Hello,
I read the winISD manual and tried to simulate the response with below specifications:
Pioneer TS-W126M driver specs: TS-W126M | Pioneer
What I used inside the program as parameters are attached.
For the box, I used ported 200 liters with 18hz tuning freq.
For the filter, I selected highpass / butterworth / 18hz.
When/if you have a chance would you please check whether I did insert the parameters correctly and the output matches what you produce?
Also, do you recommend this driver for a smallish room (15 m2 area, 35 m3 volume)? Since it is cheap (around $38 including shipping) I am planning to purchase it for my first home theater subwoofer.
My other choices are JBL CS1214 ($50) and Pioneer TS-W311D4 ($63) (or second hand infinity 1260w - $55).
Best,
I read the winISD manual and tried to simulate the response with below specifications:
Pioneer TS-W126M driver specs: TS-W126M | Pioneer
What I used inside the program as parameters are attached.
For the box, I used ported 200 liters with 18hz tuning freq.
For the filter, I selected highpass / butterworth / 18hz.
When/if you have a chance would you please check whether I did insert the parameters correctly and the output matches what you produce?
Also, do you recommend this driver for a smallish room (15 m2 area, 35 m3 volume)? Since it is cheap (around $38 including shipping) I am planning to purchase it for my first home theater subwoofer.
My other choices are JBL CS1214 ($50) and Pioneer TS-W311D4 ($63) (or second hand infinity 1260w - $55).
Best,
Attachments
4 dB bump at the bottom is not good practise. With the Q of this driver as big a sealed box as you can live with is indicated… and if that still has too large a bump at the bottom, making the box aperiodic can help.
dave
dave
The problem with that Pioneer driver is not only the high Qts, but the low Xmax as well. The JBL driver isn't much better. That Infinity driver however, if it's in good condition, it might be a pretty good match for a HT subwoofer capable of getting down to 35 Hz.
Thank you for the replies.
I have been reading more and playing with the winISD. I believe I am in between two drivers: Infinity 1260w and JBL GT5-12.
I have created profiles for them and compared with each other (as can be seen in the attachment). Several questions that come to my mind are:
1) Which one is important: curve smoothness of transfer function magnitude or SPL function? What are the threshold values (such as 2 dB's or whatever the value) to say one is statistically or hearing wise better/worse than the other?
2) Due to room limitations I am planning to use either one (preferably) or two subwoofers and I believe at most I can make a cube of 55 cm in outer dimensions (5.86 cubic feet or 166 liters). Do you think, as a rough estimate, it can provide at least 140 liters inside?
3) I also attached JBL and Infinity tech specs. When I insert infinity specs to winISD, I am getting same results with auto-calculation option. But, I believe there is a discrepancy between what winISD calculates and the JBL tech sheet. When I insert Mms and Cms (223 grams and 135 um/N) winISD calculates the Qes and Qts as 0.704 and 0.634, respectively;however, tech specs indicate that their values are 0.64 and 0.58. Do you know which ones should be correct?
4) Which one should I buy 😕
Best,
EDIT: third attachment is for infinity and fourth is jbl (forgot to legend them).
I have been reading more and playing with the winISD. I believe I am in between two drivers: Infinity 1260w and JBL GT5-12.
I have created profiles for them and compared with each other (as can be seen in the attachment). Several questions that come to my mind are:
1) Which one is important: curve smoothness of transfer function magnitude or SPL function? What are the threshold values (such as 2 dB's or whatever the value) to say one is statistically or hearing wise better/worse than the other?
2) Due to room limitations I am planning to use either one (preferably) or two subwoofers and I believe at most I can make a cube of 55 cm in outer dimensions (5.86 cubic feet or 166 liters). Do you think, as a rough estimate, it can provide at least 140 liters inside?
3) I also attached JBL and Infinity tech specs. When I insert infinity specs to winISD, I am getting same results with auto-calculation option. But, I believe there is a discrepancy between what winISD calculates and the JBL tech sheet. When I insert Mms and Cms (223 grams and 135 um/N) winISD calculates the Qes and Qts as 0.704 and 0.634, respectively;however, tech specs indicate that their values are 0.64 and 0.58. Do you know which ones should be correct?
4) Which one should I buy 😕
Best,
EDIT: third attachment is for infinity and fourth is jbl (forgot to legend them).
Attachments
Drivers with Qts > 0.5 generally don't belong in vented boxes for home audio use (car audio use is another matter). I'd go with the Infinity driver.
Hello again,
As suggested, I bought two infinity reference series 1260w subwoofers along with a 90-liter box for car use (came with the deal) for $95.
Even though I didn't live test them, the ohmmeter and the sound of cones suggested that they are fine.
Now, I have another dilemma. Since power amplifiers are expensive here, after a lot of research I am planning to buy a second hand "Audio System Twister F2 300" car amplifier for $100.
