Mr Garrett,
Yes, I received your e-mail about this, and your AVS PM and saw this post. Please, only contact me with one method. Preferably in public, so everyone can benefit from the question and answer. I'm getting about 100 e-mails a day on this parts sale now and have been averaging 4 hours of sleep per night for the last week. More copies of the same message from different sources/user ids, just makes it take much longer for me to deal with.
The XdW woofer will probably work perfect for this. In a 14-16l sealed box, the f3 will be 55Hz. The sensitivity is over 90dB @ 2.83v. I posted TSPs for the driver last night. I still have to write a short FAQ for the driver. I'm not posting a price until this FAQ is done, because I don't want people to buy the driver until they've read the FAQ.
Yes, I received your e-mail about this, and your AVS PM and saw this post. Please, only contact me with one method. Preferably in public, so everyone can benefit from the question and answer. I'm getting about 100 e-mails a day on this parts sale now and have been averaging 4 hours of sleep per night for the last week. More copies of the same message from different sources/user ids, just makes it take much longer for me to deal with.
The XdW woofer will probably work perfect for this. In a 14-16l sealed box, the f3 will be 55Hz. The sensitivity is over 90dB @ 2.83v. I posted TSPs for the driver last night. I still have to write a short FAQ for the driver. I'm not posting a price until this FAQ is done, because I don't want people to buy the driver until they've read the FAQ.
Sorry did not know how you wanted to be contacted
Yesterday I sent the email, but on your site it said you often times do not pay attention to emails, so I decided to contact you from the sites. Thank you for the response.
Yesterday I sent the email, but on your site it said you often times do not pay attention to emails, so I decided to contact you from the sites. Thank you for the response.
Mr Garrett,
I don't believe that my site says, "I don't pay attention to my e-mails". It says "Please read and follow ALL of the instructions below. If you skip a step, it is very likely I will ignore your e-mail."
I'm forced to put that there due to the large number of people that want to buy drivers super cheap, but won't spend 45 seconds to read the ordering instructions. There is no way I'm going to go back and forth with someone three or four times via e-mail to get all of their correct ordering information, so they can buy some drivers at $0.20 on the dollar, that I essentially make no money on. I already give away too much of my time as it is.
I never ignore e-mails I receive, unless they violate one of the terms on the website that the customer has been warned about.
Mr Garrett, this response isn't directed at you per se. I just want to make it clear to everyone, exactly why I have the policies on the website that I do.
I don't believe that my site says, "I don't pay attention to my e-mails". It says "Please read and follow ALL of the instructions below. If you skip a step, it is very likely I will ignore your e-mail."
I'm forced to put that there due to the large number of people that want to buy drivers super cheap, but won't spend 45 seconds to read the ordering instructions. There is no way I'm going to go back and forth with someone three or four times via e-mail to get all of their correct ordering information, so they can buy some drivers at $0.20 on the dollar, that I essentially make no money on. I already give away too much of my time as it is.
I never ignore e-mails I receive, unless they violate one of the terms on the website that the customer has been warned about.
Mr Garrett, this response isn't directed at you per se. I just want to make it clear to everyone, exactly why I have the policies on the website that I do.
nht dirvers
jack
you need not apologize for your comments
you have been incredibly generous with your time and knowledge-
I have noticed what time you have been posting some of your responses-very late indeed
I hope you will get more sleep
these are toys and a hobby and we should be grateful for what you have brought to this forum in not only product but also your time and efforts
take good care
rob
jack
you need not apologize for your comments
you have been incredibly generous with your time and knowledge-
I have noticed what time you have been posting some of your responses-very late indeed
I hope you will get more sleep
these are toys and a hobby and we should be grateful for what you have brought to this forum in not only product but also your time and efforts
take good care
rob
Hi Jack,
I purchased 2 XdS and 1 XdW from you this weekend and got my UPS tracking#. Nice!
* This is my first time building a x-over so forgive me for asking too many questions.
