Also,
If anyone wants to test their controller and has an open heater coil, you can test the circuit by connecting a 1 ohm 20 watt or more resistor across the posts connected to the orange and black/yellow wires. Set the front pot to the lowest temperature, and the LED should come on bright and start to blink faster as the resistor heats up. Place the resistor on a fireproof pad while testing, and don't burn yourself or leave it alone! I do not know if a new heater is available any more.
Jon
If anyone wants to test their controller and has an open heater coil, you can test the circuit by connecting a 1 ohm 20 watt or more resistor across the posts connected to the orange and black/yellow wires. Set the front pot to the lowest temperature, and the LED should come on bright and start to blink faster as the resistor heats up. Place the resistor on a fireproof pad while testing, and don't burn yourself or leave it alone! I do not know if a new heater is available any more.
Jon
Pace MP-1 Electronic Parts List
Hello all,
Here I will paste the parts list that I made;
Model# MP-1 Part # 7008-0148
Pace Incorporated 9893 Brewers Ct. Laurel, Md. 20707
Power Required: 120VAC 50/60Hz 85Watts or 12VDC 5Amp
Transformer: 1192-0048 MLI TX-S722;
Terminals 1 to 3 0.0 ohm Thermal internal Fuse (in series with primary)
2 to 4 5.3 ohms Primary
5 to 6 0.15 ohm Secondary
Handpiece: SODR-X-TRACTOR 6010-0039
Heating Element: Pace Inc 12VDC 25Watts
Glass Collection Tube 10.75mm I.D. 14mm O.D. 123.5mm L.
Replacement Tips: 1/8" O.D. 1 3/4" L. Cu Alloy or Brass
2 ea 1N1200C 100V 12A Stud mount Diode Rectifier
2 ea 1N1200CR 100V 12A Reverse Polarity Stud mount Diode Rectifier
C1 4700uF 25V Main Filter Capacitor (on rear PCB)
C1 .47uf 16V Ceramic Radial Capacitor
C2 10uf 25VDC Axial Electrolytic
C3 4.7uf 35V Radial Tantalum Capacitor
C4 2.2uF 25V Radial Tantalum Capacitor
C5 .1uf 16V Ceramic Radial Capacitor
D1,2,5 1N4004 400V 1A Diode
D3,4 1N5624 200V 3A Glass Diode
D6 T-5 Red Led Heating Indicator
D7 MR750 50V 6A Rect Diode
D8 1N4148 Signal Diode
AC Fuse: 0.8 Amp 5x20 (rear panel)
F1 7AMP slow blow Fuse after L.V. rectifiers (rear PCB)
Q1 D44E1 npn darlington 40V 10A 50W TO-220 Series Pass Pump Switch
Q2 2N6386 8A 40V NPN Darlington TO-220 Series Pass Heater Switch (rear PCB)
Q3,4 2N4124 TO-92 EBC GP NPN 30V .2A
R1,R4 2K 1/4W
R2 1K 1/4W
R3 5.6K 1/4W
R5 560R 1/2W
R6 100R 1/4W
R7 560R 1/4W
R8 0.1R 1% 2W
R9 25K Trim Pot. was set to 18.2K in ckt.
R10 Front Panel Temp Adjust Pot. #1179-0099 20K Lin.
Parts mounted on ceramic daughter card comparator circuit;
LM339N Dip-14
2 ea "A4-" BAV70 SOT-23 dual diodes
SMD bypass cap .1uf 25 or 50V
Several hidden printed resistors
Hello all,
Here I will paste the parts list that I made;
Model# MP-1 Part # 7008-0148
Pace Incorporated 9893 Brewers Ct. Laurel, Md. 20707
Power Required: 120VAC 50/60Hz 85Watts or 12VDC 5Amp
Transformer: 1192-0048 MLI TX-S722;
Terminals 1 to 3 0.0 ohm Thermal internal Fuse (in series with primary)
2 to 4 5.3 ohms Primary
5 to 6 0.15 ohm Secondary
Handpiece: SODR-X-TRACTOR 6010-0039
Heating Element: Pace Inc 12VDC 25Watts
Glass Collection Tube 10.75mm I.D. 14mm O.D. 123.5mm L.
