So, that's been entered in the software, right? I thought those entries showed on the schematic when entered. Maybe that's a different software I'm thinking of.
Can I see the raw woofers response? I always use gated measurements. Are you using your in box measurements, or something from a different driver, and speaker? I think you said you didn't yet have a mic. Are you just practicing with other data?
no, it is not inserted at the moment - I only find out now that there could be somewhere to put this measurement/distance of the two drivers. this evening after dinner I will reopen it and check if it is there and if it should then be visible on the work surface. I will also try to change the driver data with different files and perhaps I will find something that is closer to this WF 1334 16ohm and the 4ohm 38mm tweeter without a brand, car audio which if I remember correctly was also expensive and an alternative to the Morel mdt29.
& yes,
I'm using different files at the moment.
if I find the Morel file and the WharFedale 1334 16ohm file I'm fine
& yes,
I'm using different files at the moment.
if I find the Morel file and the WharFedale 1334 16ohm file I'm fine
Morel file? Are you looking for a frd for the mdt29?, or something that would be close to it?
So, currently, the tweeter you are using is an unknown brand from long ago, that is supposed to be close to the Morel? Is it 38mm, or was that a typo?
So, currently, the tweeter you are using is an unknown brand from long ago, that is supposed to be close to the Morel? Is it 38mm, or was that a typo?
Right click on the driver and look for the feature called "modify delay" and sorry, the scale was wrong. Add an inch or more to get into the range of a typical 2-way with 6" driver.
it's not a mistake, i measured it and it's 38mm but without references, there is no acronym or reference. but it sounds good!
Trial and error x-over work, with measurements, works well, so lack of driver files is not a problem. You just need some reasonably good measurements, and some know how.
But..... You need parts on hand, which can be expensive unless you can buy, and return what is not needed.
But..... You need parts on hand, which can be expensive unless you can buy, and return what is not needed.
🙂
with vituxCad you can create files from the image of the frequency response and impedance curves. imagine if I found an image of my mid-woofer driver. zero! instead of the tweeter there is something to work on.
with vituxCad you can create files from the image of the frequency response and impedance curves. imagine if I found an image of my mid-woofer driver. zero! instead of the tweeter there is something to work on.
ok, i played the driver files as per manual. now you can see the curve of the drivers only.
S1 woofer
S1 woofer
yes, but by building the files with vituxCad from the frequency responses/images found on the net.
They are not realistic. The difference in sensitivity is quite large and where did you get a woofer that does 20kHz?
Do you have pics of these drivers that could give us a hint about make/model, etc., I could check on some old italian catalogues of the RS distributor with many vintage drivers of different brands.
Jeff is using the 1334 woofers, nominal impedance 16 ohm, removed from a Wharfedale Diamond 8 centre speaker as pictured below.
He is not using the associated Wharfedale 0326H tweeter, and I'm not sure if he mentions which tweeter models are shown in his final build in post #33.
I see, they are custom drivers: I checked but I did not find anything like those in the pic. Anyway they remind me this Monacor mw.
https://www.monacor.com/products/components/speaker-technology/hi-fi-midrange-speakers-/sph-135kep/
but 🙂, searching better I found something.
now I would like to understand which curve to use for the simulation - I see frequency responses measured at 0, -30, -60°
which of the three is better to use?
and what color do they correspond to?
now I would like to understand which curve to use for the simulation - I see frequency responses measured at 0, -30, -60°
which of the three is better to use?
and what color do they correspond to?
0, 30, 60 = Red, Green, Blue.
30 is typically more representative on the whole. The bass rolloff will be pumped up a little by the inside of the box, and the lower midrange will be stepped down by the outside of the box.
30 is typically more representative on the whole. The bass rolloff will be pumped up a little by the inside of the box, and the lower midrange will be stepped down by the outside of the box.