homemodder 😉
I would like help both you and other fellow diy'ers.
Happily we share the same time zone 😀
I'm on vacation at home this week (got some walls to paint etc.
) so an hour off would be great 😀
Drop me an email with some suggestion for day and time to do these transfers. Also put in your messenger account, and I'll contact you.
I would like help both you and other fellow diy'ers.
Happily we share the same time zone 😀
I'm on vacation at home this week (got some walls to paint etc.
) so an hour off would be great 😀 Drop me an email with some suggestion for day and time to do these transfers. Also put in your messenger account, and I'll contact you.
Don
I am interested in having a look at this beast as I found some info on the net suggesting this is a excellent sounding amp. In one particular case 4 audiophiles rated it as top of the solidstate amps back in 1998. I wouldve loved taking a look at them if I lived closer but reading the brochure tells me why many techs will run away from this one. Even the biasing of the outputstage is controlled via a processor.
I hope you find someone that can fix those amps, maybe genesis themselves could have a look at them.
I am interested in having a look at this beast as I found some info on the net suggesting this is a excellent sounding amp. In one particular case 4 audiophiles rated it as top of the solidstate amps back in 1998. I wouldve loved taking a look at them if I lived closer but reading the brochure tells me why many techs will run away from this one. Even the biasing of the outputstage is controlled via a processor.
I hope you find someone that can fix those amps, maybe genesis themselves could have a look at them.
acd run down to home depot and get one of these. They save so much time when painting and they're cheap enough that you can throw them away after if you choose. I swear by these!
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100066480
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100066480
d0n 😀
I was more thinking of a bucket of paint and a stick of dynamit
Sadly dynamit is not available at local stores in Denmark - not to say any store at all.
Could you mail me one ?
I was more thinking of a bucket of paint and a stick of dynamit
Sadly dynamit is not available at local stores in Denmark - not to say any store at all.
Could you mail me one ?
Jan we could do some now if you want, and maybe later tonight, I already have your addy on my messenger from the last time I sent you some spice models. Ill send you a instant message so you can get my account details again. I have high speed wireless ISP but unfortuneatly its only high speed at some hours of the day as the signal gets distorted by all the traffic during rush hours so the best time would be 9 to 12 in the morning or 3 to 6 in afternoon.
homemodder;
Sorry but quite busy right now.
Let's do it tomorrow. Pick a time.
I have high speed connection on my stationary PC (20/8)
Sorry but quite busy right now.
Let's do it tomorrow. Pick a time.
I have high speed connection on my stationary PC (20/8)
Ok tommorrow morning or afternoon is good, I ve sent you a instant msg, and will later send an email just in case.
Have fun with the painting, I for one know how
it can be.
Have fun with the painting, I for one know how
it can be.homemodder can you post links to those websites where you found that info on the stealth? I've seen more than a few people on the net say it is a wonderful sounding amp.
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I've contacted everyone remotely connected with the amp about having it repaired. Even the designer (paul mcgowan) wants nothing to do with it. He recommended Cullen circuits for repairs but Rick Cullen refuses to work on it too.
I've called at least 20 recommended techs over the last 4-5 years and no one will touch the amp. The one tech that did agree to the repairs, ended up working on it for 6 total hours and then he made excuses for the next 4 years as to when he would be able to finish it. I was basically stuck with him and his excuses because I couldn't find another tech willing to work on it. That's why I didn't pull the amp out of his shop sooner. After 4+ years of excuses, I finally told him to just pack it up and send it back to me. It's scheduled to arrive in NY tomorrow. I will say one nice thing about him... he paid for the shipping back to me for "torturing" me for 4+ years. <--- His words.
That's why I ended up here on the DIY forum. Hoping someone here will find some sympathy for these amps and help me get them (or even just one) working.
Relegating these amps to permanent door-stop or boat anchor duty is really killing me.
---------------------------------------------------------
I've contacted everyone remotely connected with the amp about having it repaired. Even the designer (paul mcgowan) wants nothing to do with it. He recommended Cullen circuits for repairs but Rick Cullen refuses to work on it too.
