Better look at the crossover now they are out, seems the bass drivers and in series and parallel to make 4 ohm. Then the mids and tweets in parallel to also make 4ohm.
Each bass driver is 4 ohm while the mids and tweeters are 8ohm.
Using supplied cotten bud end tooth picks to lift and locate weak areas on surround, then I use a syringe filled with glue to force the glue into the area. Works really well.
Stripping boxes down, the bottom base could be better, thinking im just going to get these remade in thicker MDF and attach speaker spikes instead.
The old speaker connector have to go, warped and just allows air to leak from them.
A more solid plinth would do no harm!
Which glue/glue kit did you use on the surrounds?
Application by syringe is ideal for this purpose.
Which glue/glue kit did you use on the surrounds?
Application by syringe is ideal for this purpose.
Comparing drivers, the goodmans is a cast chassis a real heavy weight, where as the dayton is pressed steel, light and cheap.
Enclosure for midrange and tweeter. Front panel is metal where as the enclosure is plastic, a foam ring acts as speaker wadding.
The plastic itself is thin and flexible, here I will use sound deadening material so it's more dense and less of a hollow feeling, think I may also pack it proper wadding instead of the foam ring.
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I understand that the Dayton DATS V2 is a speaker measurement system, but where do the Dayton drivers come in? I presume you are just picturing them for comparison purposes?
Replacing the tired, old foam rings (gaskets) is a good idea, as is damping the walls of the plastic enclosure. Dedshete self-adhesive bitumen damping panels would be good for the latter purpose and foam sealing tape for the former.
Dedshete Panel Standard
Gasket Sealing Strip
Would still like to know which glue you used on the speaker surrounds.
Replacing the tired, old foam rings (gaskets) is a good idea, as is damping the walls of the plastic enclosure. Dedshete self-adhesive bitumen damping panels would be good for the latter purpose and foam sealing tape for the former.
Dedshete Panel Standard
Gasket Sealing Strip
Would still like to know which glue you used on the speaker surrounds.
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Just comparing the drivers old vs modern,
One bottle 30ml genuine TANNOY correct speaker fixing glue, speaker repairs | eBay
Is what I used.
Thanks for the links!
One bottle 30ml genuine TANNOY correct speaker fixing glue, speaker repairs | eBay
Is what I used.
Thanks for the links!
Thanks for the pics! Following with interest. 🙂
The Tannoy glue looks good. For reference, I've used 'Anita's Tacky PVA Glue' with good results.
Anita's Tacky PVA Glue
I suggest damping the vibrations of the plastic midrange enclosure by applying strips of Dedshete to the outside of the enclosure.
I presume the mid enclosure contained absorbent material - was it the foam you mentioned earlier?
The Tannoy glue looks good. For reference, I've used 'Anita's Tacky PVA Glue' with good results.
Anita's Tacky PVA Glue
I suggest damping the vibrations of the plastic midrange enclosure by applying strips of Dedshete to the outside of the enclosure.
I presume the mid enclosure contained absorbent material - was it the foam you mentioned earlier?
Midrange repair
View attachment InShot_20181208_203132294.mp4
Here you can see where the glue has come away and the voice coil is slipping through the cone which was noted in the spikes measured on the dayton dat, moved the cone up glued in the space then used a cotton bud to spread the glue over the cone and coil. Left to dry, good as new!
View attachment InShot_20181208_203132294.mp4
Here you can see where the glue has come away and the voice coil is slipping through the cone which was noted in the spikes measured on the dayton dat, moved the cone up glued in the space then used a cotton bud to spread the glue over the cone and coil. Left to dry, good as new!
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Look at that gap!
Used a scalpel to remove as much of the old glue as possible, then used a syringe to squeeze the glue in, spread it evenly. I then 3d printer a plastic ring to go over the surround and used clips to spread the load and not damage the outer surround area.
You could use them as rears in a 70s inspired home cinema system.
A pair of large IMFs and a single smaller one as fronts or something along those lines.
A pair of large IMFs and a single smaller one as fronts or something along those lines.
They would make brilliant surrounding sound speakers, although I will test and use them as front main speakers once I have finish rebuilding them.
Yes it was a foam ring which fits over the midrange, i will just remove it and fill the midrange bath shape case with some acoustic wool type material
There's a possibility that the closely coupled foam ring is intended to damp the vibration of the midrange cone rather than to act like sound absorbent.
Such damping can be used to lower the Q of a driver and allow it to be used in a smaller enclosure.
Some experimentation should reveal whether or not this applies in your case.
One speaker I will leave original the other I will sound deaden and use different speaker wadding. I will use REW and do some tests see which one performs and sounds better.
If you want to try wool these are the cheapest suppliers I could find:
White Wools [3]
You can also chose the wool by breed. I think I used Massam for my T/Ls as it was the one with the longest fibres.
White Wools [3]
You can also chose the wool by breed. I think I used Massam for my T/Ls as it was the one with the longest fibres.
Thanks Charles that is a really good find! I actually have lots of wool stuffing from a previous speaker build but i will save that link for future projects, very well priced to!
Just had lots of quotes to have the speaker enclosures resprayed
looking at £150-£190 per enclosure! A little too expensive so i have decided i am just going to do it myself.
Need to fill, sand and prepare them where they have been damaged then primer. I am actually going to use something called plastidip/plastikote to finish them.
Ordered new speaker cables, stainless steel hex socket cap bolts and screws and some lovely ebony speaker spikes, should have these done before xmas to play some tunnnnesssss!
Just had lots of quotes to have the speaker enclosures resprayed
looking at £150-£190 per enclosure! A little too expensive so i have decided i am just going to do it myself.
Need to fill, sand and prepare them where they have been damaged then primer. I am actually going to use something called plastidip/plastikote to finish them.
Ordered new speaker cables, stainless steel hex socket cap bolts and screws and some lovely ebony speaker spikes, should have these done before xmas to play some tunnnnesssss!