Just a late thought ... Understand big ugly router is a no-go ... I was unclear on the jig-saw (price and blade wander were mentioned).
What about a Dremel?
Mounted on a stick of appropriate radius with a <=1/8" bit, two quick shallow swipes to frame/guide the cut on either side, then cut through with a coping saw and plane/sand at your leisure.
If the source of stoning is inside the apartment, engrave something nice first. If outside, answer the door with a hair dryer in your hand.
You can use a jigsaw at medium/low speed. If you have a good hand, the cut will be good enough, and a rough sanding will cure most defects..
My jigsaw at medium speed is quieter than the vacuum cleaner.
My jigsaw at medium speed is quieter than the vacuum cleaner.
Vitorio... thx, I was always used to full speed. Think I would have figured that out. Slow should keep the walking sideways at bay.
Zene
Zene
Thats a great idea!
Most used to have a mounting point for an attachment like the Milescraft jigsaw guide, so you could probably use a stick to set the curve as well.
Most used to have a mounting point for an attachment like the Milescraft jigsaw guide, so you could probably use a stick to set the curve as well.
Hi, I've just built a pair of almost finished Mk3 Frugel Horns. I say 'almost finished' because the speaker box isn't glued, but screwed together so that I can still make adjustments. The woofers are Alpair-7MS. The cabinets are made from 18mm plywood, and I plan to veneer them with walnut wood.
I'm pleasantly surprised by how good these speakers sound. I compare them with Monitor Audio Silver studio monitors and feel that the Mk3s only lag behind in the higher tones.
But what I would like to ask is this: are there any tips for experimenting with the damping to achieve different sound variations? Currently, I've stuffed the back side with 35g of acoustic stuffing (in the point) and placed a 35g loose fluff ball in the front compartment. I could leave it as is, but I'm thinking about experimenting with less damping material.
Thanks, Bart.
I'm pleasantly surprised by how good these speakers sound. I compare them with Monitor Audio Silver studio monitors and feel that the Mk3s only lag behind in the higher tones.
But what I would like to ask is this: are there any tips for experimenting with the damping to achieve different sound variations? Currently, I've stuffed the back side with 35g of acoustic stuffing (in the point) and placed a 35g loose fluff ball in the front compartment. I could leave it as is, but I'm thinking about experimenting with less damping material.
Thanks, Bart.
I built my Mk3's for the Fostex FE126en and used the appropriate damping guide. Years later I swapped the Fostex's for the Mark Audio drivers but didn't change the original damping. The sound is so good I could not be happier.
I'll try to post some pictures after the speakers are laminated 🙂
Will do some comparison testing before hand. I've ordered a 'Douk litlle bear' speaker switch to do this. Will try to report back.
Will do some comparison testing before hand. I've ordered a 'Douk litlle bear' speaker switch to do this. Will try to report back.
The one on the left is a Bob Carver Sunfire but shortly after this picture I moved it to the home theater where it really belongs. The other ( under the amp stand ) is a DIY Triska sub which I use with the Frugels.
https://projectgallery.parts-express.com/speaker-projects/the-triska-sub/
https://projectgallery.parts-express.com/speaker-projects/the-triska-sub/
Last edited by a moderator:
So I tested the speakers with different amounts of dampening material. I must say that the difference in sound is certainly there, but it is minimal. And I also prefer the speaker with less dampening material. I've even tried without any dampening wool (front and back campartiments empty, normally around 2x 35g wool), but always with the felt glued to the inside of the top (around the position of the woofer).
Soft? It will be exaggerated and perhaps a bit boomy. The usual fix is more dampoing in the horn
dave
Last edited:
Damp-Duct = Mass-Loading.
Scott designs them, i draw them. We have done 100s.
Nandape has been much more prolific with this particualr ML-Voigt folding, and has designs that support more drivers (so far wehacve done FE108e∑ and FF165wk.
dave
Scott designs them, i draw them. We have done 100s.
Nandape has been much more prolific with this particualr ML-Voigt folding, and has designs that support more drivers (so far wehacve done FE108e∑ and FF165wk.
dave
Looking at the drawing it is needed a "wooden L" with the "vertical" part long around 143 mm and with the same angle of the rear side of the FHXL.
It will have the function of the reflex pipe if I understand correctly, so it will change the principle on which the FHXL work.
It will have the function of the reflex pipe if I understand correctly, so it will change the principle on which the FHXL work.