Have you built the actual passive x-over for the XdS and M-60? Which one do you think is a better sounding speaker w/ and w/o a subwoofer?
In the XdS x-over, there's a cap value of 7uF, I notice that this is not a common value from parts-express.com. I only found one 7uF from Kimber Kap. Would it make a significant difference if I use 6.8uF?
Are there any brands you recommend for the x-over parts (cap, I, & R) and where to get them?
Thanks,
--
onixuser
I purchased 2 XdS and 1 XdW from you this weekend and got my UPS tracking#. Nice!
* This is my first time building a x-over so forgive me for asking too many questions.
Have you built the actual passive x-over for the XdS and M-60? Which one do you think is a better sounding speaker w/ and w/o a subwoofer?
In the XdS x-over, there's a cap value of 7uF, I notice that this is not a common value from parts-express.com. I only found one 7uF from Kimber Kap. Would it make a significant difference if I use 6.8uF?
Are there any brands you recommend for the x-over parts (cap, I, & R) and where to get them?
Thanks,
--
onixuser
W/o a subwoofer, it is no contest, the M-60 wins. You can't compete with half an octave more real bass output and way more SPL capability.
With a subwoofer, the M-60 is easier to integrate due to the fact it can go lower in frequency. In the Xd system we crossed over the XdS at 135Hz for instance to get high volumes out of the 5.25" woofer in it. With the M-60, you can crossover at 80Hz and not worry about this.
The M-60 has somewhat narrower dispersion due to the larger woofer and the wide baffle around the tweeter. The XdS has very wide dispersion, even behind the speaker.
After we built the prototype passive filters, we measured the system behavior acoustically and literally spent 90 seconds listening to one speaker to make sure everything was working correctly. As such I can't comment on the relative differences in perceived sound quality between the two speakers.
Regarding the crossover questions, see the link below. I posted some similar stuff there.
http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=32972&page=1&pp=35
My relevant response is post #26.
For the 7uF cap, 6.8uF will be close enough. Also get a 0.22uF and put them in parallel. Or you can parallel a 3uF and a 4uF. I would use the cheapest film (probably Mylar) caps that you can find. It is much better to spend 1/3 the price per cap and get three different values so you can experiment, than to blow all your money on one super part, that may not be the perfect value.
Both Madisound and Parts Express have decent selections of crossover parts. Where ever the crossover specifies an inductor, it has a particular DC resistance. Try to match that as closely as possible. Don't try to get a "better" inductor with less DCR, it will mess up the crossover transfer function. On the schematic, you can figure out which inductors need to be laminate core and which need to be air core from the combination of DCR and inductance. The inductors with higher inductance and low DCR will be laminate core so they don't cost a fortune. Low inductance inductors will all be air core.
Just use whatever sand cast noninductive power resistors you can find. We didn't put wattage ratings on the schematic, but 20W for any of the resistors should be fine.
To connect the crossover to the cabinet terminals, get Pomona MDP-2 dual banana plugs. I'm sure Madisound, and I know Parts Express sells a knock off version.
With a subwoofer, the M-60 is easier to integrate due to the fact it can go lower in frequency. In the Xd system we crossed over the XdS at 135Hz for instance to get high volumes out of the 5.25" woofer in it. With the M-60, you can crossover at 80Hz and not worry about this.
The M-60 has somewhat narrower dispersion due to the larger woofer and the wide baffle around the tweeter. The XdS has very wide dispersion, even behind the speaker.
After we built the prototype passive filters, we measured the system behavior acoustically and literally spent 90 seconds listening to one speaker to make sure everything was working correctly. As such I can't comment on the relative differences in perceived sound quality between the two speakers.
Regarding the crossover questions, see the link below. I posted some similar stuff there.
http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=32972&page=1&pp=35
My relevant response is post #26.
For the 7uF cap, 6.8uF will be close enough. Also get a 0.22uF and put them in parallel. Or you can parallel a 3uF and a 4uF. I would use the cheapest film (probably Mylar) caps that you can find. It is much better to spend 1/3 the price per cap and get three different values so you can experiment, than to blow all your money on one super part, that may not be the perfect value.
