I just use some heavy duty wire for the power and output and then shielded cable for the input... but if you want suggestions on specific brands and silver stuff, then I suggest you go to the F5 listening impression thread. 😉
I just use some heavy duty wire for the power and output and then shielded cable for the input... but if you want suggestions on specific brands and silver stuff, then I suggest you go to the F5 listening impression thread. 😉
Hi
Will do, I've read that thread but I cant remember reading any wire related info. I'll go there now and post the question
Thanks
For Power, I used 14ga. stranded, different colors for + / - / G.
Signal, I used solid 20Ga. silver with Teflon insulation. No hum or buzz at all.
RCA jacks insulated from grounded case.
IMPORTANT. keep input signal wires far away from output signal wires, or you'll get feedback.
Ron
Signal, I used solid 20Ga. silver with Teflon insulation. No hum or buzz at all.
RCA jacks insulated from grounded case.
IMPORTANT. keep input signal wires far away from output signal wires, or you'll get feedback.
Ron
For Power, I used 14ga. stranded, different colors for + / - / G.
Signal, I used solid 20Ga. silver with Teflon insulation. No hum or buzz at all.
RCA jacks insulated from grounded case.
IMPORTANT. keep input signal wires far away from output signal wires, or you'll get feedback.
Ron
Thanks Ron 🙂
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IMPORTANT. keep input signal wires far away from output signal wires, or you'll get feedback.
Ron
😎 Thanks for the tip Ron! moved my speaker wire an inch further away from the signal (about as far away as i can go) and it got rid of my hum and buzz (that I thought was oscillating). So shes finally quiet, and sounding great (bonus: runs MUCH cooler, too!)
Cviller,
i received your - as usual - magnificent boards today.
Thank you for your work and promptness.
They will be fully used in a cascoded +/-35v; dual sk1530/sj201 pairs.
i received your - as usual - magnificent boards today.
Thank you for your work and promptness.
They will be fully used in a cascoded +/-35v; dual sk1530/sj201 pairs.
😎 Thanks for the tip Ron! moved my speaker wire an inch further away from the signal (about as far away as i can go) and it got rid of my hum and buzz (that I thought was oscillating). So shes finally quiet, and sounding great (bonus: runs MUCH cooler, too!)

Glad to hear it. (pun intended) Don't forget to readjust the bias after a couple of weeks of use. Although mine didn't drift very much at all!
The combo F5 and Thors are exacting! Details plus!
Ron
Glad to hear it. (pun intended) Don't forget to readjust the bias after a couple of weeks of use. Although mine didn't drift very much at all!
The combo F5 and Thors are exacting! Details plus!
Ron
yep, I hit that point, and the bias did drift pretty far. I'll recheck the bias now that there's no feedback. I'm pretty bad at describing sound, so bare with me. When I listen, the words that come to mind are "open, transparent, dynamic and effortless". I'm finally at the point where I can listen to music without any fatigue. Although not the most efficient, the thors really hold there own. I can crank it as loud as I want, and at about 5/8 volume, it starts to break up a little bit (I suspect this is due to my preamp having too high of gain). This is typically not a problem, since 3/8s is about the magic spot for me.
The thor/F5 combo has gobs of bass (enough that I haven't thought of having a subwoofer), and a tingly midrange I've never experienced before. No more shrill highs, no more bloated bass. Definitely slowed upgraditus, I'm finally enjoying all my music.
Note: I blew through midrange consumer gear, and this is my first "high end" system. My DIY builds always blow me away, where the midrange gear is just "yeah, sounds decent". Needless to say, I'm hooked😀
Boards arrived today...really tasty 
Just need to figure out how my casing and wiring layout will work and it'll be soldering time

Just need to figure out how my casing and wiring layout will work and it'll be soldering time
Great - I was just about to answer. I have been busy running the Bay to Breakers run today! 😀
Btw, the size is 190x45 mm and the hole spacing between the fets are 40-80-40 mm.
Btw, the size is 190x45 mm and the hole spacing between the fets are 40-80-40 mm.
Hope your not to sore after your run. I've placed an order for 4 F5 and 2 P/s boards. Ordered extra F5 pcb's just in case I have probs like Renron who's finished amp looks the business! I've bookmarked that page so I can use his as a referance for my build.
Ron were did you get the power switch I want one for my F5?
Ron were did you get the power switch I want one for my F5?
Marra,
Thanks for the complements, I'm going to change out the "Rs" and turn down the Blue lights somewhat, I love the blue and it looks cool, but a bit too bright.
I hope you don't need of the extra boards like I did. I'm a newbie at electronics. And mess up all the time. 😱
Here's a link to that switch. It's a 120V, and there is NO resistor in place for the blue LED. You HAVE to install the resistor your self or the LED is Toast!
MP0045/1E2BL012 Bulgin Pushbutton Switches
Ron
Thanks for the complements, I'm going to change out the "Rs" and turn down the Blue lights somewhat, I love the blue and it looks cool, but a bit too bright.
I hope you don't need of the extra boards like I did. I'm a newbie at electronics. And mess up all the time. 😱
Here's a link to that switch. It's a 120V, and there is NO resistor in place for the blue LED. You HAVE to install the resistor your self or the LED is Toast!
MP0045/1E2BL012 Bulgin Pushbutton Switches
Ron
Hi
I will be using Fairchilds in my F5-build and I'm having a few problems locating TO-3P thermal pads. Can I use TO-247s?
Can anyone recommend a pad I can purchase via Digikey?
Thanks a lot!
I will be using Fairchilds in my F5-build and I'm having a few problems locating TO-3P thermal pads. Can I use TO-247s?
Can anyone recommend a pad I can purchase via Digikey?
Thanks a lot!
TO-3P's are as far as I can remember very similar to the TO-247, but only with the corners cut off, so you should be fine with TO-247 pads. I don't have a dk number though.
I got some mica TO3s off Flea-Bay for $5 / 50 free shipping. Look around
Ron
Thanks Ron, I was just trying to make up an order with Digikey to avoid paying postage.
TO-218/TO-3P TRANSISTOR, INSULATING KIT...Lot of 20 on eBay (end time 16-Jun-10 22:44:24 BST)
Not such a good deal, but are the specs ok?
Thanks
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