Re: Re: first project complete planet-10 FR125s aperiodic
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/boxes-CSS.html#4L-aperiodic
There is a chunk of foam on the inside covering the holes at a minimum.
dave
roffe said:Are the building plans shareable?
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/boxes-CSS.html#4L-aperiodic
There is a chunk of foam on the inside covering the holes at a minimum.
dave
Re: Re: Re: first project complete planet-10 FR125s aperiodic
Hi Dave
There is indeed a chunk of fairly rigid medium density foam covering the holes.
I have also since plugged the holes with individual pieces of foam.
Thanks again for this project which has really shown that DIY speakers are a reality, even for those of us that have little experience.
I have a pair of PMC TB2S-A Monitors that need a sub.
I can't afford the asking price, So i think i'll have a go at your take on the dual 6.5"
Transmission line sub is my next project using twin CSS SDX7's.
there was a good discussion here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=98478&highlight=
Cheers
Luke
planet10 said:
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/boxes-CSS.html#4L-aperiodic
There is a chunk of foam on the inside covering the holes at a minimum.
dave
Hi Dave
There is indeed a chunk of fairly rigid medium density foam covering the holes.
I have also since plugged the holes with individual pieces of foam.
Thanks again for this project which has really shown that DIY speakers are a reality, even for those of us that have little experience.
I have a pair of PMC TB2S-A Monitors that need a sub.
I can't afford the asking price, So i think i'll have a go at your take on the dual 6.5"
Transmission line sub is my next project using twin CSS SDX7's.
there was a good discussion here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=98478&highlight=
Cheers
Luke
Re: Re: Re: Re: first project complete planet-10 FR125s aperiodic
You are welcome ... it is all in the interest of getting more diy-addicts 🙂
dave
disjunction said:Thanks again for this project which has really shown that DIY speakers are a reality, even for those of us that have little experience.
You are welcome ... it is all in the interest of getting more diy-addicts 🙂
dave
mFonkens and DIYParadise Charlize
I finally for some nice photos taken of my speakers and amp, so here they are. This is my first DIY audio project, I love the results.
uFonkens from solid french oak, super high quality custom plywood enclosure for the amp, hoho.
Whatcha think?
I finally for some nice photos taken of my speakers and amp, so here they are. This is my first DIY audio project, I love the results.
uFonkens from solid french oak, super high quality custom plywood enclosure for the amp, hoho.




Whatcha think?
Lovely looking speakers! Amp would be nice in a hammond case, it doesn't look like it needs a lot of space. Theres an Italian aluminium company too that make some compact enclosures, can't remember name, begins with M though 😕
Re: uFonkens and DIYParadise Charlize
I'll echo Inrank... uFonken are stunning (can i use the pitures?)
Everything else will likely sound better if you get some RF shielding inside the amp case.
How are you enjoying the sound?
dave
st_eloi said:uFonkens from solid french oak, super high quality custom plywood enclosure for the amp, hoho.
Whatcha think?
I'll echo Inrank... uFonken are stunning (can i use the pitures?)
Everything else will likely sound better if you get some RF shielding inside the amp case.
How are you enjoying the sound?
dave
Roemhild said:I have tried to build my final speakers. Well we will see how long I will keep them.
The construktion is for the Fostex FX200. The faceplate is to absorb a peek at 8 kHz. There are no filters or passive components between the speaker and the amp.
cya Till
How do you even go about designing something like this?

Pictures
Of course you can use the pictures Dave, I can send you some high quality versions if you like.
Of course you can use the pictures Dave, I can send you some high quality versions if you like.
Re: Pictures
Please...
dave
st_eloi said:Of course you can use the pictures Dave, I can send you some high quality versions if you like.
Please...
dave
Re: Re: Re: first project complete planet-10 FR125s aperiodic
Thank you.
I find the aperiodic boxes interesting, since they are obviously space saving without sacrificing too much bass output compared to a closed cabinet tuning. But finding good design rules for such vents are difficult. Seems to be based a lot on trial and error.
planet10 said:
http://www.planet10-hifi.com/boxes-CSS.html#4L-aperiodic
There is a chunk of foam on the inside covering the holes at a minimum.
dave
Thank you.
I find the aperiodic boxes interesting, since they are obviously space saving without sacrificing too much bass output compared to a closed cabinet tuning. But finding good design rules for such vents are difficult. Seems to be based a lot on trial and error.
Re: Re: Re: Re: first project complete planet-10 FR125s aperiodic
that, experience, and either the clik test or lots of impedance plots.
dave
roffe said:Seems to be based a lot on trial and error.
that, experience, and either the clik test or lots of impedance plots.
dave
here is a link to my pictures of my first speaker build let me know what you all think of them and any sugestions on what to build next im hooked
link to speakers http://www.flickr.com/photos/35669902@N06/
link to speakers http://www.flickr.com/photos/35669902@N06/
Lovely. Can you elaborate on the finish process? I'm looking for finish ideas for baltic birch. I was simply thinking Tung Oil.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Minwax antique oil finish (red can) followed by Miniwax finishing wax. Easy and inexpensive. Creates an extremely even finish on Birch IMO. I used 00 steel wool to apply the wax and then buffed with a terry cloth towel.
cervelorider said:Minwax antique oil finish (red can) followed by Miniwax finishing wax. Easy and inexpensive. Creates an extremely even finish on Birch IMO. I used 00 steel wool to apply the wax and then buffed with a terry cloth towel.
Any ideas on how I can apply a dark redish finish to light colored hard maple which will still allow the grain to be seen? Maple is nearly impossible to stain because of the tight grain. I figure a successful 'staining' would probably be more like applying a surface coat of stain the same way one would spray paint (not touch after spraying on) to let dry and then follow with clearcoats.
rcavictim said:
Any ideas on how I can apply a dark redish finish to light colored hard maple which will still allow the grain to be seen? Maple is nearly impossible to stain because of the tight grain. I figure a successful 'staining' would probably be more like applying a surface coat of stain the same way one would spray paint (not touch after spraying on) to let dry and then follow with clearcoats.
Experiment on scraps with seal coat of shellac (if your target finish is dark anyway, you could use natural orange shellac), or something like Minwax Pre-Stain conditioner
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
just be sure to use product compatible with your finishing materials - i.e. don't mix water based and oil or alcohol based products
practice if you plan to spray stain - flat panels are one thing, but controlling shadowing / overspray around the corners of a rectangular shaped box is another
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