Both Madisound and Parts Express have decent selections of crossover parts. Where ever the crossover specifies an inductor, it has a particular DC resistance. Try to match that as closely as possible. Don't try to get a "better" inductor with less DCR, it will mess up the crossover transfer function. On the schematic, you can figure out which inductors need to be laminate core and which need to be air core from the combination of DCR and inductance. The inductors with higher inductance and low DCR will be laminate core so they don't cost a fortune. Low inductance inductors will all be air core.
Just use whatever sand cast noninductive power resistors you can find. We didn't put wattage ratings on the schematic, but 20W for any of the resistors should be fine.
To connect the crossover to the cabinet terminals, get Pomona MDP-2 dual banana plugs. I'm sure Madisound, and I know Parts Express sells a knock off version.
Jack,
Could I modify a X2 Boundry EQ to provide the necessary Bass EQ for a XdW/S80 subwoofer to be flat down to 20hz
Could I modify a X2 Boundry EQ to provide the necessary Bass EQ for a XdW/S80 subwoofer to be flat down to 20hz
That is entirely possible to do. I'm in the process of calculating part values right now to do it. Probably won't be done until Monday. The purchaser can do the modification or I can have it done for you before shipment by a 3rd party.
That sound prefect.... Having the XdW Eq'ed flat to 20hz.... would you recommend keeping the HP filter set to 15Hz?
Thanks for doing the hard work for us, it is really appreciated by the DIY Crowd
Thanks for doing the hard work for us, it is really appreciated by the DIY Crowd
The 15Hz HP filter gets rescaled to create the boost to make the subwoofer flat. The 15Hz filter ends up at around 20Hz with a Q of 5. Then there is a bandpass filter (boundary filter) with about 5dB of boost at 30Hz. The combination of these filters makes the system -3dB at 20Hz with a 4th order rolloff.
Jack,
I see you updated the website... is it possible to post a schematic with the changed values for the X2 to work with the XdW?
I see you updated the website... is it possible to post a schematic with the changed values for the X2 to work with the XdW?
Jack, I'm interested in one of the modded X2 units. Are the modifications specific to either the XdW or S-80, or does the boundary control adjustment allow enough flexibility for it to be used with either to achieve ~20 Hz extension? Obviously, the F3 for the two is modestly different (45 vs 55 Hz).
Thanks for the FAQ's on each part, BTW.
Keith
Thanks for the FAQ's on each part, BTW.
Keith
The bass boost spreadsheet tells me that if I want no boost at all, the ratio of R617:R618 should be 4. Is that after I remove R615 and jump C607? I would prefer not to have to do either of those mods if at all possible.
Member
Joined 2003
My XdS speakers arrived today. WOW that's a nice looking speaker. 
The beech color is a little more yellow than the photo's lead me to believe, but I'm not complaining.
The beech color is a little more yellow than the photo's lead me to believe, but I'm not complaining.
I'm working on the X2 mods. I'm not sure I'm going to be able to make one mod that will work for the S-80 AND XdW. I'll post it when done.
Regarding the bass boost in the Foster amplifier. If you don't have some electrical engineering background, this will probably be a little confusing. To get no boost, you do not enter 0 in cell C5. You enter -3 in C5. Then the ratio of R617/R618 will be 2:1. A maximally flat filter, which has good transient response, has a Q of 0.707. The Q defines the rolloff shape and therefore also the transient response of the filter. The value in cell C5, is the amplitude at the resonant frequency of the filter, which is in cell C4. For a Q of 0.707, the filter is -3dB down at the resonant frequency.
The filter built into the Foster amplifier is a 3rd order (18dB/octave) HP filter. For 99% of the applications, a 2nd order (12dB/octave) HP filter. By shorting C607 and removing R615, you are changing the filter from a 3rd order to a 2nd order. Once the filter is 2nd order, you only have to change two resistors, instead of three to rescale the frequency or level to whatever you want.
