First time build PAWO FE127E

[iihay]

Wish me luck chaps, after building some lovely amps last year (GB150 kit not my design!) I am just starting my first ever speaker build. After much lurking I decided to build the PAWO with FE127E drivers. I am building out of baltic ply and so far have the pieces cut oversize for the speakers. Today I am going to start marking up and trimming to size.

Any general tips for my build?

I plan to:

Measure, measure and measure again on each piece.

&

Clamp everything with as many clamps as possible!

I plan to do the front last as I have never even used a router before so I need to practice on some scrap. Should the driver be recessed for this build and if so how on earth do I recess the shape of the driver as it's not round 😉

Any tips would be greatly appreciated, I think I have read all the info on the PAWO I can find on here but simple pointers are always appreciated.

Cheers

Iain

p.s. Actually I am doing 2 builds I have some CSS125's as well which are not supposed to work that well in these but I am going to make them both and have listen.

 

[loninappleton]

At this stage of the game, I'd check the table saw for square and sharp blade. The piece should touch the same on the front side of the blade as the exit side plus checking for vertical.

 

[iihay]

At this stage of the game, I'd check the table saw for square and sharp blade. The piece should touch the same on the front side of the blade as the exit side plus checking for vertical.

Nice tip, I've been using some old bits of wood to cut used to using it as I've never done this before and I am not 100% convinced it is a square cut at the moment. Will try and tweak it 🙂

Iain

 

[loninappleton]

I watch those dvds from Fine Woodworking magazine which are available at libraries with titles like "mastering your table saw." There may be something in clips on YouTube for this as well.

FWW might have a clip.

 

[Akita]

Hi iihay,

I am building this pawo design too. I just have all the pcs glued.
Before I go futher, Can I paint the internal path?

 

[iihay]

Same point as me then, mine are all glued as well. I am not sure about paint. My buring questions are:

1. What is the best type of damping to use in the chamber, a lot seems pretty thick and there is not mush space in there.

2. Do I need to seal the inside in some way? Mine are in baltic birch ply.

3. Do I need to fit the drivers flush or where can I get a supra baffle like the lovely one on somebody has round here, planet10 site has the pics.

I must upload some pics, what have you built yours in?

Iain

 

[Scottmoose]

Suprabaffle = solid hardwood; get a nice piece of seasoned material ~1in thick & your local friendly cabinetmaker to turn it on his lathe.

Damping is very much down to taste. I like ~1/2in wool felt myself.

Re sealing or painting the inside, sure, if you feel like it.

 

[iihay]

Thanks, any thoughts on the bitumen type damping? Looks like an easy thing to apply. It's a strange requirement but I have a worry that if the cats bring a mouse in it could take up residence in the speaker, felt is probably comfy but bitumen would put them off!

Cheers

Iain

 

[Scottmoose]

Well, as it really only needs some in the upper chamber, methinks a cat or mouse would be going some to reach it.

Bitumen is really for a different type of damping requirement.

 

[iihay]

Ok, will get me some felt, they're tricky devils though (mice) get everywhere. Any good sources for felt in the UK? Not something I have every bought, some kind of upholstery or sewing shop I guess?

Cheers

Iain

 

[Scottmoose]

Try a carpet seller -wool underlay.

 

[iihay]

Thanks that should be easy 🙂

Cheers

Iain

 

[planet10]

3. Do I need to fit the drivers flush or where can I get a supra baffle like the lovely one on somebody has round here, planet10 site has the pics.

The boxes will be better if you flush mount. Even better if you flush mount on the supraBaffle (the extra inch of depth really seems to open up the midrange (or it could be superior wave launch).

dave

 

[Akita]

Thank for your tips.

 

[iihay]

The boxes will be better if you flush mount. Even better if you flush mount on the supraBaffle (the extra inch of depth really seems to open up the midrange (or it could be superior wave launch).

dave

Excellent, thanks. I love the look of the supra baffle on those gorgeous bamboo ones you made. Can't aspire to that on a first build though but some kind of supra baffle would certainly look good and if it helps the sound that is they way I shall go.

Cheers

Iain

 

[Akita]

Hi Iain,

Have you tested your Pawo? How It sound?.

I tested it without the baffle, using solid state JLH-Class A. The vocal is excellence. Mid bass is very good too. But the lower bass is not strong enough.

I have just tested my Fonken Mk-II. If compare to Pawo design, MKII have more bass and more dinamik. The vocal sound good too but not live-ly as pawo.

what you think?

 

[iihay]

Not finished yet, I blew a channel on my amp which has been occupying my time. Hope to get to listen to them at the weekend. If the lower bass is lacking maybe a sub build is needed 🙂 Encouraged by your post, good vocals are what I am seeking at the moment. Have you tried this with any classical stuff?

Iain

 

[Akita]

I sale my tube amp last time to pay the carpenter, lol.
Planning to build a 2A3C later.

 

[iihay]

Any advice on the damping for these. I have put some across the back of the chamber, do I need to do the sides of the chamber as well?

I did try and view the prototype pics from the link on planet-ten but they're dead at the moment. It looks like some is on teh sides. Hoping to get a listen this weekend 🙂

Iain

 

[Akita]

I use a thin(5mm) layer of cotton wool and cover everything in the 1st chamber. The pawo sound difference when thicker damping is use. Try to adjust to your preferance.