As with just about any international package shipment is MUST pass threw customs. From my understanding this is were the delay normally occurs from the US to Canada. Each form is looked over and the packages examined. I have shipped fairly small packages to Canada to from the US and they have even have taken over a week. At the same time shipped to Hawaii farther distance in miles or Kilometers 🙂 from me and it got their 2 days sooner. This was even before homeland security and 9/11. I am sure it didn't get any better.
that is true, but it doesn't answer why it is so bad from the us to canada. they are *so* close, and the border has been *so* loose in the past. i have sent things to japan that get there faster than canada!
OK,Ok,
I did want to hurt anybody, but from the sight of old europe Canada is as nearby to US like netherlands (or Switzerland or Austria) to germany.
Think about it, US is the strongest player in the game, should be more easy to send a little post to Canada, when you want to 'globalize' anyone, everything and anywhere.
I just thought, it should be easy as it is in EU.
Schöne Grüsse,
Andreas
I did want to hurt anybody, but from the sight of old europe Canada is as nearby to US like netherlands (or Switzerland or Austria) to germany.
Think about it, US is the strongest player in the game, should be more easy to send a little post to Canada, when you want to 'globalize' anyone, everything and anywhere.
I just thought, it should be easy as it is in EU.
Schöne Grüsse,
Andreas
Andreas, I can assure you that you won't have to wait long for your GC parts as soon as Peter mails them to you. Overseas service is indeed faster than from the US to Canada.
Btw: Peter,
when sending goods to the EU, it is advisable to ALWAYS state a value for customs, even if it's a small one. Stating no value makes it impossible that the parcel slips through customs. We'll have to go to the customs office then and explain a lot, show bills etc.
Still, I'm very happy with my two GC chassis 😎
Btw: Peter,
when sending goods to the EU, it is advisable to ALWAYS state a value for customs, even if it's a small one. Stating no value makes it impossible that the parcel slips through customs. We'll have to go to the customs office then and explain a lot, show bills etc.
Still, I'm very happy with my two GC chassis 😎
It took me 3 weeks to ship a package to Peter in Canada once, but it only took 5 days for Peter to ship a package to me. I would blame the customs system.
But, by using Fedex, it seems to bypass customs, in terms of the package being opened up and inspected. Fedex Ground seems like the quickest/most economical way to ship to Canada.
I have received a package from Japan in 4 days before.
--
Brian
But, by using Fedex, it seems to bypass customs, in terms of the package being opened up and inspected. Fedex Ground seems like the quickest/most economical way to ship to Canada.
I have received a package from Japan in 4 days before.
--
Brian
Re FeDEX
My experience has always been very good with them with US to Canada shipments/
US Postal Service in my experience is pretty good.
NEVER EVER use UPS to cross Canada/US border in either direction, they end up with all kinds of fees for brokerage/documentation etc. .
Fine within country
My experience has always been very good with them with US to Canada shipments/
US Postal Service in my experience is pretty good.
NEVER EVER use UPS to cross Canada/US border in either direction, they end up with all kinds of fees for brokerage/documentation etc. .
Fine within country
Michi124 said:
...when sending goods to the EU, it is advisable to ALWAYS state a value for customs, even if it's a small one. Stating no value makes it impossible that the parcel slips through customs. We'll have to go to the customs office then and explain a lot, show bills etc.
I was wondering how it works with small packages. Most all the GC kits I sent out were marked NCV which stands for "No Commercial Value".
Did anybody had to pay duties on that or had problem explaining?
I would appreciate any feedback, as I can adjust my declaration methods for the future.
Peter,
I had no problems with the package you send me.
You send it on Thursday the 9. I received it on
Monday the 13. in Denmark. (This month) That is quite fast I think.
With a weekend in the middle. Also, no trouble with customs.
I have also received a few packages from US, marked like this:
"Electronic samples, value 2 USD". That works too.
"The Karen", does it that way.
But you can't send it with insurance in either way, I guess.
Also, I have received a few packages with an Invoice of several hundred USD that slipped through customs!
I guess they were on a break, when that happened🙂
Steen.
Ps. The knobs are really great!
I had no problems with the package you send me.
You send it on Thursday the 9. I received it on
Monday the 13. in Denmark. (This month) That is quite fast I think.
With a weekend in the middle. Also, no trouble with customs.
I have also received a few packages from US, marked like this:
"Electronic samples, value 2 USD". That works too.
"The Karen", does it that way.
But you can't send it with insurance in either way, I guess.
Also, I have received a few packages with an Invoice of several hundred USD that slipped through customs!
I guess they were on a break, when that happened🙂
Steen.
Ps. The knobs are really great!
