Quite the interesting chassis. How tall is it? With longer rods on the sides and a thick piece of glass, this would make a good end table. I like how you made the bottom posts taper into a semi-point on the bottom.
It will be interesting to see the internals of this amplifier.
It looks like you have fan for the inside. Do you really need the fan with all of the massive heatsinking?
Good job,
--
Brian
It will be interesting to see the internals of this amplifier.
It looks like you have fan for the inside. Do you really need the fan with all of the massive heatsinking?
Good job,
--
Brian
\
I had to use Mounting rails for the TO-3 transistors, so the Heat sinks will not be as effective as they could be. The fans will be a precautionary measure.
Thanks for the feedback, I figured I could put a cushion on top and use it for a heated ottomon.
I plan on adding spikes to the feet, I have tapped them to accept .25" thread.
Anthony
I am going to try to put as many connections underneath as I can. The PE Module, Circuit Breaker and Power Switch is underneath, the I/O may need to be mounted on the back facing surface. I will be using these connectors again, see image below.
Thanks Peter, I say go bold or go home!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
chronic problem - aleph heatsinks
Well, I have assembled a pair of mono Aleph 5 (with amazing Brian´s pcb).
As I read above, I will need to dissipate about 300W total: for heatsink to be temp. 55C at 25C ambient ...
30/300=0.1K/W. For 4 pcs heatsinks must have a rating lower than 0.4K/W (?)
So, when I consider apply 4 heatsinks Fischer SK56 (lenght 200mm=0.3K/W each one), is it already enough or not?
Thanks.
Well, I have assembled a pair of mono Aleph 5 (with amazing Brian´s pcb).
As I read above, I will need to dissipate about 300W total: for heatsink to be temp. 55C at 25C ambient ...
30/300=0.1K/W. For 4 pcs heatsinks must have a rating lower than 0.4K/W (?)
So, when I consider apply 4 heatsinks Fischer SK56 (lenght 200mm=0.3K/W each one), is it already enough or not?
Thanks.
Attachments
Please read the catalog from Fischer (or any other heatsink supplier) with care. There are many assumptions and correction factors to apply. One important one is the temperature difference between heatsink and ambient that is used for the curve. In case of Fischer, it is, if I am not wrong, > 50degC above ambient. After the correction factor for a 30 degC rise, you will end up having to go to a larger heatsink.
All the information are available in the technical section of the catalog.
Patrick
All the information are available in the technical section of the catalog.
Patrick
Does anyone have any info on Black Anodizing Vs. Black Powder coating??? I know anodizing is better than paint, I've seen a few references to powder coating from people on here, but haven't found any definitive comparison's or experiment's. I know some things are powder coated for heat dispersion reason's (hi-perf. engine headers for example)
Dave
Dave
I think you will find that the reason to paint engine headers, is that cast aluminum is hard to anodize.
Anodizing is cheaper than powder coating, and offers much better convection cooling capacity.
The difference from raw aluminum to black anodized, is not all that, when taking into account, that the wast part of the heat is not radiated at lower temperatures.
Magura
Anodizing is cheaper than powder coating, and offers much better convection cooling capacity.
The difference from raw aluminum to black anodized, is not all that, when taking into account, that the wast part of the heat is not radiated at lower temperatures.
Magura
Heatsink coating
In the "old days" for the best results, the raw Ali heatsinks were etched then coated with 'flat black' leaded paint, then cooked in a commercial oven - still used today with non toxic paint.
Ali anodizing is relatively cheap and well finished, is an insulator (not very reliable), does radiate well, etc.
In the "old days" for the best results, the raw Ali heatsinks were etched then coated with 'flat black' leaded paint, then cooked in a commercial oven - still used today with non toxic paint.
Ali anodizing is relatively cheap and well finished, is an insulator (not very reliable), does radiate well, etc.
flg said:
No "powder coating"(paint) I know of will help your dissapation
The coating on headers is to retain the heat, not dissapate it. It was more likely a plasma or ceramic coating you are refering to
You're right, once you mentioned ceramic it clicked in my head, that was what I was thinking of... and it does make sense to contain heat in headers to help transfer it out of the engine compartment, thanks for all the advice everyone, I'll look into anodizing the process.
Dave
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