Replacement Tips: 1/8" O.D. 1 3/4" L. Cu Alloy or Brass
2 ea 1N1200C 100V 12A Stud mount Diode Rectifier
2 ea 1N1200CR 100V 12A Reverse Polarity Stud mount Diode Rectifier
C1 4700uF 25V Main Filter Capacitor (on rear PCB)
C1 .47uf 16V Ceramic Radial Capacitor
C2 10uf 25VDC Axial Electrolytic
C3 4.7uf 35V Radial Tantalum Capacitor
C4 2.2uF 25V Radial Tantalum Capacitor
C5 .1uf 16V Ceramic Radial Capacitor
D1,2,5 1N4004 400V 1A Diode
D3,4 1N5624 200V 3A Glass Diode
D6 T-5 Red Led Heating Indicator
D7 MR750 50V 6A Rect Diode
D8 1N4148 Signal Diode
AC Fuse: 0.8 Amp 5x20 (rear panel)
F1 7AMP slow blow Fuse after L.V. rectifiers (rear PCB)
Q1 D44E1 npn darlington 40V 10A 50W TO-220 Series Pass Pump Switch
Q2 2N6386 8A 40V NPN Darlington TO-220 Series Pass Heater Switch (rear PCB)
Q3,4 2N4124 TO-92 EBC GP NPN 30V .2A
R1,R4 2K 1/4W
R2 1K 1/4W
R3 5.6K 1/4W
R5 560R 1/2W
R6 100R 1/4W
R7 560R 1/4W
R8 0.1R 1% 2W
R9 25K Trim Pot. was set to 18.2K in ckt.
R10 Front Panel Temp Adjust Pot. #1179-0099 20K Lin.
Parts mounted on ceramic daughter card comparator circuit;
LM339N Dip-14
2 ea "A4-" BAV70 SOT-23 dual diodes
SMD bypass cap .1uf 25 or 50V
Several hidden printed resistors
I found this patent online. It is the same principle if not the exact patent for this temperature sensing/controlling circuit. The first time I saw this technique was in an old model airplane magazine with a circuit that sensed the temperature of a glow plug. the circuit worked so well, that you could pour fuel onto the plug and it continued to glow. It was called a Glow Driver.
www.google.com/patents/US5021634
www.google.com/patents/US5021634
Thanks for the information Jon! I'll dig back in. Like I mentioned my LED isn't coming on at all like it used to, so I'm thinking my issue is more of a control board thing. I have a PDF copy of the Operation & Maintenance Manual if anybody wants a copy.
So I spent some time today making some voltage measurements on the inside. I've got a tad over 20 volts coming to the control board from the power supply. No voltage at all across the orange and black/yellow wires that go to the heater. The LED remains off. While making some measurements at other points, I was checking R5 where it crosses over the trace for R6. You can see that point in this picture.
While I was holding the probe on the R5 lead and turned to look at my meter, the probe touched the R6 trace. Basically I shorted R5 to R6 at that spot and the LED came on for a second and went off when I pulled the probe. At first I thought darn it I may have killed something. I all of a sudden I smelled the slight scent of soldering iron. I put my hand near the tip and I could feel that it was warm. I purposely shorted it again very quickly and the same thing happened, the LED came on for a second and the tip was even warmer. So I know something on the board isn't right and my heater is ok. I'll do some more digging maybe tomorrow and see what else I find. I'd love to take some components out and test them out of circuit, but I need a desoldering station to do that! Well, I could use solderwick but who wants to do that. 🙂
While I was holding the probe on the R5 lead and turned to look at my meter, the probe touched the R6 trace. Basically I shorted R5 to R6 at that spot and the LED came on for a second and went off when I pulled the probe. At first I thought darn it I may have killed something. I all of a sudden I smelled the slight scent of soldering iron. I put my hand near the tip and I could feel that it was warm. I purposely shorted it again very quickly and the same thing happened, the LED came on for a second and the tip was even warmer. So I know something on the board isn't right and my heater is ok. I'll do some more digging maybe tomorrow and see what else I find. I'd love to take some components out and test them out of circuit, but I need a desoldering station to do that! Well, I could use solderwick but who wants to do that. 🙂