I've called at least 20 recommended techs over the last 4-5 years and no one will touch the amp. The one tech that did agree to the repairs, ended up working on it for 6 total hours and then he made excuses for the next 4 years as to when he would be able to finish it. I was basically stuck with him and his excuses because I couldn't find another tech willing to work on it. That's why I didn't pull the amp out of his shop sooner. After 4+ years of excuses, I finally told him to just pack it up and send it back to me. It's scheduled to arrive in NY tomorrow. I will say one nice thing about him... he paid for the shipping back to me for "torturing" me for 4+ years. <--- His words.
That's why I ended up here on the DIY forum. Hoping someone here will find some sympathy for these amps and help me get them (or even just one) working.
Relegating these amps to permanent door-stop or boat anchor duty is really killing me.
Don Ill have to to a google search again and Im not sure what keywords I used so youll have to be patient.
Now I have to wonder why they dont want to repair it, me thinks its because of some parts used in the design is unobtainable, most probably the computer processor, its a big problem with this type of amp, the parts get discontinued and then what does one do. Something tells me their might be some problems with the biasing circuits.
As soon as ACD has the schematics up, I will take a look. If worse comes to worse maybe some sections of the amp can be left out, bypassed or a new output stage used. They sure are excellent looking, built like tanks and the power supply is awesome for the rated power.
Now I have to wonder why they dont want to repair it, me thinks its because of some parts used in the design is unobtainable, most probably the computer processor, its a big problem with this type of amp, the parts get discontinued and then what does one do. Something tells me their might be some problems with the biasing circuits.
As soon as ACD has the schematics up, I will take a look. If worse comes to worse maybe some sections of the amp can be left out, bypassed or a new output stage used. They sure are excellent looking, built like tanks and the power supply is awesome for the rated power.
Thanks HM - He did have to go outside of the USA to buy a computer chip... it was a Z88 or something like that. I forget exactly what it was called but he was able to find one.
You're right... they sure are pretty!
I was bored so I took a quick video of the amps start up procedure - The amp does check BIAS before turning itself on... so I'm thinking it may not be the problem. 😕 One issue I noticed is that the amp is supposed to "remember" bias, volume and source selection settings after you turn it off and then back on. This amp always starts up on 0 volume, the lowest bias setting (20) and the CD input. 😕
Here's a video of the other amp trying to start up. This one doesn't get past the current test.
<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://img.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v517/esop/P3010002.flv">
You're right... they sure are pretty!
I was bored so I took a quick video of the amps start up procedure - The amp does check BIAS before turning itself on... so I'm thinking it may not be the problem. 😕 One issue I noticed is that the amp is supposed to "remember" bias, volume and source selection settings after you turn it off and then back on. This amp always starts up on 0 volume, the lowest bias setting (20) and the CD input. 😕
Here's a video of the other amp trying to start up. This one doesn't get past the current test.
<embed width="448" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://img.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v517/esop/P3010002.flv">
Back in 2005 ... Scott franklin said this about my amps repairs...
I was able to bypass the relay circuits and power up the main power supply with all loads disconnected. All power supplies appear to work fine without loads. As for the failure mode, what I have found so far is that one entire bank of output FET's are shorted (8 devices total). I don't yet know what caused this catastrophic failure. These devices have inadequate heat sink grease in my opinion. There is also a blown filter cap on the driver board feeding these FET's (this cap does most of the input filtering for the driver board, so I will renew it in both channels). I have yet to power up this driver board, but it generally seems OK with static tests. The computer board is probably OK, too, but I won't know for sure until after I run some AC signal tests. I need also to test the input amplifiers (they appear to be OK with static tests). When I'm done with these initial tests I'll forward an estimate for the work. I know he also replaced a Z80 processor that was found somewhere outside the USA.
This is what another stealth owner told me about the amp.
I think the Stealths amp sound is the best I have ever heard. I have owned Krell, ML, Rowland, Futterman OTL's, Pass, and currently Threshold Sa-12e's and none compete. I have no interest in this other than from an audiophile position. If you ever get to listen to this amp you know it is special. I have had countless people in the business say this. The tech who fixed mine used it for a month to test. He said there is nothing that touches it & if there was he has never heard it and it would be very, very expensive."
