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GB for DC coupled B1 buffer with shunt PSUs

You can add a third CCS resistor using the spare holes. If you leave the legs on the underside slightly long, you can then add a fourth CCS resistor.

As you increase the CCS current, both the CCS FET and the Shunt FET dissipate more heat. You may need bigger heatsinks.
 
Is there a good way to hot rod the mezmerize boards? I know there are a few significant differences in what the board accommodates, (number of PSU caps, rectifiers, etc.) but I'm sure someone has done it around here?!

you can put in standard to-220 rectifiers as well, just cover them with silicon goop to they don't short each other.
Then replace first 100uf cap with smaller film cap, then as Andrew's piece, your done.
 
I would use these resistors -
ERG-2SJ330A Panasonic Electronic Components Metal Oxide Resistors
It's the lead diameter that might be probelmatic, but you can just solder on a clipped resistor lead to the holes are run any 5W if you need too.

This is not a real estate issue with 100uf cap , the led bypass can be changed for subjectively better sound in testing.

Any Cap that will fit, at 4700uf or larger should do.
 
I have some of those Wima MKP2s in my spare parts bin I think. Maybe even the 0.22uF. (It's starting to get scary how much stuff I have in the spare parts bin actually.) I don't think they're rated for as high a voltage as the ones that you provide in the hot rod kit but likely more than enough for what's needed I presume. If I can find some other values in the 0.1 to 1.0 range, is there any reason to choose one over the other? My guess is that it won't make much difference as a bypass cap.

Back on topic, I don't think I ever did post pics of the build from this GB. So... here it is:

6917417926_27467fe868.jpg
 
Hi, I have Wima MKS2-XL in de rare and largest value 22 uF 16V in 5 mm pitch for that purpose. Yes we are talking about film caps here ! They perform very well but they're not the cheapest you can find. They're not MKP but they are way better than electrolytic caps and they are small.
 
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Its a juggling act between filtering Vref noise uf value, frequency response and THD of the filtering cap. In this one due to no gain, ccs, leds Vref, i.e no real noise intrusion, people opted for mild film cap filtering tone by majority. Nothing's wrong to try though.
 
Okay, Group Buy is now open again for DCB1 boards. (BIB boards as well)

Group Buy ends June 17th 2012. You must pay by then to assure you get parts.
They generally run out quick, and I don't stock many extras.

The Paypal address (please don't post here) is on the spreadsheet cell I1. Prices have been added (and are the same)
PLEASE MAKE SURE:
1 - You add Diyaudioname to the Paypal Notes
2 - You list all all of the parts you need, including shipping to Paypal Notes.

Failure to do so, I now just refund the the payment to get your attention.

Let me know if there are any questions.
__________________
 
I have ordered a kit, assuming that a board is included, as on the parts list for the kit in Teabag's blog. (second to last item on the list)

I notice in the spreadsheet, however, that some people are ordering, for example, two kits and two boards. Do they realize that they are going to receive four boards and two sets of parts and the people ordering one kit and one board will receive two boards and one set of parts!
If they are going to build a balanced unit they will need to order two kits and no extra boards.

Or have I got it wrong and the board is not included in the kit?
 
The board is not included in the kit. It's added as supplement to it, for people who may have a hard time ordering all that stuff on there own.

So you owe an additional $15. Please mark payment for the board on it as well.


Sorry for the confusion.