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GB F5X Amp final build Cases

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#101
> Making the heat sink assembly longer means that the AUX transformer on the rear bracket will not fit.

Fully correct.

Let me show you what Solution (C) looks like, before you decide.
It is for me a much better solution.
And I do want you to have a deserving case to build the amp with.


Patrick

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#102
Here is my DIY solution for the Cap Mx heatsink with new tapped holes and modified extender plate with aux transformer opening. Just to inform other GB members if somebody needs ideas.
 

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#104
One more mistake, unfortunately.
I vaguely remember that I also have this on my own example.

The two important holes for holding the MOSFETS on the regulator heat sink are OK.
But there us a mismatch for the other two mounting holes.

Two simple solution :

1) Just use a female/female standoff to hold the height of the PCB while soldering the MOSFETs.
After that the PCB is held only by the MOSFETs.
But since there is no real mechanical load, this is just fine.
No machining required.

2)If you have good mechanical skills, then re-tapping two M3 holes should also not be a great challenge.


Again my apologies,
Patrick

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  • F5X GB3 Workaround 4.jpg
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#105
Morde DIY (a)
soldersober DIY (a) or better even please post part number for M3-M4 thingy
s610adam DIY (a) - I'm also fine getting the adaptors with all the other fun stuff to order.

And I'm still blown away by how nice it is to get to build this F5X 🙂
 
#112
In addition to the Cap Mx new tapped holes that I showed earlier, I shortened the Cap Mx standoffs by 5mm to get more room between the sink and the top cover. Cap Mx PCBs are resting on 10mm standoffs and the Mosfets. I did not make new tapped holes for the standoffs.

Protection PCB’s to-220 devices are floating in the air and I’ve put some kapton tape for insulation between the devices and the front panel. I noticed that they barely even get warm with my choise of relays. I will fix this eventually with the M4/M3 adaptor screws.
 
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