There won't be anyone but me dealing with these so catering to the masses is not a consideration 🙂
I have two types, I don't really like how the first set don't have the banana plug go all the way in and the second set are a little short so I will need to 'make' them fit.
Making either fit is no issue, I used speakons on my LX521 and buried the cable and connector in the panel. That was done on a split piece of wood with a cordless drill and a TCT router bit, so using a drill press on a flat panel is much easier.
It just would have been easier to do before I glued the cabinet together.
I have another box of the gold plated type so that doesn't narrow down my choice!
I'm leaning towards the speakons because it will make disassembly easier, I can pull the cable through the entry hole and remove the crimps outside the cabinet.
You are the one that can make the decision to keep yourself happy.
I'd say use whatever works best for you. Does that help? 😀
I'd say use whatever works best for you. Does that help? 😀
Probably for all the wrong reasons...
I don't understand why expensive high end manufactures insist on using banana plugs while there is better available.
I have been temped on many occasions to fit Speakons in my Focal Eletra speakers. I'm sure that one day I wil actually do just that.
The issue is usually caused unintentional; example: you or your wife are cleaning with a mob and by accident the plugs are removed because someone tripped over a cable. 😛
You would be surprised how many amps do not have short circuit protection! 😱
My Sony amp has gone into protect mode exactly once in it's lifetime. 14awg unterminated stranded wire crammed into spring terminal. A single strand strayed from the flock and caused bigtime mischief! Works fine to this day...
I decided to go with the speakons, I have cut the new holes and pugged the old ones. I'll take a picture when I have tidied up the plug ends.
Centre hole cut, mounting points have hardwood dowels glued in to the mdf to give more strength when screwing and unscrewing. You can see the other hole plugged to the top.
Connector attached
I used two wraps of insulation tape around the body to make it virtually a press fit without the screws.
I put some bits of foam tape in the gaps at the back of the connector. Probably a waste of time but I had just the right amount of an off cut piece to do the job so why not..
Connector attached
I used two wraps of insulation tape around the body to make it virtually a press fit without the screws.
I put some bits of foam tape in the gaps at the back of the connector. Probably a waste of time but I had just the right amount of an off cut piece to do the job so why not..
Attachments
The version with two pins is more expensive to buy! It is exactly the same layout except 2+ and 2- are gone.
It can work as two pin or you can use 4 core wire and tie two together for double the cable thickness.
They are meant for two way systems which is how I normally use them but they work just fine for this.
Those look nice. Can't go wrong with Neutrik.
Tech details: NL4MPR - Neutrik
Silver plated bronze contacts, <3mOhm. That's gotta be better than zinc! 😛
I also like these. Minimalist, pure copper gold plated connectors. No threads. About $60usd per set of 4 connectors. Relatively cheap compared to other pure copper posts. They will accept standard banana plugs.
Tech details: NL4MPR - Neutrik
Silver plated bronze contacts, <3mOhm. That's gotta be better than zinc! 😛
I also like these. Minimalist, pure copper gold plated connectors. No threads. About $60usd per set of 4 connectors. Relatively cheap compared to other pure copper posts. They will accept standard banana plugs.
There's nothing to bi-amp, single way, full range all drivers wired together.
Yes and it will be totally swamped by the cable resistance in any case, nothing to worry about.
Sorry, I meant that they were intended for Bi-amping a pair of two way speakers with or without without passive crossovers, not necessarily for your full range line arrays.
OT, but I always feel like removing the passive xovers from a two-way speaker for bi-amping would be risky. Sending full range to a tweet (due to misconfiguration or miswiring of an active crossover) could destroy the driver even at very low power.
The 4 pin Speakons can carry stereo or multi channel.
It's not really ment for bi-amping. B-amping does not exists in the pro world.
A 4 pin connector lends itself nicely to work with a 2 way active system but can be used for any application that requires 4 separate connections.
A 2 way active system is not bi-amping, different terminology. Bi-amping is leaving the passive crossover in place and feeding the two sections of that crossover from different amps, which I think is a very inefficient use of a pair of amps.
If you are worried about your tweeter or configuring things properly then use a protection capacitor. Major manufacturers use them for that reason or they make sure that the system cannot be misconfigured. Speakons can help with this as you can't insert them incorrectly (Just need to make sure you wire them properly in the first place).
To return to the topic of the thread I have started to glue up the second cabinet 🙂
