I don't like using resistors if I can get away with it.
Had bad results with the Interdyns which have the SEAS drivers.
Way too bright and neutered with resistors.
If I can get a good source of Mundorf Electrolytics in Oz, I can then experiment with both the Akais & the Interdyns.
Might even rip out the Poly's out of the Interdyns to experiment with the Akais.
Thanks M.
The Ringwood, Box Hill South & East Kew branches are fresh out.
I think the horse has bolted.
I have some very good 2uF caps here if you want some cheap. A closeout from DickSmith because of the "non-standard" value. I can spare a dozen or so.
You're very generous M.
I admire your skill in identifying good value parts and stocking up when the going is good.
Are they electrolytic?
1/ (stick) brace the box
2/ replace the cap
3/ puzzlekoat the woofer and the tweeter
4/ upgrade the wire… quality skinny (solid core CAT5/6 strands work well) will help the tweeter, and might give a bit more bass if used on the woofer
5/ duckseal baskets
6/ looks like they need some proper terminals
Almost all labour, the receipe (considerably) upgraded many dozens of models from this era
dave
Nope, these are the real deal, encapsulated polyester.
PM me your address and I'll put some between cardboard, that way they come at letter rate
EDIT
Don't use expensive components in a cheap speaker, especially Mundorf etc: but the big cost will be inductors, for that you need to decide on how far you'll go.
PM me your address and I'll put some between cardboard, that way they come at letter rate
EDIT
Don't use expensive components in a cheap speaker, especially Mundorf etc: but the big cost will be inductors, for that you need to decide on how far you'll go.
Measure the cap first, should it lack capacitance, add in parallel a smaller one to compensate for the loss. Isn't there a radio shack store of some sort where you live?
edit: btw, Wilmslow Audio is offering Monacor mkp 3.9uF for GBP 1.86, inc.VAT.
edit: btw, Wilmslow Audio is offering Monacor mkp 3.9uF for GBP 1.86, inc.VAT.
That's $3.33 each at the current exchange rate. Yes, but over $21- postage now plus possibly GST on top of that.
If it's more than 20mm thick or contains any metal it can no longer be sent at letter rate if I read the post office site correctly
International shipping or postage is totally crazy at the moment.
Australia Post internal parcel isn't far behind either.
If it's more than 20mm thick or contains any metal it can no longer be sent at letter rate if I read the post office site correctly
International shipping or postage is totally crazy at the moment.
Australia Post internal parcel isn't far behind either.
thanks Moon.
I'm happy to do a money transfer.
We can do a PM.
I'd be replacing a 4uF Cap per box.
Four 2uF caps (twisted in parallel per pair) would do the job.
If all you want is 4off don't bother paying anything, the caps are only $0.55- each
It was a box of a hundred and I still have about 40 left
I've measured a few and all so far have been spot on 2uF
It was a box of a hundred and I still have about 40 left
I've measured a few and all so far have been spot on 2uF
Thanks Dave.
Is Puzzlecoat that white glue/paste?
Do I paint the cones with it?
I have ModPodge. Will that work?
Is ducksealing the baskets the same as dampening the basket frame with emasitic to reduce vibration?
Do I parallel and number of CAT5/6 strands to achieve each length?
These speakers feature headphone like sockets to achieve speaker lead connection.
I paralleled Spring loaded push in speaker terminals to connect speaker wires conventionally but they're not very good quality.
What do you recommend to replace them?
Also there's a thin lining of fibreglass.
I can improve that.
Ultimately removing the heavy fabric covers would open them up but then that would take away their vintage originality.
Would it affect their marketability?
PVA particularily formulated for koating puzzles and remains more flexible than the PVA we use as glue.
Yes. You have to be careful to use as little as possible on the tweeter so as not to kill the extreme top of an already likely vintage top end.
That is what i use.
I just made some posts on the subject (an A12p thread) which links back to some earlier posts.
Ductseal. A specific product that works really well and is very stable that does that job really well.
https://www.t-linespeakers.org/tweeks.html (seems a flakey link ATM)
Pull a single pair out, use the same colours in the same place as each colour has a bit different twist.
Those will leak.
https://www.parts-express.com/Gold-Plated-Banana-5-Way-Speaker-Terminal-260-302
Likely
dave
It might not be so easy to remove the drivers, be very gentle when unscrewing those nuts, in plenty of the boxes I have been given the "bolts" are flat head with wings that get driven into the chipboard, because the chipboard degrades with time I have several times ripped the bolt out completely. Plywood is probably safer in this regard but take it slow
I was laboring over whether to keep them stock, or go for a naked driver look by ripping off the fabric.
The second option would allow me to work on the drivers in place and also open up the sound by removing the veil.
Original vintage vs tweaked.
Will the latter devalue them $ wise?
I out of spare cat5/6 cable but found plenty of CAM OFC Shielded Audio Cable.
It appears similar in diameter to Cat wire.
It's multi strand ofc copper.
Will this do if I ran pairs of it.
The colors are white, red, & yellow.
I can use red for all positive leads & yellow for woofer return & white for tweeter return??
As it's pretty thin, do I dispense with terminals and direct solder?