The bottom line is there's no way to remove the bass boost unless you follow all of the steps in the spreadsheet.
Regarding the bass boost in the Foster amplifier. If you don't have some electrical engineering background, this will probably be a little confusing. To get no boost, you do not enter 0 in cell C5. You enter -3 in C5. Then the ratio of R617/R618 will be 2:1. A maximally flat filter, which has good transient response, has a Q of 0.707. The Q defines the rolloff shape and therefore also the transient response of the filter. The value in cell C5, is the amplitude at the resonant frequency of the filter, which is in cell C4. For a Q of 0.707, the filter is -3dB down at the resonant frequency.
The filter built into the Foster amplifier is a 3rd order (18dB/octave) HP filter. For 99% of the applications, a 2nd order (12dB/octave) HP filter. By shorting C607 and removing R615, you are changing the filter from a 3rd order to a 2nd order. Once the filter is 2nd order, you only have to change two resistors, instead of three to rescale the frequency or level to whatever you want.
The bottom line is there's no way to remove the bass boost unless you follow all of the steps in the spreadsheet.
The section of the Foster plate amp in question is a 3rd order Sallen-Key topology. Assuming that the three C's and R's are as shown in the schematic, the response is flat with a corner frequency of 30Hz.
I'm pretty sure that there is no 6dB boost in that section of the amp.
According to the schematic, C1=C2=C3=0.068 uF, R1=56k, R2=22k, R3=390k. Plug them into the calculator below to get the filter response:
http://sim.okawa-denshi.jp/en/Sallenkey3Hikeisan.htm
Nodal analysis should confirm this result.
It is certainly possible that I have made a miscalculation or that the schematic is wrong. I'll have an amp in a few days and will (try) to check the schematic.
Barry
I'm pretty sure that there is no 6dB boost in that section of the amp.
According to the schematic, C1=C2=C3=0.068 uF, R1=56k, R2=22k, R3=390k. Plug them into the calculator below to get the filter response:
http://sim.okawa-denshi.jp/en/Sallenkey3Hikeisan.htm
Nodal analysis should confirm this result.
It is certainly possible that I have made a miscalculation or that the schematic is wrong. I'll have an amp in a few days and will (try) to check the schematic.
Barry
Foster Plate Amp
Jack or anybody else,
Is the high level speaker output a fixed high pass? If it is fixed what is the hertz setting? I also would like to know if the amp as shipped has 6 db boost at 35Hz. If not what would I need to change to get the 6db boost at 35Hz?
Jack or anybody else,
Is the high level speaker output a fixed high pass? If it is fixed what is the hertz setting? I also would like to know if the amp as shipped has 6 db boost at 35Hz. If not what would I need to change to get the 6db boost at 35Hz?
I'm 90% sure that the speaker level output is just directly in parallel with the speaker level input, so there would be no crossover of any type. The schematic, posted on the website, doesn't even show the speaker level output at all. Only the speaker level input.
The measured frequency response of the amplifier is posted right on the website, just above the photo of the amplifier. It has about 6 dB of boost. The amount of actual boost is a function of where the LP control is set to.
Tomorrow I'll have a chance to check the passive crossover and the actual part values in the active HP filter that Barry brought up above.
The measured frequency response of the amplifier is posted right on the website, just above the photo of the amplifier. It has about 6 dB of boost. The amount of actual boost is a function of where the LP control is set to.
Tomorrow I'll have a chance to check the passive crossover and the actual part values in the active HP filter that Barry brought up above.
Hey Jack, i'm really torn on which driver to use in my planned dual 10" bas bins for under the XDS. I'd like to cross as high as possible...maybe to 250hz....? It's clear that the XDS woofer will do fine, but the 11-083 has such nice low end extension as compared to the XDS woofer...so the obvious question is do you think the 11-083s would be able to perform well in a parallel pair to 250hz?