Hi,
I am still new in speaker design. I want to build a full range driver with a subwoofer to be able to us the full range driver on every bases and be able to connect it on full range driver when I curate event outdoor to have better base.
My questions are :
Thanks in advance
I am still new in speaker design. I want to build a full range driver with a subwoofer to be able to us the full range driver on every bases and be able to connect it on full range driver when I curate event outdoor to have better base.
My questions are :
- what type of crossover would be the best for that ?
- Also how would be the best way to organise them so when the full range is disconnected from the subwoofer it covers all frequency and only give lower frequency to subwoofer for the outdoor events ?
- I was also wondering about to do ported and what to sealed ? If my full range is ported and my subwoofer is sealed would that create any trouble ? Or what would be the best to do ?
Thanks in advance

You keep reporting your own profile and you also report your own thread saying 'wrong question' for both reports.
What is it you want to report?
🙂
Hi,
Sorry i just wanted to rewrite the question to fix my spelling mistake. I am still new on diy audio. I am still trying to answer those questions..
I am still new in speaker design. I want to build a full range driver with a subwoofer to be able to us the full range driver on every bass and be able to connect it on full range driver when I curate event outdoor to have better bass.
My questions are :
Sorry i just wanted to rewrite the question to fix my spelling mistake. I am still new on diy audio. I am still trying to answer those questions..
I am still new in speaker design. I want to build a full range driver with a subwoofer to be able to us the full range driver on every bass and be able to connect it on full range driver when I curate event outdoor to have better bass.
My questions are :
- what type of crossover would be the best for that ?
- Also how would be the best way to organise them so when the full range is disconnected from the subwoofer it covers all frequency and only give lower frequency to subwoofer for the outdoor events ?
- I was also wondering about to do ported and what to sealed ? If my full range is ported and my subwoofer is sealed would that create any trouble ? Or what would be the best to do ?
Also how would be the best way to organise them so when the full range is disconnected from the subwoofer it covers all frequency and only give lower frequency to subwoofer for the outdoor events.
Maybe a subwoofer plate amp, some older plate amps had speaker level inputs and outputs that used an internal xover so your main speakers are highpassed to cut the bass.
Also combining sealed with ported you will never really tell whats going to happen until you try, your system is portable so it'll more depend on where and how you are using it(PA system essentially)
Maybe a subwoofer plate amp, some older plate amps had speaker level inputs and outputs that used an internal xover so your main speakers are highpassed to cut the bass.
Also combining sealed with ported you will never really tell whats going to happen until you try, your system is portable so it'll more depend on where and how you are using it(PA system essentially)
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My advice, for what it is worth:
1. Pick a FR driver with a freq response you like and a box design you feel comfortable building.
2. Find a subwoofer with a plate amp that has a built in x-over.
3. Don't worry about ported or sealed.
4. Hook it all up and play with the x-over settings until you like the integration of the two.
What is the issue you are reading about that combining ported and sealed will cause?
1. Pick a FR driver with a freq response you like and a box design you feel comfortable building.
2. Find a subwoofer with a plate amp that has a built in x-over.
3. Don't worry about ported or sealed.
4. Hook it all up and play with the x-over settings until you like the integration of the two.
What is the issue you are reading about that combining ported and sealed will cause?
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Hi,
This is amazing thank you so much for your answers 🙂 I was planning to build my own subwoofer enclosure too. Those are the infos I found about combining a ported FR with a sealed subwoofer.
Combining a ported 8-inch driver with a sealed subwoofer is technically possible, but it can pose challenges in terms of sound integration and may result in suboptimal performance. Here's why:
Differing Bass Characteristics: Ported and sealed enclosures have distinct bass characteristics. Ported enclosures emphasize deep bass extension and can have a peak in output at the tuning frequency of the port, which may not align with the characteristics of a sealed subwoofer. Sealed enclosures provide a more controlled and accurate bass response. The differing bass profiles can lead to inconsistencies and may not provide a seamless transition between the two drivers.
Acoustic Phase and Timing: Combining drivers with different enclosure types can introduce phase and timing issues in the low-frequency range. These issues can result in audible distortions and inconsistencies in sound quality. Achieving precise phase alignment between drivers in different enclosures can be challenging.
Have you heard of this before? Also do you know any good plate amp you worked before in similar work ?
This is amazing thank you so much for your answers 🙂 I was planning to build my own subwoofer enclosure too. Those are the infos I found about combining a ported FR with a sealed subwoofer.
Combining a ported 8-inch driver with a sealed subwoofer is technically possible, but it can pose challenges in terms of sound integration and may result in suboptimal performance. Here's why:
Differing Bass Characteristics: Ported and sealed enclosures have distinct bass characteristics. Ported enclosures emphasize deep bass extension and can have a peak in output at the tuning frequency of the port, which may not align with the characteristics of a sealed subwoofer. Sealed enclosures provide a more controlled and accurate bass response. The differing bass profiles can lead to inconsistencies and may not provide a seamless transition between the two drivers.
