When you said, "Just use one" do you mean just use one KT-150 tube vs two 150's?
Yes. An SE amp. It could be triode, ultralinear or pentode (or switchable).
http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/frank/sheets/084/k/KT150.pdf
Suggests a single tube can do 20w (at a specific set of settings), likely in pentode. You’ll get about half that in triode. Ultralinear in-between.
dave
http://www.mif.pg.gda.pl/homepages/frank/sheets/084/k/KT150.pdf
Suggests a single tube can do 20w (at a specific set of settings), likely in pentode. You’ll get about half that in triode. Ultralinear in-between.
dave
Thank you for the feedback. I’m going to have a guy I met here build one for me.
Yeah, even with adding 10% to its minimal Xmax it's only OK at 8 W/~103 dB avg./m/2pi, so tube 10 W is plenty for average SPLs and up 20 W for 'fast' transients would be my choice.
GM
Just saw an English made KT150 SE. 18w in triode, 28w in UL.
Stereo 30 SE Single Ended Integrated Amplifier - Stereo 30SE - Integrated Amplifiers
dave
Hmm. when I see only an 'enquire' or similar I assume I can't afford to live with them.
GM
Yes, a small ampifier driven into heavy clipping is a dangerous thing. We replaced many, many Advent fried egg tweeters (ie they fried) because of this. You could tell immediatly as the ferrofluid was ejected out of thegap and atained the cone — we could do a swap over quicker than it took to do the paperwork.
dave
Glad we cleared that up for the OP, didn't want him using too much power thinking it was safer than too little
Is driving an amp into clipping an issue with a full range driver?
No need to apologize, we've all been one.
In general, yes, i.e. max box size/shape, main usage [computer, bedroom, HT, whatever], basic details of the room, where the speakers/main listening position is desired, etc.; IOW all the info required that allows us to best overall meet the needs/desires of your app since the room dominates its performance once you're more than [>] ~ 1m/4ft away and even then, if on a desk anywhere near a wall it will still dominate much of the most critical bandwidth [BW] of all, the 250-2500 Hz telephone BW.
GM
Heavy clipping is often less likely in a FR because the impedance curve is more benign, but almost any amp will clip on really dynamic music. How well an amplifier recovers (or goes) into clipping is a very important factor in how good an amplifier sounds. For instance using the original ACA i have do such a nice job, it sounds WAY bigger than its 5w. And i have related the story of the 20w NAD playing louder before audible clipping then a 200w 1st gen Carver cube (into a very non-reactive speaker — reactive ones (ie how close does the phase stay to zero?) can be much worse.
dave
maybe i can't let go of old thinking... i agree that wattage rating with respect to spl or quality is meaningless but to say it's a completely useless spec....i don't know...likely from being an old pa dude and wanting a ballpark of load wattage versus amp wattage (lowbrow estimation of potential for failure given long term averages)
Last edited:
Perhaps useful for comparison within a brand (as long as they use the same methodology for all drivers), but given no spec for the actual way to take the measurement, useless. I have always ignored power handling for domestic loudspeakers. Much etter to be concerned with the quality of the amp and whether the output impedance matches the speaker.
dave
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.