A 300B runs well at 375-ish Volt B+ and 60 mA anode current. You'll get around 5 Watt out with fairly low distortion. I have one running in that configuration and it sounds good to my ears.
~Tom
~Tom
Heck, why not a 2A3? That's an easy to drive DHT, and sounds really nice when hooked up well. You could use a +300V supply, cathode bias it. 2A3 with about +250V at anode, about -45V at grid, about 60mA thru it, 5k OPT load. That's close to the classic operating point, except with a higher than normal anode load (lower distortion, less power out). Figure maybe 3W out.
Drive it with something like a ECC99 or 5687, or a 6SN7. DC-couple two halves together, RC-coupled to the 2A3 grid.
Even a 5842 should be able to drive a 2A3 well enough, no?
Add a volume control and input selector switch and make a sensitive-enough two-stage "integrated amp."
--
Drive it with something like a ECC99 or 5687, or a 6SN7. DC-couple two halves together, RC-coupled to the 2A3 grid.
Even a 5842 should be able to drive a 2A3 well enough, no?
Add a volume control and input selector switch and make a sensitive-enough two-stage "integrated amp."
--
Yeah....what he said. I have a Tubelab SE with 5K Electra Print OPT's. It is the best sounding amp that I have with 45's in it but only makes 2 watts. The B+ is about 325 volts. I run 300B's in the same amp and get about 5 watts. The sound is very good but I prefer the 45's.
On a lighter budget the Simple SE or any similar circuit with 400 volts or more of B+ works great with 5K OPT's. You can run EL34's or 6L6GC's at 60 mA and they work great. KT88's seem to prefer a bit more current.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.