I use salvaged CAT5 cable I've braided as cable. Cost nothing and sounds good enough. Most of all, looks pretty.
thank you very much, ive got notes to contact them. (MPW is just down the road)
i should have been more specific and mentioned ply suppliers that have been tried and true by any forum members.
ive seen that heavy density is preferable and am sure i can capably choose a timber, but if anyone knows of a good source with results speak up! 🙂
I just checked this idea up on the net.
seems really cool.
it just so happens that i a HUGE roll of cat5.
I also would like to mention that i have access to a bunch of very high quality (aircraft) cable that is scrap and going to waste. i would need to verify its aquisition, but i think this would not be a problem. is it worth experimenting with? this comes in a Huge variety of forms, thick, thin, shielded, various data type transmissions.
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If 2 materials have the same stiffness and damping then the less dense one ospreferable.
Senseness is not an asset by itself, but it often comes along with the good stuff.
dave
We just use a pair of strands pulled from the bundle. You want solid core, teflon insulation if you can find it, PVC is more common.
dave
Definitely curious... such cable should be high grade.
Just make sure you have a good seal where the cables exit the cabinet - loss of pressure in the cabinet would not be good for the FHXL; also in case the seal breaks, there should be no stress directly on the speaker terminals if the cable gets pulled.
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My room is 14 by 22 feet and the speakers play surprisingly load, I've never had the volume control past half way! Great bass with no need for a tweeter and that cohesive crossover free mid-range, it's had to find any fault with these!
I'm sure you wouldn't be disappointed!
Go for it!
Larry
I'm sure you wouldn't be disappointed!
Go for it!
Larry
thanks for the tip.
ill secure the cable inside the box so this is not possible, and i will likey have the exit just large enough for the cables, and i intend on sealing with beewax/pine resin.
Thanks everyone for your advice and assistance.
I'm currently sourcing ply and a cutting service.
The boxes will cost more than I initially thought but I should still remain under my $500 Budget.
One question which I should have really asked initially as I basing this build on an assumption.
But what would an equivalent set of speakers (in regards performance) cost retail?
I have been assuming I will be making a viable saving by DIYing these.
Thanks
Luke
I'm currently sourcing ply and a cutting service.
The boxes will cost more than I initially thought but I should still remain under my $500 Budget.
One question which I should have really asked initially as I basing this build on an assumption.
But what would an equivalent set of speakers (in regards performance) cost retail?
I have been assuming I will be making a viable saving by DIYing these.
Thanks
Luke
Retail speakers will almost always cost less.
Vendors have the benefit of buying in bulk.
I bought a pair of 400 watt speakers for £80.
I built my own for £200 !!!
However I know that I used very good drivers for my own speaker cabinets.
Vendors have the benefit of buying in bulk.
I bought a pair of 400 watt speakers for £80.
I built my own for £200 !!!
However I know that I used very good drivers for my own speaker cabinets.
I understand I can obviously get speakers SIGNIFICANTLY cheaper in the same power output category. But I mean performance in the regard of audio reproduction. As in quality of audio experience.
Sounds a lot like the stuff I'm using at the moment for speaker wire from the amp. It's mil-spec silver tinned stranded wire with a braided shield and a teflon jacket. It's really overkill for speaker wire, as I bought it to make interconnects.
A few years ago, I heard a pair of $4k tower speakers at a local shop that sounded muddy and bloated, but otherwise not too bad, I told the salesman I wanted to plug the ports, and he gave me a funny look.🙂 The FHXL's would have just killed those speakers.
jeff
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That would be the stuff. All sorts, but those sort of specs. I was cautioned against using sheilded wire. Something about potential amp instability issues. Are you getting good results?
I have compared someof these (more the FH3) tospeakers in this range.
And here a fellow trying to take FH3 to retail...The Valentini
IIRC retail was going to be 4-5k euro
If you do the regular retail math if you were to take the flat-paks we make, all finished up with A7.3eN, retail boxes, shipping, distrib markup, dealer markup, they would exceed $5k and be competitivly priced.
dave
And here a fellow trying to take FH3 to retail...The Valentini
IIRC retail was going to be 4-5k euro
If you do the regular retail math if you were to take the flat-paks we make, all finished up with A7.3eN, retail boxes, shipping, distrib markup, dealer markup, they would exceed $5k and be competitivly priced.
dave
Never had any issues, but I don't understand why there would be.😕
It certainly makes nice IC's too.
jeff
That's why I said I used very good quality speakers in my own cabinets.
They sounded much better than the cheapo speakers.
Wow. Thanks for the details.
Im super super excited to listen to these, have you got a specific recommendation for "running in" these speakers.
Is leaving it playing while I'm away at work on white noise, using a reliable 40w rms Yamaha amp (I wouldn't feel comfortable leaving my new tube amp running un supervised.)
Luke,
Mark Audio advises not to use any form of noise to break in the drivers - rather use soft music with non-repetitive structures (vocal, soft jazz, acoustic music) at low volumes for the first 100 hours. Avoid using beat or bass heavy music during this time. After 100 hours add more rhythmic music and raise the volumes a bit. Don't play the drivers 24/7, better to give them a rest after ~8 hours of playback and then start again.
Good point on not running the tube amp without supervision.
Mark Audio advises not to use any form of noise to break in the drivers - rather use soft music with non-repetitive structures (vocal, soft jazz, acoustic music) at low volumes for the first 100 hours. Avoid using beat or bass heavy music during this time. After 100 hours add more rhythmic music and raise the volumes a bit. Don't play the drivers 24/7, better to give them a rest after ~8 hours of playback and then start again.
Good point on not running the tube amp without supervision.
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