GC passive pre-amp dissapointment

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Hi Carlos

"You will soon find out that it's very easy to make much better than the Nad C350 preamp seccion."

That is very much what i am hoping!!!!

OK, look i know the NAD is no where near top dollar hifi, for the price i payed (less than half retail price) it was reasonable.

What is interesting to me is that no matter how lacking in sophistication the NAD pre section is, it is far better than a passive one. And there are loads of people on this forum using either just a pot or switched attenuator. Gain clones need an active pre that is for sure, with a passive the sound has so much less athority and gets muddled by compliacted music.

I only hope that Nuuk psu and buffer stage can take things a stage further.

fil
 
Afraid there also might be a few more questions about assembley.

No problems Fil, that's what Carlos is here for! :D Seriously, I am happy to answer any questions.

when we refer to your buffer, are we talking about the last version (discrete) or the classA biased opamps?

Andrew, in the context of this thread we are talking about the discrete, three-transistor buffer.

I only hope that Nuuk psu and buffer stage can take things a stage further.

Faith can move mountains (and seriously improve your listening experience). :att'n:
 
There are passive preamps and there are passive preamps.
I did a side by side comparison of a basic Alps 10K pot and another 50K pot. My friend and myself definately found the little Alps 10K to sound better than the 50k. Infact we agreed that it sounded better than the basic JTL ECC88 buffer, and a Bride of Zen preamp. The only thing that bettered it was a little 5687 valve preamp, which sounded simply great and full on.
Your passive preamp may be just a poor implementation. Quality of parts becomes very critical in such a simple setup.

The bipolar transistor buffer given on Nuuks site is a fine performer for it simplicity. Very good PSRR, and the nearest thing to a valve sound I have come across. Its tone can be tuned by altering the bottom transistors bias resistor.

Shoog
 
No its not the one I built, but basically its very similar.
Heres the one I built,

http://www.diyparadise.com/simplepreamp.html

Simpler and with valve rectification. I didn't use a choke because I ran out of space. Mine is crammed into a dead PC powersupply case (thats including the two transformers it took). I had to go DC with the heaters because the 5687 like to hum. I daren't even contemplate taking this one apart to do any more work (its a mess of wires in there), still sounds fantastic and cost me about €100.00 to build.

Shoog
 
filholder said:
OK, look i know the NAD is no where near top dollar hifi, for the price i payed (less than half retail price) it was reasonable.

I know the Nad C370 very well, the next model up in the range.
What limits it's performance the most is the pre.
But it's no exception, that's the problem of most integrated amps, independent of the price.;)
 
Shoog said:
My friend and myself definately found the little Alps 10K to sound better than the 50k.

Naturally.
You should not use more than 10k for a passive pre.
The 10k pot could even be a cheap one, it could still sound better.
Sometimes it's not a case of using fancy components, it's just a case of picking the right values for the right job.
 
Some CD players will complain with a 10K load (though not many these days). The 50K pot was an afterthought on the Bride of Zen, it was simply taken off the pot as an extra output.
I stand by the statement that the quality of the components will have a bigger effect on the sound in a passive than in an active. I also agree that the most critical factor is the ohmic value of the pot.

Shoog
 
Shoog said:
Some CD players will complain with a 10K load (though not many these days). The 50K pot was an afterthought on the Bride of Zen, it was simply taken off the pot as an extra output.
I stand by the statement that the quality of the components will have a bigger effect on the sound in a passive than in an active. I also agree that the most critical factor is the ohmic value of the pot.

Shoog

Open the CDP and change the output stage to low impedance.
That alone makes a huge improvement.;)
 
My problem is that my whole setup is used for TV and films etc. so i need it to be remote controlled really. Well with my missus involved it is not even a option really no remote no go. So i bought the Lite Audio remote board since it was very cheap used good realys to control the input and had a Alps pot on. All for about £30 delivered. Now seems the pot might be a big problem, it is 100k and in the passive pre i have got i havent got room for anything else.

Is there now way to lower the value? Alps dont do the same one in the right value. I can get a 10k linear but i imagine that if i did the law faking resistor on that it would make the value even lower.

Another mess i have got myself into.

Fil
 
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