The longer the wire the better quality you need. Buy expensive speaker cables and interconnects before you start wiring the amp with gold. 😀
Thanks Chris...
What about the shield on the input wiring?
Do we hook it up? and if so which end?
What about the shield on the input wiring?
Do we hook it up? and if so which end?
If you want to use shielded cable, both ends must be connected - otherwise you have just made an antenna! 😉
Here is a picture of how I prefer to wire the beast:
http://viller.eu/audio/2009jan_gbf5/P1070474_wiring1.jpg
You can also make a more dedicated star ground if you like. Since this amp goes high in frequency you should try to keep inputs and outputs away from each other.
If you want to discuss cables more in detail, I'm afraid you have to join a thread somewhere else that deal with the topic - I don't mind to have the discussion here on the thread, but I just doubt you'll get many replies... 😉
Here is a picture of how I prefer to wire the beast:
http://viller.eu/audio/2009jan_gbf5/P1070474_wiring1.jpg
You can also make a more dedicated star ground if you like. Since this amp goes high in frequency you should try to keep inputs and outputs away from each other.
If you want to discuss cables more in detail, I'm afraid you have to join a thread somewhere else that deal with the topic - I don't mind to have the discussion here on the thread, but I just doubt you'll get many replies... 😉
Rtate, if your ordering from Parts Connexion,
I would go twisted Kimber TCSS for signal input, and use two pieces of it per output, or their 15ga wire I think would be fine.
I use mil spec teflon for power supply 16ga or less.
I would go twisted Kimber TCSS for signal input, and use two pieces of it per output, or their 15ga wire I think would be fine.
I use mil spec teflon for power supply 16ga or less.
Thanks Guys..
I was going to post in the Pass lab F5 builders forum , but they seem to be off on a tangent that is pretty technical and I don't want to interrupt...
I will be ordering from Parts connexion..
they are just down the street from me 😀
I was going to post in the Pass lab F5 builders forum , but they seem to be off on a tangent that is pretty technical and I don't want to interrupt...
I will be ordering from Parts connexion..
they are just down the street from me 😀
And one more Question...
If I wanted to use the IR/Vishay output devices, do I have to make any adjustments to the original resistor values or set-up figures stated here??
If I wanted to use the IR/Vishay output devices, do I have to make any adjustments to the original resistor values or set-up figures stated here??
If I wanted to use the IR/Vishay output devices, do I have to make any adjustments to the original resistor values or set-up figures stated here??
The IR parts do not measure as good as the fairchild, but they are drop in replacements in this amp - not adjustment besides bias is needed.
Christian,
Your Plywood special F5 had the IR Mosfets right? It sounded very good to me!
Still trying to figure out how I killed mine the second time.................
Ron
Your Plywood special F5 had the IR Mosfets right? It sounded very good to me!
Still trying to figure out how I killed mine the second time.................

Ron
Yes, mine has IR because I bought 100pcs of both n and p channel a few years ago. 😉
What happened to your amp?
What happened to your amp?
If I wanted to use the IR/Vishay output devices, do I have to make any adjustments to the original resistor values or set-up figures stated here??
You will have to readjust the bias pots, however.
If you use Lateral MOSFETs (2sk1058/2sj162)you have to change the value of the feedback resistors since they have lower gm.
I happened to my Amp!
🙂
Sometimes the price we pay for learning the hard way.
I had connected the power supply (nice board BTW) incorrectly and fried at least 4 of my rail capacitors, also the beautiful isolator pads that I got from Tinitus, Yep, killed them too. Shorted out to ground and took out the TX transitors / one or two resistors and at least one of the variable pots.
At this point I'm concidering just starting over completely....again.
I'm having fun and that's the important part, right?
just in case, got any more boards available? (half joking)
I looked for you later at BA3 before the bar closed to buy you one more round. Found you with Nelson just as I was leaving. I still owe you one!
.
Always good to meet a new friend.
Ron
🙂
Sometimes the price we pay for learning the hard way.
I had connected the power supply (nice board BTW) incorrectly and fried at least 4 of my rail capacitors, also the beautiful isolator pads that I got from Tinitus, Yep, killed them too. Shorted out to ground and took out the TX transitors / one or two resistors and at least one of the variable pots.
At this point I'm concidering just starting over completely....again.
I'm having fun and that's the important part, right?
just in case, got any more boards available? (half joking)
I looked for you later at BA3 before the bar closed to buy you one more round. Found you with Nelson just as I was leaving. I still owe you one!
.

Ron
I have just about aquired all the necessary parts to start my project, all I need now is the internal wire for the amp.
I am curious as to what the group is using for the different connections..
What quality and gauge for:
1)DC supply wires
2)signal input wire
3)output wire to the binding posts
I have ordered premium parts like riken and caddock resistors so I don't want to skimp on the interconnect wire!!!
So what's every one using??
Hi,
I started in DIY audio by building interconnects and power cords. My favorite is the 28gauge cotton covered silver wire by either Jupiter (partsconnexion) or VH audio brand (or just make your own, but much easier to buy). I've also put together gold wire interconnects but that was when gold was under $300 and it was still very expensive, but it does have a very rich warm sound compared to silver. For internal amp wiring I used 17g flat silver wire from ccsilver which you can keep bare if you dare or use cotton sleeving.
Pure Silver, Fine 9999 and 999 wire
and 20g for speaker wire with cotton or silk sleeves from vt4c which also sells a silver panel mount fRCA.
Audio Catalog
Garrett
paypal sent
Hello Chris,
I have just send you through pay pal the payment for one full set of F5 (2 F5 PCB + 1 PSU + 2 Rectifier board)
Thanks!
CJ
Hello Chris,
I have just send you through pay pal the payment for one full set of F5 (2 F5 PCB + 1 PSU + 2 Rectifier board)
Thanks!
CJ
Chris, I can't seem to find a value for the resistor for the LED(R35)
Could you please give me a value.
As for the LED is there a part number recommended or a current rating to use?
Thanks again 🙂
Could you please give me a value.
As for the LED is there a part number recommended or a current rating to use?
Thanks again 🙂
Should I assume that the LED's are 24vdc??
You could once. Very bright and very short lived.........it's a terrible way for an LED to die.

Only if you have 7 or 8 of them in series. LOL
Normal Blue LEDs are about 3V - 3.4V and 20mA - 30mA like Christian said. Use the "forward volatage" as a reference and use a LED voltage calculator for your resistor value. Resistor can go on either the + or - side.
Start with a larger resistor than what you think you want and you can always go smaller if it's not bright enough.
Ron
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