Jamh,
How is the sound with the Black Gate 1000uF caps compared to the 1500uF Panasonic FC cap? Have you (or anyone else) tried the Panasonic FC with a Film & Foil bypass cap (Audio Note, Theta, Sonicap, etc) ? Just want to know if I should anty-up or not 😀
"I built my 3rd Brian GT amp in an all aluminum case" - Where are the pics??? 🙂
BTW, Has anyone tried the TANTALUM Film Resistors by Audio Note since the Riken resistors are out ( Brian..... 😉 )
How is the sound with the Black Gate 1000uF caps compared to the 1500uF Panasonic FC cap? Have you (or anyone else) tried the Panasonic FC with a Film & Foil bypass cap (Audio Note, Theta, Sonicap, etc) ? Just want to know if I should anty-up or not 😀
"I built my 3rd Brian GT amp in an all aluminum case" - Where are the pics??? 🙂
BTW, Has anyone tried the TANTALUM Film Resistors by Audio Note since the Riken resistors are out ( Brian..... 😉 )
Found Peter's "Cap Review" -
"I did comparison test today between Panasonic FC, Nichicon Muse and BG STD.
Panasonic sounded pretty well overall. Comparing to BG they didn't have the extention in highs, that air that some like. Also, the bass was much better with BG (the punch). However, BG seemed to be more etched and careful system maching is required in order to avoid excessive brightness. BG were more direct, while Panasonic sounded somewhat laid back and recessed. But one can listen for hours to Panasonics and not get tired. With BG it's a mixed bag. They might impress initially but later _may_ become fatiguing. But all three of us, listening, preferred BG by quite a margin. Which doesn't mean Panasonics are not good. They are actually very good and some might actually prefer them.
Now, regarding Nichicon Muse, we didn't like them at all. They were too laid back and not involving at all, almost like a curtain was thrown over the soundstage. I much more preferred Panasonics, Nichicons were laid back even more than Panasonics and somehow were lacking any presence."
"I did comparison test today between Panasonic FC, Nichicon Muse and BG STD.
Panasonic sounded pretty well overall. Comparing to BG they didn't have the extention in highs, that air that some like. Also, the bass was much better with BG (the punch). However, BG seemed to be more etched and careful system maching is required in order to avoid excessive brightness. BG were more direct, while Panasonic sounded somewhat laid back and recessed. But one can listen for hours to Panasonics and not get tired. With BG it's a mixed bag. They might impress initially but later _may_ become fatiguing. But all three of us, listening, preferred BG by quite a margin. Which doesn't mean Panasonics are not good. They are actually very good and some might actually prefer them.
Now, regarding Nichicon Muse, we didn't like them at all. They were too laid back and not involving at all, almost like a curtain was thrown over the soundstage. I much more preferred Panasonics, Nichicons were laid back even more than Panasonics and somehow were lacking any presence."
Jamh said:
Jam,
You need to use a 3A slow blow, as the inrush currents will kill the fast blow fuse. Try the slow blow fuse, and you shouldn't have anymore problems.
--
Brian
Re:
"How is the sound with the Black Gate 1000uF caps compared to the 1500uF Panasonic FC cap?"
The amp sounds fantastic. The earlier versions did use panasonic FC caps, but that is not the only difference. I'm using Riken resistors and a very expensive gold plated 680 ohm res that I dug out at Angela. All in all, the new amp does much better in the bass area, more authority (or whatever..). The highs are more extended too. I'll post pictures this weekend when I get home.
"How is the sound with the Black Gate 1000uF caps compared to the 1500uF Panasonic FC cap?"
The amp sounds fantastic. The earlier versions did use panasonic FC caps, but that is not the only difference. I'm using Riken resistors and a very expensive gold plated 680 ohm res that I dug out at Angela. All in all, the new amp does much better in the bass area, more authority (or whatever..). The highs are more extended too. I'll post pictures this weekend when I get home.
Evidently Brian's design is not unique in its need for an input source... fired it up tonight and NOTHING!
Checked fuse - OK
Check for heat - smoke - fire - CHECK
Check preamp for selected source - OK
Check power strip - OK
AC Power - 118VAC - CHECK
Check for heat - smoke - fire - CHECK
DC - 35VDC -CHECK
Turn up - Snap -Crackle - Buzz - NOT OK
Check for heat - smoke - fire - CHECK
Wife "That doesn't sound good". - CHECK
Double check interconnects - WTF???