I was able to bypass the relay circuits and power up the main power supply with all loads disconnected. All power supplies appear to work fine without loads. As for the failure mode, what I have found so far is that one entire bank of output FET's are shorted (8 devices total). I don't yet know what caused this catastrophic failure. These devices have inadequate heat sink grease in my opinion. There is also a blown filter cap on the driver board feeding these FET's (this cap does most of the input filtering for the driver board, so I will renew it in both channels). I have yet to power up this driver board, but it generally seems OK with static tests. The computer board is probably OK, too, but I won't know for sure until after I run some AC signal tests. I need also to test the input amplifiers (they appear to be OK with static tests). When I'm done with these initial tests I'll forward an estimate for the work. I know he also replaced a Z80 processor that was found somewhere outside the USA.
This is what another stealth owner told me about the amp.
I think the Stealths amp sound is the best I have ever heard. I have owned Krell, ML, Rowland, Futterman OTL's, Pass, and currently Threshold Sa-12e's and none compete. I have no interest in this other than from an audiophile position. If you ever get to listen to this amp you know it is special. I have had countless people in the business say this. The tech who fixed mine used it for a month to test. He said there is nothing that touches it & if there was he has never heard it and it would be very, very expensive."
Strange OPS, paralleled "rush pair" MOSFET driver with local
nested FB to the rush's. A good possibility this is another
"non-switching" class B, the reason it's sound is so highly acclaimed.
Must simulate it.. Very different.. 🙂
OS
nested FB to the rush's. A good possibility this is another
"non-switching" class B, the reason it's sound is so highly acclaimed.
Must simulate it.. Very different.. 🙂
OS
So... is there a tech within a 4-6 hour drive of Albany NY who would be interested in repairing one of these amps for me?
Too bad , I used to live on central ave. in albany, till I drove here.
you might be able to repair these yourself. If any of the 8 amps
are in fault mode , this will trip the protection, so it is likely
that many of the amps still operate properly.
If you remove all the amps (they have connnectors)except for 2
(1 left/1 right) you might be able to swap out (finding the good/
bad ones) A modular design has that advantage.
OS
you might be able to repair these yourself. If any of the 8 amps
are in fault mode , this will trip the protection, so it is likely
that many of the amps still operate properly.
If you remove all the amps (they have connnectors)except for 2
(1 left/1 right) you might be able to swap out (finding the good/
bad ones) A modular design has that advantage.
OS
Hi, Ostripper,
Could it be a mis-drawn component? If Q22-Q23 are both PNP, making it a simple differential system, Q15 and R+D? is the current mirror, giving output to drive Q16.
ostripper central ave is a busy place! Lake electronics is still there.
If wires weren't soldered to the boards, I could simply unplug the boards and swap them. I looked and saw all boards have many wires soldered to them. Honestly, I couldn't desolder/solder to save my life. I can never get the solder to stick. It just rolls off. I've tried flux and different solders but never had luck. That's one thing I must leave to the professionals.
I could cut each wire in the center, strip the covering, twist the 2 wires together and wrap the bare connection in electrical tape. It would probably work but would be a real shame to swap a board like that on an amp like this!
I realize this is the "do it yourself" forum but this repair is out of my league.
So, I'm temporarily changing the name of the forum to the "do it for me" form! LOL! 😀
Seriously though, Is anyone in the north east interested in a project? 😕 I'm patient and have gobs of money.
😱 
If wires weren't soldered to the boards, I could simply unplug the boards and swap them. I looked and saw all boards have many wires soldered to them. Honestly, I couldn't desolder/solder to save my life. I can never get the solder to stick. It just rolls off. I've tried flux and different solders but never had luck. That's one thing I must leave to the professionals.
I could cut each wire in the center, strip the covering, twist the 2 wires together and wrap the bare connection in electrical tape. It would probably work but would be a real shame to swap a board like that on an amp like this!
I realize this is the "do it yourself" forum but this repair is out of my league.
So, I'm temporarily changing the name of the forum to the "do it for me" form! LOL! 😀
Seriously though, Is anyone in the north east interested in a project? 😕 I'm patient and have gobs of money.
😱
Hi Don
Had a look at the schematics, complicated but not that bad.
Its hard to believe you cant find someone to work on it, pity I live too far away otherwise I would give it a bash.
Good luck, youll find a tech sooner or later.
Alex
Had a look at the schematics, complicated but not that bad.
Its hard to believe you cant find someone to work on it, pity I live too far away otherwise I would give it a bash.
Good luck, youll find a tech sooner or later.
Alex