It is Italian made and can provide 780W RMS in 2-ohm bridged mode. It has also a high pass and low pass filter down to 20Hz. The specifications can be found in the attachment.
I am also planning to get a custom made converter of "220V AC" to "12V DC 60A" for $40. Do you think it is overkill?
Do you recommend this solution or should I invest in a power amplifier with a built-in DSP (such as behringer NU1000DSP - can get for $250)?
Thank you.
As suggested, I bought two infinity reference series 1260w subwoofers along with a 90-liter box for car use (came with the deal) for $95.
Even though I didn't live test them, the ohmmeter and the sound of cones suggested that they are fine.
Now, I have another dilemma. Since power amplifiers are expensive here, after a lot of research I am planning to buy a second hand "Audio System Twister F2 300" car amplifier for $100.
It is Italian made and can provide 780W RMS in 2-ohm bridged mode. It has also a high pass and low pass filter down to 20Hz. The specifications can be found in the attachment.
I am also planning to get a custom made converter of "220V AC" to "12V DC 60A" for $40. Do you think it is overkill?
Do you recommend this solution or should I invest in a power amplifier with a built-in DSP (such as behringer NU1000DSP - can get for $250)?
Thank you.
Attachments
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I would get the Inuke nu1000dsp! It’s cheap, decent quality, and gives you a dsp to do room corrections and it has a lot of power. Much better than a car amp and a converter. And according to this: Audio System Twister F2-300 - AMP-Performance 60A should not be enough anyway, and the claimed 780W is never reached.
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Hello again and thank you for your opinions. I also would like to get the inuke however my budget is limited and found an older behringer ep2500 for $120.
Probably it is going to be a better alternative than a car amp + AC-DC converter and it is half price of the inuke1000dsp. Now I am thinking to get the ep2500 and try to adjust the bass response with acoustical treatment rather than equalizer and/or filters. What do you think?
Best,
EDIT: I believe I can use the sp2500 in stereo mode (650W @4ohm) or should I use the bridged mono mode for two infinity 1260w's? I read conflicting posts regarding "stereo", "parallel" and "bridged" connections and settings... I would definitely want to have same signals going to both subwoofers.
Probably it is going to be a better alternative than a car amp + AC-DC converter and it is half price of the inuke1000dsp. Now I am thinking to get the ep2500 and try to adjust the bass response with acoustical treatment rather than equalizer and/or filters. What do you think?
Best,
EDIT: I believe I can use the sp2500 in stereo mode (650W @4ohm) or should I use the bridged mono mode for two infinity 1260w's? I read conflicting posts regarding "stereo", "parallel" and "bridged" connections and settings... I would definitely want to have same signals going to both subwoofers.
Attachments
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Or go for the non-DSP version of the iNuke. Maybe your HT receiver can do the filtering and DSP'ing for you (it might have Audyssey or equivalent). A high-pass filter is recommended to save the woofer from excessive excursion, so an amp with some filter settings is probably a good idea.
One more thing I wanted to ask.
I read that if I can't lift the LFE output of my AVR (a 11 year-old denon 987) enough, I am unlikely to drive the EP2500 to full power and will get unsatisfactory results.
Is there a way to learn whether my AVR sub out would be good enough (at least until I get a newer model)?
Note: I read 4real's response while typing, my AVR has a small microphone for auddysey setup.
I read that if I can't lift the LFE output of my AVR (a 11 year-old denon 987) enough, I am unlikely to drive the EP2500 to full power and will get unsatisfactory results.
Is there a way to learn whether my AVR sub out would be good enough (at least until I get a newer model)?
Note: I read 4real's response while typing, my AVR has a small microphone for auddysey setup.
Hi again,
I think I will be buying the nu1000dsp but have some suspicions in my mind.
Based on the manufacturer ratings and third party reviews on these units it can deliver perhaps around 70% of its rated maximum output power, which means around 450W RMS (in 8 ohm bridged mode, subwoofers in series). Would it be sufficient to drive 2 infinity 1260w's (rated 300W RMS each)?
My other question would be whether the nu1000dsp's are 2 ohm stable in bridged mode and what would be the RMS rating? Perhaps I can wire the subwoofers in parallel.
Thanks!
I think I will be buying the nu1000dsp but have some suspicions in my mind.
Based on the manufacturer ratings and third party reviews on these units it can deliver perhaps around 70% of its rated maximum output power, which means around 450W RMS (in 8 ohm bridged mode, subwoofers in series). Would it be sufficient to drive 2 infinity 1260w's (rated 300W RMS each)?
My other question would be whether the nu1000dsp's are 2 ohm stable in bridged mode and what would be the RMS rating? Perhaps I can wire the subwoofers in parallel.
Thanks!
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