CD- player plugged into TV - NO GOOD
Check for heat - smoke - fire - CHECK
Connect CD to preamp - CHECK
Power up - CHECK
...
The Doors! Beautiful MUSIC! Cool!
Yipee Fantastic Outstanding !
Sings like a bird! A little light on the bass but very, very nice!
I am ready for the kilowatt version!
Bring it on!
Checked fuse - OK
Check for heat - smoke - fire - CHECK
Check preamp for selected source - OK
Check power strip - OK
AC Power - 118VAC - CHECK
Check for heat - smoke - fire - CHECK
DC - 35VDC -CHECK
Turn up - Snap -Crackle - Buzz - NOT OK
Check for heat - smoke - fire - CHECK
Wife "That doesn't sound good". - CHECK
Double check interconnects - WTF???
CD- player plugged into TV - NO GOOD
Check for heat - smoke - fire - CHECK
Connect CD to preamp - CHECK
Power up - CHECK
...
The Doors! Beautiful MUSIC! Cool!
Yipee Fantastic Outstanding !
Sings like a bird! A little light on the bass but very, very nice!
I am ready for the kilowatt version!
Bring it on!
Attachments
Hey, you've got sound, i've still got negative 30vdc on my outputs, with no detectiable shorts between - rail and speaker out. 🙁 i just ordered a bunch of new chips though, hopefully that'll help
-Matthew K. Olson
-Matthew K. Olson
Gainclone with Aksa GK-1 preamp problems
Folks,
Can anyone tell me what is going on?
I put the Gainclone kit together with a 25+25 Toroid, tested all the voltages, etc and -
went from A Marantz 63se (with in built volume control) to the Gainclone amp to speakers. Sounds very good, but extremely loud to the point that I cannot go above 3 levels on the Marantz....way too loud.
I then went from the CD player to an Aksa GK-1 preamp and then to the Gainclone, the aksa at almost full volume and the CD player at half volume, I can barely hear anything 🙁
I then went from the CD -> GK-1-> Aleph 3 and it sounds just fine, so I know that there is nothing wrong with the GK-1.
Is this something to do with input/output impedance matching? what is wrong here? I initially thought of using the GK-1 as a volume control/pre-amp, but I am wondering if it is useable now?
thanks
vsr
Folks,
Can anyone tell me what is going on?
I put the Gainclone kit together with a 25+25 Toroid, tested all the voltages, etc and -
went from A Marantz 63se (with in built volume control) to the Gainclone amp to speakers. Sounds very good, but extremely loud to the point that I cannot go above 3 levels on the Marantz....way too loud.
I then went from the CD player to an Aksa GK-1 preamp and then to the Gainclone, the aksa at almost full volume and the CD player at half volume, I can barely hear anything 🙁
I then went from the CD -> GK-1-> Aleph 3 and it sounds just fine, so I know that there is nothing wrong with the GK-1.
Is this something to do with input/output impedance matching? what is wrong here? I initially thought of using the GK-1 as a volume control/pre-amp, but I am wondering if it is useable now?
thanks
vsr
Volume through the GainClone
Ok...these loose connections will be the end of me, the problem I previously reported was just a loose connection. 😡
What would be most recommended in terms of volume control (its still so loud though) -
1. adding an attenuator on the gainclone (I already have a pre-amp)
2. or going with a lower voltage rail (I use 25+25 currently)
3. Or going with a selection of Resistors such that the overall Gain is lower?
thanks
vsr
Ok...these loose connections will be the end of me, the problem I previously reported was just a loose connection. 😡
What would be most recommended in terms of volume control (its still so loud though) -
1. adding an attenuator on the gainclone (I already have a pre-amp)
2. or going with a lower voltage rail (I use 25+25 currently)
3. Or going with a selection of Resistors such that the overall Gain is lower?
thanks
vsr
Just a note to Brian & Meredith...
I have to say thanks for the hard work. It's hard to explain how much fun it was to fire up that little amp last night and hear that music. It was a fantastic moment. A real thrill to hear that thing make such great sound. Wonderful! A great newb project!
Just like a junky, where's the bridged version?
