Same as a baffle-step filter / circuit (which is just another name for a shelving filter that happens to be designed for a specific function, i.e. compensating for step-loss). Inductor & resistor paralleled in the hot lead. I'd start with a 0.4mH with 3ohms.
But I thought for shelving there also had to be a capacitor in there to determine the roll-off freq. Then again, I could be, and probably am wrong on that. 😀
BTW, slightly off topic, but I have been thinking about a proper stereo bass unit for this setup.
I'm thinking on going with 16 Dayton DC160-8 Classic 6.5" drivers (8 per side in line-arrays) for bass duty. My ultimate goal is to have clean, flat bass down to 20Hz. I think this would be a great choice since it will be efficient, have impact and be able to keep up with the more efficient Fostex/G Chang's.
Just putting it out there for you guys to comment on. Keep in mind that the small digital amp I plan on using on these will be pushing 70 x 2 @ 4 ohms, so efficiency is a big concern here.
I'm thinking on going with 16 Dayton DC160-8 Classic 6.5" drivers (8 per side in line-arrays) for bass duty. My ultimate goal is to have clean, flat bass down to 20Hz. I think this would be a great choice since it will be efficient, have impact and be able to keep up with the more efficient Fostex/G Chang's.
Just putting it out there for you guys to comment on. Keep in mind that the small digital amp I plan on using on these will be pushing 70 x 2 @ 4 ohms, so efficiency is a big concern here.
Interesting choice but will they do what you want? Fs is 34Hz.
I would tend to lean toward a larger single woofer and a plate amp.
I would tend to lean toward a larger single woofer and a plate amp.
dumb question time
Ron -
I haven't followed the evolution of the design reflected in drawing on post 311 but the file name states 2-way
I there another driver (location not shown) ?
enjoy your time off
Ron -
I haven't followed the evolution of the design reflected in drawing on post 311 but the file name states 2-way
I there another driver (location not shown) ?
enjoy your time off
chops said:
See any caps in a BSC circuit (ignoring the zobel, which is optional)? 😉 Look at it like a 1st order XO, where an inductor in series with the driver is a low pass filter, & a cap in series is used for high pass. Over-simplistic analogy, but you get the idea.
Cal Weldon said:
I originally thought the same thing, but after I was looking at the GR Research M165X drivers that are used in the AV123 Focus Line LS6 and LS9's, they are both capable of extending down below 20hz in-room, and those drivers have an Fs of 40Hz.
Plus one of my brothers had the small Dayton BR-1 bookshelf kits using this same Dayton classic driver, and those little suckers were easily getting down into the mid-30's on their own placed out in the room! I figure using 16 of them tuned ever so slightly lower than those BR-1 kits, and placed a little closer into the corners of the room, they should be able to hit 20Hz pretty easily.
BTW, as far as the FE206E's, after talking a little with Dave, I might be going with his fully modded pair and the Sachiko cabinet instead. Time will tell. 😉
Well, I'd think so, but that's just me, & as as I designed them, I'm probably not unbiased. YMMV as always of course. They trade off some of the 103s delicacy (not many FR units can match the 103 in this respect) for major gains in soundstage scale & impact.
Re: dumb question time
Hi Chris, you've probably already realized this by now, but there are two holes for the vents, and in between them, there is a third hole for the FR (with a chamber "behind" it decending into the larger cab). So four holes total.
Hi Chris, you've probably already realized this by now, but there are two holes for the vents, and in between them, there is a third hole for the FR (with a chamber "behind" it decending into the larger cab). So four holes total.
Scottmoose said:
Hmm... I wonder if your version of "delicacy" is my version of slightly "analytical". The 103's are great little drivers, that's for sure, but I'm definitely willing to try the big guys. If I'm going to go for it, I might as well go all the way, right? 😉
With an all-digital system (CDP, preamp and amp), I think the fully modded 206's of Dave's might come close to the delicacy of the 103's, don't you?
Scottmoose said:
Hmm, what about a by-pass cap to let through any rolled off HF like with CD EQ that otherwise may require a super tweeter to fill in?
GM
GM said:
That's what I was asking about a week or so ago. I guess I could actually use something like that with the 206's if needed. The 103's really don't need any help in that department, hence why I dropped the idea.
chops said:
Well, the big 'uns aren't quite as refined as the little 'uns, but they're still pretty good, and have the bonus of being rather more flexible when run solo -small units are well & good, but unless supported at the bottom end, or in a very large horn, they don't shift enough air to have the 'slam' factor on material with more demanding LF transients, so bigger is better on that score. I like both, in the same way that I like both Lotus and Bentley, who couldn't be much more different, but, if the space is available, my inclination would always be to go large.
chops said:
Adding the cap turns it into a bandpass -- turns off the shelving for the highest frequancies.
dave
Scottmoose said:
I see what you mean. Either way, I'm sure I'll b e happy with the sound. It's just a matter of building the darn things. LOL
planet10 said:
Which is a good thing, right? Since the larger drivers tend to need a little help on the top end, this might be the thing to do.
planet10 said:
Really, that low?! wow, I didn't expect that. I take it that's the typical in-room response?
BTW Dave, did you get my last email?
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