Mono fullrange speaker DIY sandwich cone and self made whizzer cone.
In a marble box from the stonemason. Due to communication error he made the walls 4cm thick instead of 2cm.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/rcf-21-woofer-lf21n451.405626/post-7510921
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/how-to-make-a-whizzer-cone.398063/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...loudspeaker-sandwich-cone.402917/post-7443476
It's for Bluetooth music for smartfone use. Think about driving it with a current driven amplifier with LM1875
In a marble box from the stonemason. Due to communication error he made the walls 4cm thick instead of 2cm.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/rcf-21-woofer-lf21n451.405626/post-7510921
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/how-to-make-a-whizzer-cone.398063/
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...loudspeaker-sandwich-cone.402917/post-7443476
It's for Bluetooth music for smartfone use. Think about driving it with a current driven amplifier with LM1875
Visaton BG20's in some 0.5 ft^3 sealed nearly-cubes (meant for integration with sub). Birch veneer plywood, natural stain with satin poly finish.
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/visaton-bg20-8-full-range-driver-sealed-monitors.405844/
Very best,
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/visaton-bg20-8-full-range-driver-sealed-monitors.405844/
Very best,
Let me try to win Ugliest Prize (though far from my cheapest). The sound of the 6x10 DEW-alnico fullrange is kind of like eating creme brulee -- buttery rich crispy textured. When I picked up a pair early 2022 (one of my first forays into bargain vintage alnico) I was so taken by the sweet-not-sour sound I then "fished" four additional drivers. While I had some success combining OB-U (openback shallow box) with side-firing inductor-BSC, even with a third driver I couldn't reach bass much below ~70hz. Tried bi-amping with a 6x9 auto speaker but the sensitivity gap was ~11dB. Finally, last weekend I ran into the Infinity Kappa 693c fiberglass 6x9 3ohm 94dB close to the alnico. Whipped up a filter to reduce 4ohm alnico mid-hi, keeping (boosting) HF above 9khz, 0.68mH || 2.5ohm || 4.7uF; LPF 3mH @ 160hz 1st-order. The cab is ready-made trapezoidal dual-chamber-6x9; alnico port stuffed, bass port to be tuned later. Total cost about 1200... renminbi or $170 not counting Jantzen XO bits.
Have the cake and eat it too!
Have the cake and eat it too!
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What I was afraid of, may have just happened. Potentially A/A/A (hi/mid/lo) high-fidelity sound for 300... renminbi or ~$40/pr. The guilty accomplices are a modified version of the "English drum paper" Michael's Audio 5" (really 4.5"; different sizes 4-8" variously branded Hifi-bird or Isred) and off-the-shelf 4" (supersized) labyrinth. Earlier I had "stacked" the regular version of this driver with another brand's 5" of identical frame but complementary frequency response, called micor55. When I went back for a spare set I was offered the "upgrade". Indeed the midrange was much fuller and the (amazing) dynamics still intact, but the overall transparency and 3D of the original were missing. Scratching my head, I unsealed the roll of 2in automotive "plast" tape and scissor-cut a pair of fan shapes, which self-attached to the drivers' dustcap rim. Tone-sweep and trim... HF flat and whizzer had no distinguishable sound of its own. The 7.5L cabs were cheap but well-built. I simply inserted through the driver cutout a piece of thick cardboard at a slight angle to make a tapered/stepped transmission line of ~1.1m length (quarterwave frequency ~50hz due to taper/mass-load). Comparable to my SB Satori 2-way at 20X the cost....
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You think that's ugly? I think some horns with babybelle cheese wax as filler are my ugliest speakers, anyway I'm off now to Google Infinity Kappa 696C drivers.
The guy who sold me the 693c also had (sold) the JBL 962cf which he said was the same (yes nearly identical params), and JBL 62cf (round) which was not as low/dynamic.
