Hey people,
The next speakers will be way better then the last 😉 (the last aren't bad, they are really good, but ...), but I got ideas I want to try out.
For example a cheap composite material made of two pieces of MDF. I thought, I'll take one piece, 10mm thick and mill out 2-3mm of the complete surface, except of maybe 6-8mm on the edges. The milled out space will be filled with silicone, and a 8mm thick second plate will be put on top. On the inner plate will be also mounted some screws as inward pointing studs. The edges will be glued as usual. the completed plates will then be screwed to a frame of soldered aluminium-profiles.
This will be affordable, and I hope give a good speaker-case.
Thoughts?
best regards
Jochen
The next speakers will be way better then the last 😉 (the last aren't bad, they are really good, but ...), but I got ideas I want to try out.
For example a cheap composite material made of two pieces of MDF. I thought, I'll take one piece, 10mm thick and mill out 2-3mm of the complete surface, except of maybe 6-8mm on the edges. The milled out space will be filled with silicone, and a 8mm thick second plate will be put on top. On the inner plate will be also mounted some screws as inward pointing studs. The edges will be glued as usual. the completed plates will then be screwed to a frame of soldered aluminium-profiles.
This will be affordable, and I hope give a good speaker-case.
Thoughts?
best regards
Jochen
constrained layer-
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constrained-layer_damping
http://www.soundstagenetwork.com/revequip/ian03.htm
(they'll be Heavy)
You could try North Creek"Glop" recipe post 4&14 (application can be messy)
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...speaker-project-question.394304/#post-7230227
Wolf's Stance Speaker
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...e-a-mini-2-way-with-rs125-4-and-beston-rt003c
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/1293229-the-stance-speaker-build-thread
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Constrained-layer_damping
http://www.soundstagenetwork.com/revequip/ian03.htm
(they'll be Heavy)
You could try North Creek"Glop" recipe post 4&14 (application can be messy)
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...speaker-project-question.394304/#post-7230227
Wolf's Stance Speaker
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...e-a-mini-2-way-with-rs125-4-and-beston-rt003c
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/1293229-the-stance-speaker-build-thread
Last edited:
simple shelf bracing/ bracing & damping would be the easiest. You should add some extra box volume for the extra material in the cabinet.
https://rockfordfosgate.com/support/box-wizard/
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Illuminator-7751.htm#CABINET
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/floorstanding-speakers/pit-vipers
https://rockfordfosgate.com/support/box-wizard/
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Illuminator-7751.htm#CABINET
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/floorstanding-speakers/pit-vipers
Attachments
Last edited:
At the moment I'm sitting and drawing the idea I had just 30min. ago when I had to walk a few kilometers to get home. The speakers will be, just as my actual speakers , fully active.
Now I've got to deceide the amplifier question, and it doesn't get easier. Three possibilities: my first idea, composite chipamps (TDA7293 with OPA1656, 3x), my second influence, the Apex FH9 as XRK971 built it, as a small but powerful amp with a pair of IRFP240/IRFP9240 Mosfets and a reality which I cannot ignore, even if I didn't like these first, class D. For example three TPA3244 or, again a thread by XRK971, three Infineon MA12070.
Atm I think it will be class D, because of the efficiency and the easy power management. Especially my new idea needs small amps.
I'm thinking of a modular speaker. It'll be a 2.5-way speaker, and each "way" gets it's own "compartment" with the amp integrated and these modules will be mounted at a "backbone" of 60x40mm chromed steel tube. This backbone will be right in the middle (like ours) and the signal plug will be attached through it, while the power cables will run in the steel tubes. The Amps will be connected to power just with the attaching of the module to the backbone.
Much details have to be thought over, but it's not a completely bad idea.
best regards
Jochen
P.S.: these are my actual speakers & my first try in DIY
Now I've got to deceide the amplifier question, and it doesn't get easier. Three possibilities: my first idea, composite chipamps (TDA7293 with OPA1656, 3x), my second influence, the Apex FH9 as XRK971 built it, as a small but powerful amp with a pair of IRFP240/IRFP9240 Mosfets and a reality which I cannot ignore, even if I didn't like these first, class D. For example three TPA3244 or, again a thread by XRK971, three Infineon MA12070.
Atm I think it will be class D, because of the efficiency and the easy power management. Especially my new idea needs small amps.
I'm thinking of a modular speaker. It'll be a 2.5-way speaker, and each "way" gets it's own "compartment" with the amp integrated and these modules will be mounted at a "backbone" of 60x40mm chromed steel tube. This backbone will be right in the middle (like ours) and the signal plug will be attached through it, while the power cables will run in the steel tubes. The Amps will be connected to power just with the attaching of the module to the backbone.
Much details have to be thought over, but it's not a completely bad idea.
best regards
Jochen
P.S.: these are my actual speakers & my first try in DIY
Attachments
If taking the time and work to make a CLD enclosure. Instead of using silicone, use green Glue or similar compounds intended for the job.
Also E-A-R / 3M, Isoloss and isodamp are excellent, those comes in mats so easy to sanwhich between 2 panels etc. They also have excellent anti vibration mounts and similar.
You should dampen the whole panel, not just parts of it like you suggested.
Also E-A-R / 3M, Isoloss and isodamp are excellent, those comes in mats so easy to sanwhich between 2 panels etc. They also have excellent anti vibration mounts and similar.
You should dampen the whole panel, not just parts of it like you suggested.
I intend to damp the whole panel. I have to make the edges solid because I'll mill the edges with a 15mm radius (front & upper panel). I have already read about those mats, but I just cannot afford it. Also for painting the edges have to be solid. If I have MDF/silicone/MDF, I cannot do a proper paintjob.
I haven't tried it, but this seems interesting also.
https://piega.ch/de/series/coax-series
ELIMINATING SELF RESONANCE – TIM
The latest Coax Series features the Tension Improve Module (TIM) perfected by PIEGA. These modules keep the entire cabinet under a controlled tension, thus suppressing even the smallest cabinet vibrations. Any residual micro resonances are completely eliminated with new visco-elastic damping foils.
https://piega.ch/de/series/coax-series
ELIMINATING SELF RESONANCE – TIM
The latest Coax Series features the Tension Improve Module (TIM) perfected by PIEGA. These modules keep the entire cabinet under a controlled tension, thus suppressing even the smallest cabinet vibrations. Any residual micro resonances are completely eliminated with new visco-elastic damping foils.
I think that just pushes resonances a bit up. And with MDF it won’t work, that will just deform in time.
I would just use braces and damping pads, sheets, North Creek "Glop", etc.
check "Cabinets" section (Black Hole damping sheets), Dennis Murphy MBOW1
http://murphyblaster.com/content.php?f=MBOW1.html
check "Cabinets" section (Black Hole damping sheets), Dennis Murphy MBOW1
http://murphyblaster.com/content.php?f=MBOW1.html
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