The CCS Mosfets Vgs is the oneI refer to. I.e. Rightmost face to face Mosfets.
P.S. It works like a clock with the current you got. You will always check the drop across the R1 you calculated for use. IR1=ICCS=VdropR1/R1. That will be your experimental confirmation if you look to alter the current for any use, or relax a bit some excess if your leds batch is high and/or Mosfets batch Vgs low.
Did you notice any changes in its performance after enough days BTW? Or different hot touching on Mosfets? Any noises etc?
Very little change. There is maybe, just maybe, even a bit more nuance.
If anything it is noticable in voices where the sense of being right in front of the singer has become absolutely uncanny.
No noises, no temperature drift, no smoke.
The stepped attenuator from Taiwan is pretty amazing for a total of $25 with shipping.
If anything it is noticable in voices where the sense of being right in front of the singer has become absolutely uncanny.
No noises, no temperature drift, no smoke.
The stepped attenuator from Taiwan is pretty amazing for a total of $25 with shipping.
OK then, roughly how many hours we must write on the pdf is that it takes so to settle in your learned opinion? Those must be play hours or just power on is enough?
For me it has been on "non-stop" for about ten days, so 240 hours.
I have turned it off to change from the motorized pot to the stepped attenuator and for swapping out some LEDs, but other than that my DCB1 has been playing music uninterrupted. When I'm not in the room the CDs are on "repeat - play" at minimal volume. When I have a chance to listen I play whatever I fancy at the time and turn up the volume.
The change has not been all that great: 88.9% at one hour - 99.8% at 200 hours, how about that?
Do these machines age like we do? And I know the answer is: fortunately yes! Oxidation, radiation and gravity ultimately win out.
I have turned it off to change from the motorized pot to the stepped attenuator and for swapping out some LEDs, but other than that my DCB1 has been playing music uninterrupted. When I'm not in the room the CDs are on "repeat - play" at minimal volume. When I have a chance to listen I play whatever I fancy at the time and turn up the volume.
The change has not been all that great: 88.9% at one hour - 99.8% at 200 hours, how about that?
Do these machines age like we do? And I know the answer is: fortunately yes! Oxidation, radiation and gravity ultimately win out.
So you did run the most thorough test from all the protos till now. Your contribution was very detailed. I guess we owe you a thanks.
48hours must be ample play time for settling and periodic checks for heat, for some component looking like to go bad, etc. We had no semiconductor failures reported from anybody yet though. Not even brown resistors. That is my experience too but I wanted to hear other opinions first.
48hours must be ample play time for settling and periodic checks for heat, for some component looking like to go bad, etc. We had no semiconductor failures reported from anybody yet though. Not even brown resistors. That is my experience too but I wanted to hear other opinions first.
Uriah,
I want to build a balanced Mesmerize. How much for a balanced set of LDRs?
Thanks,
Bill
It sure is a nice piece of gear! In my budget system, I use a PC as source, with a DIYparadise USB dac, Lightspeed clone, Tripath TA2020 and FR speakers (Lotus from the Spawn family). I have a long interconnect from the Lightspeed to the Tripath amp, about 5m (15ft). I connected this buffer right after the Lightspeed, and before the long interconnect. It has restored some lost detail, well a lot of detail in fact. It also lifted the volume but I think that is due to better impedance matching as there is no gain as I understand it.
It was sounding a bit edgy at first, but after a few hours it started to come good. The PCB had been powered up approx 15 hours with no music before this though. I used carbon resistors where specified, and low ESR caps, but no boutique parts as yet. The other reason I was interested in this board is that my dac uses +12V and +18V DC supplies, and it appears that this PCB could accomodate that without too much trouble. (I will wait for the GB to try that).
Very happy camper here...this is the best quality I have ever heard out of this system. I thought it was pretty good before, but now it's better 🙂 Sure puts a smile on my face.
Thanks again for sharing all your hard work Salas, Tea-bag and CRT. I really appreciate what you are doing.
It was sounding a bit edgy at first, but after a few hours it started to come good. The PCB had been powered up approx 15 hours with no music before this though. I used carbon resistors where specified, and low ESR caps, but no boutique parts as yet. The other reason I was interested in this board is that my dac uses +12V and +18V DC supplies, and it appears that this PCB could accomodate that without too much trouble. (I will wait for the GB to try that).
Very happy camper here...this is the best quality I have ever heard out of this system. I thought it was pretty good before, but now it's better 🙂 Sure puts a smile on my face.
Thanks again for sharing all your hard work Salas, Tea-bag and CRT. I really appreciate what you are doing.
Salas,Any news from the non US late proto builders yet? What's up guys?
I will have my Hypnotize up and running this weekend at which point I will report - so far only the LED string has given a problem.
balanced topology relies absolutely on a precise match of impedances between the Hot and Cold lines.
How do you intend using a pair of Mesmerize to achieve this precise matching?
You are welcome. Good soldering BTW. Enjoy!
Its nice it can improve the Lightspeed. Many were using it straight as a passive pre, but as you saw, still rules apply, and in some configurations, the signal power loss is tangible without a buffer. Also nice that it can do enough with plain vanilla components. Your most influential will be the shunt out 100uF capacitors and the audio side 220Rs and 220ks. Also I see nobody uses coaxial signal cable for the runs from DCB1S to RCAs. Try the thinner RG type coax available. In some environments you will appreciate it.
Ian, I like pic3 and 5.
The pic3 makes the unit look kinda mean, and the system picture looks very DIY! awesome.😉
means you have not read Doug Self, nor Walt Jung, nor Jensen, nor the many others that tell us how to implement balanced topology.