Actually, I just noticed on the back of the 9130, it says max power 600 Watts, so double my previous estimate of 3 Amps.
Hmm, I guess I could even drop a pair of UCD400 modules in there at that secondary voltage and wattage potential...
Hmm, I guess I could even drop a pair of UCD400 modules in there at that secondary voltage and wattage potential...
What is the operating definition of the back of cabinet watts rating? What does it mean?
Would a UCD-400 sound better than a 9130? I, also, am considering using my empty PRO-1200 chassis for something similar.
Dick
Would a UCD-400 sound better than a 9130? I, also, am considering using my empty PRO-1200 chassis for something similar.
Dick
Means it pulls 600 watts max from the wall.
The UCD400 (Class D) is 400wpc into 4 ohms. If its power you need, then this is it. Sound is very clean and tight.
I have not heard the 9130 as mine is fried, but a UCD400AD sounds very nice. I have a UCD400AD and it is my favorite amp so far.
After I finish my Class A Aleph 60 and Krell clone (still awaiting two chassis'), we will see which one "ranks" and stays in the system.
I am betting the Krell, then the Aleph, then the UCD, but I wouldn't be surprised.
The stereo UCD400 requires a transformer of at least 500VA and 40VAC secondaries (can be used with less Voltage for less than 400WPC into 4 ohms). The sinks are largely not even required as the UCD400 barely gets warm (Class D again)...a Very "Green" amp. The "Tree-huggers" love it.
The UCD400 (Class D) is 400wpc into 4 ohms. If its power you need, then this is it. Sound is very clean and tight.
I have not heard the 9130 as mine is fried, but a UCD400AD sounds very nice. I have a UCD400AD and it is my favorite amp so far.
After I finish my Class A Aleph 60 and Krell clone (still awaiting two chassis'), we will see which one "ranks" and stays in the system.
I am betting the Krell, then the Aleph, then the UCD, but I wouldn't be surprised.
The stereo UCD400 requires a transformer of at least 500VA and 40VAC secondaries (can be used with less Voltage for less than 400WPC into 4 ohms). The sinks are largely not even required as the UCD400 barely gets warm (Class D again)...a Very "Green" amp. The "Tree-huggers" love it.
Lid off - how to get inside amp ?
Ok, so this applies to SE 120 power amp.
Undo top 2 screws each side, at heatsink top.
Undo top 1 screw each side (next screw down on heatsink at back).
If it has a lid as tight fit as a ...., then you need to use two hooked pieces of metal. Fit one each side in the ventilation holes (facing away from vents, to avoid bending) through the lid; then pull up on the hooked 'tools' with pliers. Slowly. This will ease off the lid and you can get access to the inside of the amp.
Never known a lid fit like that before. Wow !
Ok, so this applies to SE 120 power amp.
Undo top 2 screws each side, at heatsink top.
Undo top 1 screw each side (next screw down on heatsink at back).
If it has a lid as tight fit as a ...., then you need to use two hooked pieces of metal. Fit one each side in the ventilation holes (facing away from vents, to avoid bending) through the lid; then pull up on the hooked 'tools' with pliers. Slowly. This will ease off the lid and you can get access to the inside of the amp.
Never known a lid fit like that before. Wow !
Hello, I realize this is an older topic, but I could use some help. I have a DH-120 installed new 10k 63c PS caps and removed the ambiance switch. I would like to remove the stereo/mono switch as well but Im not sure how to go about it. The see on top of the switch it has black and yellow wires going to the left chan. So what wires should I remove from the switch to get just stereo? I also added new binding post and I would like to add a three prong plug. But after doing some research I found that might not be such a great idea? Can anyone can help it would be greatly appreciated! Next month Im going to replace all 6 electrolytics 3 per side. thank you!