Peter Daniel
Earlier in this thread you remarked on the sonic importance of using a shorter signal path. In my current project, I am trying to fit a gainclone, DAC and phono stage in an old Kenwood integrated amp in order to save money on switches and pots. I can get everything pretty close together in the front of the amp but the rca inputs and speaker output lines need to go out the back. As you may have surmised, the layout demands 18" long connections within the enclosure from the inputs to the circuit boards, pots and switches and back out to the speaker terminals. Will the layout described above degrade the sound significantly? What is the crticial part of the signal path? Wouldn't it be worse to make long switch and pot paths?
Earlier in this thread you remarked on the sonic importance of using a shorter signal path. In my current project, I am trying to fit a gainclone, DAC and phono stage in an old Kenwood integrated amp in order to save money on switches and pots. I can get everything pretty close together in the front of the amp but the rca inputs and speaker output lines need to go out the back. As you may have surmised, the layout demands 18" long connections within the enclosure from the inputs to the circuit boards, pots and switches and back out to the speaker terminals. Will the layout described above degrade the sound significantly? What is the crticial part of the signal path? Wouldn't it be worse to make long switch and pot paths?
Why don't you place everything in the back of the amp and use shaft extenders on pots and switches?
While the length of the signal path may be important, it's not always critical. If you use decent wires it may be still OK, even with 18" of connection lengths.
While the length of the signal path may be important, it's not always critical. If you use decent wires it may be still OK, even with 18" of connection lengths.
Peter Daniel
The use of extenders in your amps results in an elegant solution but because of the position of the pots and switches on this integrated, I can't use extenders and fit the rather large batteries unless I opt for flexable wire type extenders and that would definitley comprimise the excellent feel the pots have now.
The use of extenders in your amps results in an elegant solution but because of the position of the pots and switches on this integrated, I can't use extenders and fit the rather large batteries unless I opt for flexable wire type extenders and that would definitley comprimise the excellent feel the pots have now.
You might still be able to run extenders between battery cells.
The batteries would be preferrably placed in front of the amp. I use Velleman kit for charging.
The batteries would be preferrably placed in front of the amp. I use Velleman kit for charging.
Peter Daniel
I looked and drew, then looked, measured and drew again and concluded that the only way to use rigid extenders was if they went through the cells. Just too many pots and switches 🙁
I looked and drew, then looked, measured and drew again and concluded that the only way to use rigid extenders was if they went through the cells. Just too many pots and switches 🙁
All remaining US orders have been shipped out this morning. If you didn't received an e-mail with the delivery confirmation number, drop me an e-mail and I will check into your order.
As for the international orders, the tracking information shows that the pcbs and parts for these should reach Peter in a few days.
--
Brian
As for the international orders, the tracking information shows that the pcbs and parts for these should reach Peter in a few days.
--
Brian
Majority of international orders have been shipped out last week. I was out of premium resistors, but received them today, so the rest of the orders will be shipped tomorrow.
If you want to know if your order has been shipped already, send me a PM.
If you want to know if your order has been shipped already, send me a PM.
Hi,
the Gainclone has landed.
I got this PCB in my Hands, its so pretty and cool, I'm overwhelmed, and the right words are missing.
Thank you!
shongi
the Gainclone has landed.
I got this PCB in my Hands, its so pretty and cool, I'm overwhelmed, and the right words are missing.
Thank you!
shongi
shunt resistor
sorry if this has already been answered but I can't find it.
I've built two gainclones with 20k stepped attenuators. I'm about to build another as a gift and wan't to use the much cheaper RS 100k pot instead.
The manual shows the connection diagram but also mentiona a "shunt" resistor.
What value would the resistor be for a 100k pot?
Where do I connect it?
Thanks a lot
sorry if this has already been answered but I can't find it.
I've built two gainclones with 20k stepped attenuators. I'm about to build another as a gift and wan't to use the much cheaper RS 100k pot instead.
The manual shows the connection diagram but also mentiona a "shunt" resistor.
What value would the resistor be for a 100k pot?
Where do I connect it?
Thanks a lot
order for Brian in Austin
Hey,
I ordered a kit last week for Brian in Austin. Can you tell me if it has shipped yet?
bugless
Hey,
I ordered a kit last week for Brian in Austin. Can you tell me if it has shipped yet?
bugless
Re: order for Brian in Austin
I was waiting for the next shipment of parts to arrive (parts for 4780 and 3875), which should have arrived today. I will work on getting the parts sorted, and the order shipped out in the next couple of days
Drop me an e-mail if you have any more questions.
--
Brian
bugless said:Hey,
I ordered a kit last week for Brian in Austin. Can you tell me if it has shipped yet?
bugless
I was waiting for the next shipment of parts to arrive (parts for 4780 and 3875), which should have arrived today. I will work on getting the parts sorted, and the order shipped out in the next couple of days
Drop me an e-mail if you have any more questions.
--
Brian
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