The Nest Music Theater is a Fostex E∑ full range, high efficiency 3.1 system with FE168E∑ drivers in back loaded horns for L/R mains and FE108E∑s in two small Onkens for the center channel. The BLHs are mods of the Nagoaka D37 in 15mm Baltic birch and the Onkens are not unlike FOnkens built from 12mm Baltic birch. The mains are augmented with Viawave supertweeters and the lows are bolstered by a Hsu sub. The 2KHz shout from the mains was tamed with external EQ but the centers are run naked. I have vinyl but play mostly high rez digital stuff and listen to a lot of female singer/songwriters. The mains are powered by my handmade 8 watt 300B SET amp most often loaded with Czech KR Audio tubes. The center is powered with a Willsenton push-pull amp loaded with Mullard EL34 tubes. The CC signal is borne from a pro Dolby decoder usign PLIIx from 2 channel PCM. Speakers and racks are stained true black and finished with 4 coats of matte poly. The trickiest part was accounting for processing delay differences in gear between L/R & CC which I address with impluse measurements and a Felston time delay box. This music theater is amazing.
A change to my bass bin, instead of the pair of 10 inch sub drivers, I'm using a pair of (for full range) high excursion 12 inch drivers.
The much higher efficiency thinner cone higher qts cones go subjectively as deep, and are more expressive without eq.
Bass drums now have tone instead of thud.
The much higher efficiency thinner cone higher qts cones go subjectively as deep, and are more expressive without eq.
Bass drums now have tone instead of thud.
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Interesting, could you comment on the CC L/R improvement over running the pair of 108e∑ as simply L R or as R L? Thanks.
I actually have some vintage full/wide-range drivers from the mono-to-stereo transition period, L-R stereo-pair plus midtweeter-midbass mono-pair so-to-speak. Been wondering how to 3.1 them, low-tech alternatives preferred.
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I have tried this for a passive centre fill speaker before, in a stereo system.
My system imaged well enough without a centre speaker, and I instead used a Hafler style differential with an integrated amp to control volume to a single rear ambience channel.
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With some alpair 12P, I wanted to reduce midrange and treble baffle reflections, and found a small piece of acoustic foam helped a lot. I wanted to reduce front wall reflections, and am trying out a larger thinner piece of foam behind the driver; imaging has improved, as well as lower midrange heft.
Clearing one front baffle cutout provides a passive short circuit to reduce the dipole hump, but with these changes, the treble is now noticed to lack a subjrctively rounded or "juicy" quality.
It's present with digital, but not with my turntable.
I switched from CD playback, and am playing through and with WIIM streamer to use its equalizer. Boosting treble had no good sounding effects, yet a steep roll off improved subjective treble impressively, and it sounds much more natural, especially so with live music and audience noises like applause. I don't have the means to measure what's going on. Has anyone done this?
I am curious if this is an artifact of using a digital equalizer, or if mostly removing the high treble has also mostly removed high treble highly noticeable Doppler distortion. The remaining treble seems produced well enough to not miss what's not there- again, subjectively similar to extended range driver impressions I have of some alpair 12PW or some old Seas TV21 8 inch drivers.
Clearing one front baffle cutout provides a passive short circuit to reduce the dipole hump, but with these changes, the treble is now noticed to lack a subjrctively rounded or "juicy" quality.
It's present with digital, but not with my turntable.
I switched from CD playback, and am playing through and with WIIM streamer to use its equalizer. Boosting treble had no good sounding effects, yet a steep roll off improved subjective treble impressively, and it sounds much more natural, especially so with live music and audience noises like applause. I don't have the means to measure what's going on. Has anyone done this?
I am curious if this is an artifact of using a digital equalizer, or if mostly removing the high treble has also mostly removed high treble highly noticeable Doppler distortion. The remaining treble seems produced well enough to not miss what's not there- again, subjectively similar to extended range driver impressions I have of some alpair 12PW or some old Seas TV21 8 inch drivers.
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Thanks, where in the diagram does the ambience-channel integrated amp "plug in"? I found a word description that kind of matched this; however, even its author professed lack of understanding
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...ler-dynaco-center-channel.724645/post-9798335
The diagram is only for the centre. The Hafler style rear ambience was a separate thing. I ran a pair of interconnects from my preamplifier to the integrated CD input, and both positive leads to the single speaker's binding posts.