I have to say thanks for the hard work. It's hard to explain how much fun it was to fire up that little amp last night and hear that music. It was a fantastic moment. A real thrill to hear that thing make such great sound. Wonderful! A great newb project!
Just like a junky, where's the bridged version?
chipco3434 said:
Glad to hear that you got it up and running. It sure is a good feeling.
I haven't made it to lab for the bridged one yet. I caught a cold a week or so ago, so I was resting from that for a while. In the process, I missed a few days of work, and got behind, so I have been working extra hours over the last week to get my projects at work done. Once I am caught up, I will spend time on my audio projects 🙂 Hopefully I will make it into lab by the end of the week to work on the Bridgeclone.
--
Brian
Problem
I thought I did a good job with the soldering. I must have done something wrong. I am using a variac to start it up with multimeters at the speaker binding posts for both channels. I got scared and stop the variac when the voltage get to -2.5V for both channels. The variac was set at around 10V A/C.
What mistake I could have done?
Thanks,
Chris
I thought I did a good job with the soldering. I must have done something wrong. I am using a variac to start it up with multimeters at the speaker binding posts for both channels. I got scared and stop the variac when the voltage get to -2.5V for both channels. The variac was set at around 10V A/C.
What mistake I could have done?
Thanks,
Chris
If you didn't have the load connected, it may be normal. Just power the whole thing up (forget the Variac, but with no speakers attached) and check DC offset. If it's about 60mV, it's fine. If you blow the chip, I'll send you a new one😉
Peter Daniel said:
Peter,
You are the man! One channel has -66mV and -34mV the other..with no variac and very stable
Thanks,
Chris
This is a very nice sounding amp. Not the usual off the shelf power amp. I can understand why all the fuss about GC now. First half an hour listening was very good. But I was using the B&W DM2 speakers for test only. How long I should run it before I jump to the conclusion with more critical listening. Right now as is it certainly outperform my Rotel receiver hands down. And the Rotel cost me $1500cdn plus 15% VAT five years ago.
This GC cost me well you all know, group buy from Brian and the case I built from all surplus left overs from previous projects, MDF panels painted with silver hammered finish, left over car panel steel plate for all connectors, that one cost me a few routor bits! steel is tough, painted with left over metallic racing green, glue on to the mdf. Actually new parts for this GC are the three wooden door knobs from Home Depot cost $1.59cdn a pair as the legs.
Chris
PS, I forgot about the transformers that cost me $297 for two 20-0-20 400VA shielded from Piltron including delivery charge.
This GC cost me well you all know, group buy from Brian and the case I built from all surplus left overs from previous projects, MDF panels painted with silver hammered finish, left over car panel steel plate for all connectors, that one cost me a few routor bits! steel is tough, painted with left over metallic racing green, glue on to the mdf. Actually new parts for this GC are the three wooden door knobs from Home Depot cost $1.59cdn a pair as the legs.
Chris
PS, I forgot about the transformers that cost me $297 for two 20-0-20 400VA shielded from Piltron including delivery charge.
I would say run it for at least 24 hours, before any serious conclusions, but in my experience, those amps sound pretty good right from the beginning. Further breaking in will only refine the original signature.
I found out why I was blowing fuses
After blowing many fuses from 2A slow to 5A slow and searching high and low throught my wiring, I found the reason for my blowing fuses. I used #6 screws to mount Brian's PC board. Big mistake. The screws were shorting the V+ and V- traces on the boards to ground. Brian recommends #4 screws. After replacing the screws everything works fine. I can turn on/off my GC with just a 4A fast blow. 300VA 22-0-22 Toroidal to dual bridge rectifiers. The photo shows where the #6 screws had touched the V+, V- trace. The new screws have beveled sides and do not touch the traces. Hope this may help someone.
After blowing many fuses from 2A slow to 5A slow and searching high and low throught my wiring, I found the reason for my blowing fuses. I used #6 screws to mount Brian's PC board. Big mistake. The screws were shorting the V+ and V- traces on the boards to ground. Brian recommends #4 screws. After replacing the screws everything works fine. I can turn on/off my GC with just a 4A fast blow. 300VA 22-0-22 Toroidal to dual bridge rectifiers. The photo shows where the #6 screws had touched the V+, V- trace. The new screws have beveled sides and do not touch the traces. Hope this may help someone.
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