM
Subwoofer Drivers in the Speaker Components Department at Parts Express | 14
However the JBL GTO sub is a very good sub.. You can use that paired with the Yung amp for very good results as long as you don't skimp on box size.
Not choosing sides or arguing but...
Since I heard the same thing from a/d/s/ and JL Audio woofer designers in the past I tend to think Chris was accurate.
I would go that way. IIRC, that was what I did with my JBL GT1041. It's not optimally flat but what can I say, I am an easy guy to please. More importantly, I like small boxes.
If you want it optimal, I'm sure GM would be happy to post his TL designs. This is where a public forum is useful. You get more then one perspective.
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