It is not just expensive 15", it is field coil! So I believe with much stronger magnetic field than others.
If I change it to another one - it will be GOTO 15"!
No, for this range I'm going to use 146LD. They are truly unique drivers and they deliver fantastic bass! I never ever heard so many details in bass. For orchestra and piano it is quite important.
Today I've measured and listened the result of 146LD in my half 2m LeCleach horn and get exactly what I've expected 70-400hz!
This is doesn't work for me. I've tried GOTO SG-505TT in 270Hz and decided that I don't like long horns. I hear coloration from second octave up. Shorter horn is better. So, now I'm using 400hz LeCleach for 400-1200hz.
I have 2 and ordered another 2, but than suspended my order. Now I want to be sure that they work well when TimeAligned. If not TimeAligned, I hear huge delay in bass. So now I'm using Supravox 400-2000EXC for 20-70hz. And I don't understand how I have 20hz from it, but I have it!Below 70-80hz, tapped horn will satisfy you. If you want to have less room modes in your room. Go crazy (as you already seem to be) and build two tapped horns for your room.
TH sounds heavy and too slow...may be I'll try my 5m horn again, but when I'll be ready to timealign with second DAC delay.
After all experiments, I'm fan of LeCleach short horns, so inlowsound 60hz and 200hz horn with 1" throat sounds terrible for me
Anyway, thank you for your suggestions, I'm always glad to see some other ideas. But with horns I already did a lot of experiments. I have almost all frequencies and tried everything to finally choose the best for my taste.
RAAL is best from 14k+, I believe.
I don't see any reason not to use horn from cf, but I see a lot of reasons not to use more than 2 octaves from cf. Short horns without compression is my way here. And I really love the result I have.I want to remind you, my experience has shown me, only when the correct attenuation levels, crossover slopes, correct horn implementation and alignment is reached, the horn shouting and similar artifacts disappear. Then, correct positioning in the room and the room treatment will be your concern
I hope you reach your satisfaction. You may want to spend more time on a specific and a logically laid out plan and then do less changes. Make stuff work, whatever you buy regardless of price wont be working right away without tuning them properly.
From what I have read, what you call horn coloration can be because you are pushing your horns too much. This is counter intuitive as you have a lot of channels (horns and drivers). Why are you pushing your horns down to their cf? The reason you are having more channels is so you wont be pushing your drivers and horns unnaturally. Be at least half octave above cf, preferably be an octave above.
What is specific in their work ?
Why not to do it by yourself ?
Very interesting, Kodomo, to listen to your system one day.
I'm visiting exhibition sometimes in Istanbul, are you not far from there ?
And you are welcome to my home when in Moscow!
Great!
Please, share your impressions!
Not often one can hear GOTO system!
I will do that, after my trip.
Got a pair of 505TT, So GOTO community is growing...
Well, to be honest, I can't see the necessity of 6 ways. And to add to that, the horn in the bass doesn't really add up to what's needed, infact you lose a lot of potential in the xo, especally if you want to go passive. You can save at least 2 ways if you go partly acitve. Furthermore, you don't use the bandwidth of any of the drivers, so you are wasing potential. To use passive xo leaves much more performance out with 6 ways than you would with i.e. 4 ways because there's absolutely no necessity to use that much ways since every of the component is capable of covering at least 1 more octave without any compromise. Thus said, you could also go easily go for 4 or 3 ways with even better results. Except you are only out for the 'fame' of building a 6-way.
Well, to be honest, I can't see the necessity of 6 ways. And to add to that, the horn in the bass doesn't really add up to what's needed, infact you lose a lot of potential in the xo, especally if you want to go passive. You can save at least 2 ways if you go partly acitve. Furthermore, you don't use the bandwidth of any of the drivers, so you are wasing potential. To use passive xo leaves much more performance out with 6 ways than you would with i.e. 4 ways because there's absolutely no necessity to use that much ways since every of the component is capable of covering at least 1 more octave without any compromise. Thus said, you could also go easily go for 4 or 3 ways with even better results. Except you are only out for the 'fame' of building a 6-way.
Starting with 3 ways, extending up to 8...I'm now back to 6 and for me this is optimal configuration. To add one octave to each way I'll need longer horns!
