I just finished putting a rounded edge on my baffles. Although I have a lot of experience using a router in various woodworking projects, this is the first time I have used a router bit this large. It is the "Freud 1-1/2" Radius Rounding Over Bit, 1/2" Shank (Quadra-Cut) (34-140)".
I have never been disappointed in the quality of Freud bits. In the US and Canada, Freud bits are one of the higher priced options... not sure how they are priced in Europe, South America, Asia, Australia, etc... This bit is no exception... expensive but very high quality.
Notice the shavings I am holding in my hand. Rather than dust or fine chips, this bit made huge piles of shavings, similar to a block plane. (of course if I was cutting plywood or MDF, I would get dust and fine chips). The bit performed flawlessly. I was concerned about tearout on the end grain of the exiting side, but none happened. Cut quality was excellent.
Jim
I have never been disappointed in the quality of Freud bits. In the US and Canada, Freud bits are one of the higher priced options... not sure how they are priced in Europe, South America, Asia, Australia, etc... This bit is no exception... expensive but very high quality.
Notice the shavings I am holding in my hand. Rather than dust or fine chips, this bit made huge piles of shavings, similar to a block plane. (of course if I was cutting plywood or MDF, I would get dust and fine chips). The bit performed flawlessly. I was concerned about tearout on the end grain of the exiting side, but none happened. Cut quality was excellent.
Jim
Attachments
I have a 15 year old Porter Cable 3 HP router. Yes power is important, but I was taking a small amount off on each pass, so not a lot of power was being delivered to the bit. The first pass was about 3/8 inch, and then 1/8 inch per pass after that, with the final finish cut of less than 1/16 inch. I fed the stock pretty slowly. If my router was a 2 hp unit, I doubt I would have noticed.
More important is low speed. This bit has a 12,000 rpm maximum. I ran it at 10,000 rpm.
Most important is a good router table and a good fence.
More important is low speed. This bit has a 12,000 rpm maximum. I ran it at 10,000 rpm.
Most important is a good router table and a good fence.
I like Freud bits. Excellent quality and very consistent.Easily available too,even here in Canada (we're a bit of a retail wastelend)
I bought a 1/2" Freud roundover bit (Quadra-Cut) recently for a rush job and was very impressed by the quality of the cut finish.And due to the top quality edge geometries and finishing,these guys aren't wasting your horsepower creating heat or getting bogged down. They cut very efficiently
But (there's always a but,haha) I find that for my Leigh Dovetail Jig,the Whiteside dovetail bits actually outperform the Freud (and Leigh) bits by a wide margin. Cleaner cuts overall,and less tearout on the backside,with or without a backing. Also,a lot more cuts before sharpening is required.
I bought a 1/2" Freud roundover bit (Quadra-Cut) recently for a rush job and was very impressed by the quality of the cut finish.And due to the top quality edge geometries and finishing,these guys aren't wasting your horsepower creating heat or getting bogged down. They cut very efficiently
But (there's always a but,haha) I find that for my Leigh Dovetail Jig,the Whiteside dovetail bits actually outperform the Freud (and Leigh) bits by a wide margin. Cleaner cuts overall,and less tearout on the backside,with or without a backing. Also,a lot more cuts before sharpening is required.
Mine is actually a 7539, which is apparently no longer made. yes it is a beast, but as I said, I think a 2 HP machine would work as long as you take small cuts and spin the bit at 12000 rpm or less.
Everyone has to work within the tools and skill set they have available. Roundover edges and bevel edges are optional in any case. My first pair of speakers were built with a cheap jig saw (skil saw), a drill, and a screw driver. After doing woodworking for 30 years, I have put together a nice shop.
My post was intended for those who are contemplating a large round-over bit. These bits are expensive, and it is nice to buy with a solid recommendation.
Everyone has to work within the tools and skill set they have available. Roundover edges and bevel edges are optional in any case. My first pair of speakers were built with a cheap jig saw (skil saw), a drill, and a screw driver. After doing woodworking for 30 years, I have put together a nice shop.
My post was intended for those who are contemplating a large round-over bit. These bits are expensive, and it is nice to buy with a solid recommendation.
Im interested about buying this large Freud 1-1/2" rounding bit.
I dont have router table and have used my small Makita (600W) thisfar with hands, but my bits have been for this little machine which has 8mm shaft.
Now I can get one second hand router (1800W) for cheap and I was wondering if it would be hazardous to try make large rounding work with this bit without table?
I dont have router table and have used my small Makita (600W) thisfar with hands, but my bits have been for this little machine which has 8mm shaft.
Now I can get one second hand router (1800W) for cheap and I was wondering if it would be hazardous to try make large rounding work with this bit without table?
I have never tried hand routing with a bit larger than 1 inch (25 mm) cutter diameter. It may be possible... but I would advise against it.
A router table does not have to be fancy. For many years I would make a temporary table from 3/4 inch plywood clamped between two saw horses. I would use common pine or fir timber as the fence... I would plane it smooth on one side. The fence would be clamped in place. Yes it is slow to set up, but it is inexpensive.
A router table does not have to be fancy. For many years I would make a temporary table from 3/4 inch plywood clamped between two saw horses. I would use common pine or fir timber as the fence... I would plane it smooth on one side. The fence would be clamped in place. Yes it is slow to set up, but it is inexpensive.
Could you tell me where to find a 2" radius roundover bit? I have looked, but couldn't find one.
Thanks...
At that large of a diameter, you're in shaper territory, as you can't slow a router down enough to get the tip velocity in a safe range for hand feeding (and still make power from the router). Thing about using solid wood corners and doing a series of sequential angled rips to make a "multifaceted" edge and then use a combination of sanding and planing/spokeshave to finish the profile. Then you can cross-cut your long quarter round into lengths you need for the cabinets. Or call up a few millwork/molding shops nearby, as they probably have a profile very similar to what you need.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.