Acoustic Phase and Timing: Combining drivers with different enclosure types can introduce phase and timing issues in the low-frequency range. These issues can result in audible distortions and inconsistencies in sound quality. Achieving precise phase alignment between drivers in different enclosures can be challenging.
Have you heard of this before? Also do you know any good plate amp you worked before in similar work ?
While use of subs and FRs is fairly common — not much different than adding subs to a multiway.
Of more interest to me is the similar WAW (Woofer Assisted Wideband) where the XO is moved up. This allows the FR/midTweeter to do a better job mid-top and the XO is still low enuff that one can avoid many of the evils of XOs.
This is much easy to do if you go active/bi-amp.
If you plan on using the FR independently, given drivers available today, will likely need to be vented to do any bass. If you aren’t then sealed or an aperiodic midTL.
This is an example of one we did (it is 4 boxes), not really a subwoofer, but the sats work fine by themselves, adding the helper woofer means they give few excuses except for REALLY loud. It is an example of a theme, this the smallest trapezoid miniOnken, the larger ones would support bass drivers that go lower.
I will also note that the slot vents allow easy addition of (foam) damping in the vents to push the satelitte more heavily aperiodic.
In this case the woofer is an ML-TL, necessary to accomodate the necessary shape and to extract deeper bas sout of the small woofers. With a subwoofer i tend to prefer sealed.
dave
Of more interest to me is the similar WAW (Woofer Assisted Wideband) where the XO is moved up. This allows the FR/midTweeter to do a better job mid-top and the XO is still low enuff that one can avoid many of the evils of XOs.
This is much easy to do if you go active/bi-amp.
If you plan on using the FR independently, given drivers available today, will likely need to be vented to do any bass. If you aren’t then sealed or an aperiodic midTL.
This is an example of one we did (it is 4 boxes), not really a subwoofer, but the sats work fine by themselves, adding the helper woofer means they give few excuses except for REALLY loud. It is an example of a theme, this the smallest trapezoid miniOnken, the larger ones would support bass drivers that go lower.

I will also note that the slot vents allow easy addition of (foam) damping in the vents to push the satelitte more heavily aperiodic.
In this case the woofer is an ML-TL, necessary to accomodate the necessary shape and to extract deeper bas sout of the small woofers. With a subwoofer i tend to prefer sealed.
dave
outdoor ?! never but for indoors look at my solution SCHALMEI with ALPHORN, http://www.hm-moreart.de/13.htm
"Can" can be irksome. I mean, technically, I can win the lottery. Doesn't mean I will (and the odds are highly against it).Combining a ported 8-inch driver with a sealed subwoofer is technically possible, but it can pose challenges in terms of sound integration and may result in suboptimal performance. Here's why:
Yes, it will take some work to integrate the two. In the least, physical placement of the two can cause reinforcement or cancellation at various frequencies (regardless of box design).
Using a plate amp with an on-board x-over will help with integration as the full range and the subwoofer won't be operating in the same bass frequencies (dependent on x-over slopes).
Even if they overlap in operation, you may not notice a sound difference between the two. Some people get nitpicky. Some people just like to rock out.
Many people have used sealed or ported subwoofers with various main speakers to great effect. Just have to be ready to experiment with room placement, x-over points and slopes to optimize results. It has been quite awhile since I've played with a stand-alone sub but many folks look favourably at the Hypex plate amps. Parts Express also has various offerings but no idea how well they work.
Just as GM pointed out, this question is exactly the same as the one posted in the thread GM shared.
I would read a bit in there
- what type of crossover would be the best for that ?
- For your application variable active crossover is recommended.
- Also how would be the best way to organise them so when the full range is disconnected from the subwoofer it covers all frequency and only give lower frequency to subwoofer for the outdoor events ?
- If I understood you correctly, again using active crossover with variable xover frequency should get your design goals covered.
- I was also wondering about to do ported and what to sealed ? If my full range is ported and my subwoofer is sealed would that create any trouble ? Or what would be the best to do ?
- You can make them work using delays and/or placement. From my experience all sealed is easier to work with, than any combination with ported box.
ChatGPT at work?Differing Bass Characteristics: Ported and sealed enclosures have distinct bass characteristics. Ported enclosures emphasize deep bass extension and can have a peak in output at the tuning frequency of the port, which may not align with the characteristics of a sealed subwoofer. Sealed enclosures provide a more controlled and accurate bass response. The differing bass profiles can lead to inconsistencies and may not provide a seamless transition between the two drivers.
Acoustic Phase and Timing: Combining drivers with different enclosure types can introduce phase and timing issues in the low-frequency range. These issues can result in audible distortions and inconsistencies in sound quality. Achieving precise phase alignment between drivers in different enclosures can be challenging.
Well, garbage in = garbage out… and neglecting the combination of electric and acoustic filter functions certainly leads to failure.
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