But longer horn I have - more coloration I get in higher octaves. For example, I can use 3m long horn for 146LD and use it from 50hz up to 1000hz, but 1000hz from deep 3m tube is very specific sound
Even 1000hz from quite short 270hz horn was not ok for me and I was trying to shortern my horn, so till now I was using 600hz horn for 600-1200hz and just yesterday decided to extend from 400hz to 1200hz. Horn become a little longer, but still ok. So, in this regard, I have no choice. I need to keep horns short to play 2 octaves. Also I'm using sharp low-pass filters (3rd order) to be sure that higher octaves will not come out and color sound of entire system.From another point of view, you can consider my system as 4 ways with sub and supertweeter. When I get GOTO's 15" it will be completely GOTO's idea (5way) with supertweeter. Switching off RAAL will not change the sound dramatically...it is just a little better resolution in 10khz+ range.
But I agree, that in HF one driver is actually ok to cover 1200-20khz, because 1000hz horn is very short and I don't see any problem why not to cover the whole HF range. But GOTO is offering 2 drivers for this range and their response is flat in corresponding parts of this range, so there is no way to use only one.
Last edited:
Last week I've visited Lukasz from Autotech, who is producing horns for DIYers and auditioned his system. I liked it very much and it is just 3 ways, but very clever!
HF works in very short 1000-2000hz horn and MF in much shorter version of 270Hz, so as a result - no coloration at all. Very clear and open sound!
Bass implementaion is very interesting - transmission line!
And it looks fantastic! I think, that I'm going to implement some of his design ideas in my system
HF works in very short 1000-2000hz horn and MF in much shorter version of 270Hz, so as a result - no coloration at all. Very clear and open sound!
Bass implementaion is very interesting - transmission line!
And it looks fantastic! I think, that I'm going to implement some of his design ideas in my system
Starting with 3 ways, extending up to 8...I'm now back to 6 and for me this is optimal configuration. To add one octave to each way I'll need longer horns!
But longer horn I have - more coloration I get in higher octaves. For example, I can use 3m long horn for 146LD and use it from 50hz up to 1000hz, but 1000hz from deep 3m tube is very specific sound
Well, you could easily use other types of horns, it doesn't have to be spherical horns.
Well, that's the thing I was wondering because 3rd order filters aren't exactly sharp if you are using the horn for only one octave, they are overlapping with the next driver above and below with -9dB or less difference for half of their reproduction band. I'm not saying you are doing it wrong but that's not exactly sharp xo at all for a 6-way speaker.
Edit: No, it's ofcourse -9dB or less for the WHOLE reproduction band, forgot the other end.
Well, you could use another driver?
Last edited:
Yes, floor firing bass horn - that's what I did! (I believe I've published the photo a while ago) This configuration creates an exquisite near-field listening environment that is particularly suitable for smaller listening rooms. And the mouth is much smaller because the entire are between the floor and the horn becomes the mouth. And I urge you to try 300Hz tractrix horn in the midrange. You are on the right track!
Last edited:
Yes, I remember! Your version was quite huge
I'm still trying to TimeAlign the whole system without digital things to allow myself to connect vinyl one day. I'm not sure that I need it, but still want to try to keep it in this way if possible. I have one idea, will post later when have some drawings to share.
So, now it is 6 way:
1. 14k+ RAAL Lazy Ribbon 9"
2. 5k-14 GOTO SG-16TT
3. 1.2k-5k GOTO SG-370DX in 1000hz LeCleach
4. 450-1.2k GOTO SG-570BL in 400hz LeCleach
5. 70-450hz 2xGOTO SG-146LD in 120hz half LeCleach
6. 20-70hx Supravox 400-2000EXC
Top of the line HF GOTOs just arrived, so next experiment will be to replace 16 with 180 and 370 with 3880. Both with beryllium diaphragms!
1. 14k+ RAAL Lazy Ribbon 9"
2. 5k-14 GOTO SG-16TT
3. 1.2k-5k GOTO SG-370DX in 1000hz LeCleach
4. 450-1.2k GOTO SG-570BL in 400hz LeCleach
5. 70-450hz 2xGOTO SG-146LD in 120hz half LeCleach
6. 20-70hx Supravox 400-2000EXC
Top of the line HF GOTOs just arrived, so next experiment will be to replace 16 with 180 and 370 with 3880. Both with beryllium diaphragms!
