The depth affects the volume which is tied to the bass extension and bent length. 6.9cm vs 7cm is no big deal. 1.5in for about 100Hz extension when using with a sub and 4in for full range down to 50Hz or so. Make it variable and tune it to your liking. They even make telescopic adjustable vents.
What would the key data for a straight MLTL with the PA130-8 be?
Is 50Hz a realistic goal?
How much power could that little woofer handle in an MLTL (excursion....)?
For PA130-8, a good analog is to take 0.53x Karlsonator and unfold it. So about 35in long, same volume not including front chamber. Without Kaperture cone motion won’t be as controlled and 2.5mm Xmax probably good for maybe 10W before bottoming out.
I will need to run Akabak sim and get better numbers.
I will need to run Akabak sim and get better numbers.
Stumbled upon this software while looking around because for some reason WinISD won't run on my system (Win 7 64-bit) and I haven't been able to figure out how to use HornResp (newbie):
https://kimmosaunisto.net/Software/VituixCAD/VituixCAD_setup.exe
Seems pretty robust and full-featured plus it's free as in beer and seems to be updated regularly (update released today).
Anyone here used it? Useful?
Paul
https://kimmosaunisto.net/Software/VituixCAD/VituixCAD_setup.exe
Seems pretty robust and full-featured plus it's free as in beer and seems to be updated regularly (update released today).
Anyone here used it? Useful?
Paul
Which version? You should be using the latest; it worked fine on both a borrowed 2012? W7 pro 64 and new W10 laptop a couple of years ago: WinISD - WinISD 0.7.0.900 available for download | Facebook
Saw it the other day, seems like a really good one to use, so plan to try it if I start building again. For now, HR is good enough for helping most folk's cab design Qs.
GM
Saw it the other day, seems like a really good one to use, so plan to try it if I start building again. For now, HR is good enough for helping most folk's cab design Qs.
GM
WinISD 0.7.950
It worked at first until I started entering driver data, then it froze, since then it crashes on startup. Removed/reinstalled/rebooted a couple of times but no luck.
Tried to find a preferences file that might be corrupted but couldn't find it. I'm a Mac usr mainly, don't know where app preferences are stored on Windows. Looked in AppData…not there.
It needs to be long enough for 1/4 WL action to damp the vent, so > ~2.6x Fb IME to be more than a tall reflex, i.e. makes a noticeable difference, though MJK made a statement awhile back that it's technically somewhat lower as shown in his MathCad worksheets, but don't have them loaded, so not sure what it is.
Drivers, vents ideally need to be at the pipe's odd harmonics, which due to the vent are shifted down a little from theory, though doubt it's audible once the cab's damped, so ~1/5, 1/3, etc., is close enough.
Not without big time horn loading if the 2 mm Xmax is correct and even then not a good plan to tune a vent < ~0.707x Fs = ~59 Hz.
That said, at 1 W, a ~ 64 Hz max flat MLTL runs out of Xmax at ~50 Hz, so a high pass to protect it may be required.
H = 52 cm
WxD = 160 cm^2
driver offset = 22 cm
vent offset = 43.5 cm
vent = 2.54 cm dia. x 3 cm
All dimensions [dims] are inside [i.d.].
Damp to personal 'taste', but normally all we want to do is get rid of any 'hollow'/'ringing' sound as any more will start rolling off the bass, though of course due to room acoustics, some may prefer it.
GM
Not a geek, so no clue why it works for me and many others, though admittedly I haven't tried to load it on this HP Workbook. All I remember is all these type programs were loaded in one of the 'program' folders if I didn't make a special one to load it to; if it puts stuff in other folders, then no clue.
GM
GM
Well, it can be made taller if you need the driver higher up, which will plump it up volume wise.
GM
GM
Member
Joined 2009
Paid Member
How did this work out?
The Mrs has plans on the living room. Very much a thought at the moment. So I'm considering suggesting a full range setup within the wall. It's a non-load bearing plasterboard dividing wall between the lounge and kitchen. My thought here was to built a ceiling to floor (concrete) pair of speakers into the wall that creates an alcove between them for the TV and audio equipment (which we'd need anyway). The idea is to replace the existing sofa and move the room around.
Given the mrs banned my Castle Harlechs from the living room for taking room much floor space, I figure something built in would have a better wife appeal (thinking of Mark Audio drivers).
I've had dolby pro-logic setups years back, so if her plan involves pulling down the ceiling artex and changing the lighting.. I would possibly be interested in adding ceiling downward firing surrounds. More of a nod towards surround sound but I've always focused on the stereo rather than surround. Current TV sound is the only thing in the living room. I'd like a tube setup with a record player and CD player. Part of under the shelf being space to store records. All neat and tidy - the Mrs is OCD in terms of dirt/dust, I'm more Japanese zen except the mancave that looks like a tornado has hit it 😀
I'm a fan of taught natural bass, the Harlechs were 1/4 wave with two mid/woofer drivers loading - one facing forward and one facing up. Soft tweeter being the only other thing. Stunning for live recordings.
The Mrs has plans on the living room. Very much a thought at the moment. So I'm considering suggesting a full range setup within the wall. It's a non-load bearing plasterboard dividing wall between the lounge and kitchen. My thought here was to built a ceiling to floor (concrete) pair of speakers into the wall that creates an alcove between them for the TV and audio equipment (which we'd need anyway). The idea is to replace the existing sofa and move the room around.
Given the mrs banned my Castle Harlechs from the living room for taking room much floor space, I figure something built in would have a better wife appeal (thinking of Mark Audio drivers).
I've had dolby pro-logic setups years back, so if her plan involves pulling down the ceiling artex and changing the lighting.. I would possibly be interested in adding ceiling downward firing surrounds. More of a nod towards surround sound but I've always focused on the stereo rather than surround. Current TV sound is the only thing in the living room. I'd like a tube setup with a record player and CD player. Part of under the shelf being space to store records. All neat and tidy - the Mrs is OCD in terms of dirt/dust, I'm more Japanese zen except the mancave that looks like a tornado has hit it 😀
I'm a fan of taught natural bass, the Harlechs were 1/4 wave with two mid/woofer drivers loading - one facing forward and one facing up. Soft tweeter being the only other thing. Stunning for live recordings.