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#21
PS Some HiVi drivers are available through Darcher in Tasmania.

If you wanted to use a large-ish woofer, you could have a look at the RS225/ScanSpeak thread on this Forum: the discussion is about using about a 8" woofer and 3" full range driver, which could give you the 'classic 70s' look you're after.

Geoff
 
#22
What about this, a classic looking 3 way speaker?

https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/floorstanding-speakers/pit-vipers

Parts available in Oz: Dayton SD315 and DC130B-4, Peerless/Vifa D27TG35 (photo courtesy of Paul Carmody's website). Big cabinet and more expensive than the Classix 2.5, of course; also more complex crossover.

As with Curt Campbell and Michael Chua, whose designs I've completed or test built, I wouldn't hesitate to build one of Paul's designs.

I haven't heard them, but "Wolf's" 8" two way 'Zingers' (Dayton/Peerless) have been well reviewed: of course there are many other very good projects out there, so do your research and work out what may suit.

Geoff
 

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#24
@xl_sound A very hard challenge 10" + 1"
Your crossover is too complicated.
Keep things simple like this :
1. Woofer
Here I think you need an inductor (1.5-2.5 mH) to compensate bass step and a parallel rlc (0.47mH 10uF) to tame the 2.2kHz peak
2. Tweeter, I would choose an other tweeter
Simple RC (4.7 ohms 6.8uF)
It is a starting point 😉 Simple and you can improve later

Note build a closed box, 40L, as Dayton recommends. If you don't have measurement tools you cannot tune the port if you go to bass reflex.
 
#25
I would not build it, waste of time and waste of money, it not going to sound nice in any way even using better tweeter, those bass is simply an woofer and nothing more of that. If you realy need to play on your own design you will need to invest to an measurement system, I can recomend this one https://www.audiomatica.com/wp/?page_id=3557 , version 3.0, having that and nothing more of that and you are ready to play with any speaker you want to design. I even invested in microphone calibration and got calibration file and doing my own post procesing (sincle clio pocket do not have integrated postprocesing by calibration file, you will need your own). And you will learn very fast, knowing the real phase information and the rest of things. Your starting point was good, you are started nice by using Xsim software, good choice and nice one, but you need to generate real zma and frd files to be able to design your own, and having Clio you are on a good starting point, and real!

For example https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/32808173086.html + https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/twee...50w-8-ohm-89db-1300hz-20khz-o28cm-p-6773.html you can get an nice sounding speaker and very cheap, and also good for an starting point. Later you can add an pasive or even active subwoofer if you need more dynamic..
 
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#27
(1) Dayton DC250 what the OP was looking at-
Parts Express - PE Gallery
different tweeter -E'couter
https://projectgallery.parts-express.com/speaker-projects/ecouter/

post #16, tweeter difference @$12 usd pr
E’couter

ChrisABC said:
Parts Express - PE Gallery
E'couter

ported
295-315 Dayton Audio DC250-8 10″ Classic Woofer
275-070 Dayton Audio DC28F-8 1-1/8″ Silk Dome Tweeter

https://projectgallery.parts-express.com/speaker-projects/ecouter/

---
another -post #11
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...ver-config-for-a-very-cheap-10-3-way-retrofit
Click to expand...
(2) option Dayton DC250 KLH 17 refit / rebox/ retrofit (RIP-Zilch)
post #105, #182, #210 etc (11 pages-end sealed)He says look for another woofer.
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/klh-17.188877/page-6#post-2304672

https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/klh-17-specs-and-dimensions.326914/
 

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#28
At the risk of sounding like a stuck record, it is really important that people are happy with their first DIY efforts. And the easiest way to do that is building an existing, well regarded project.

My first DIY build, from Curt Campbell, sounded great and killed anything I'd heard in a retail store for many, many $$ more.

Until I joined various Fora and did my research, I was all set to build a Dayton RS180/DC28F two way speaker with a pre-made Dayton crossover, which I realised would have sounded sh--house.

Result? I would have wasted time, money and swear words and thought 'what's all the fuss DIY all about?'

Geoff
 
#30
Something to consider about the E'couter-

https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/2-way-with-a-10-woofer.363931/
wolf_teeth said:
I WOULD NOT build that design. The designer said he placed 2 higher power ceramic resistors in parallel with the woofer to have higher power handling.

This is a lot of unsafe practice, as those resistors across a woofer may become a fire hazard. Secondly, they really won't increase power handling, but dissipate more power as heat.

Now- I've been known to suggest a 40-50 ohm resistor across a woofer of the 25-50W variety if the impedance spike causes a bump in the response as this will reduce it. However, the designer for E'couter used 2x 40 ohm resistors paralleled. This means it is a 20 ohm load across the woofer. This, IMO, is too low and will shunt a lot of current.

The comments in the writeup basically equate the designer herein to not really understanding xovers.

Later,
Wolf
Click to expand...

=================
10" woofer check Devore Orangutan, Seas A26 Kit
To OP keep looking.
 
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#33
Geoff - roughly how much to build Classix IIs, cabinets and all? Unless you don't have the tools to build the cabinets, I bet the Classic IIs would destroy those Dayton T652s. (And I'm not disparaging Dayton, I appreciate the value of their budget speakers.)
 
#34
Difficult to estimate the damage for the Classix II exactly, but the Vifa BC25TG and DC160 are now A$30 and A$80 each respectively from LSK or Wagner. So, driver cost about $220. I built ours a few years ago when the Vifas were $25 and the DC160s, $55.

XO cost will depend on the quality of the caps and inductors but you don't have to spend $bulk: I used Jantzen Cross Caps and a P-core inductor on the woofer. Dayton Audio DMPC caps maybe a little cheaper.

IIRC, total parts cost for the crossovers was about A$120 for the pair but shouldn't be much more than that now. Ports would be about $16 pair, binding posts about $25 for two pairs. (I have spare XO parts and tweeters if the OP wanted to save some $). XO boards made from scrap masonite, free.

MDF CNC cut with round-overs on the baffle but not routed for the drivers, probably around $100. Ply would be much more costly but look better of course. Photos of Jimi Hendrix for decoupage, free from old magazines! I'm assuming the OP already has drill, clamps, soldering gear and other tools.

Estimate total cost, if my maths is correct: about A$480. Sounded better than a friends' ***e system!

The Classix 2.5s TMM (cost an extra $200 for extra woofers and extra inductor over the IIs) would cost more than the Dayton T652s with the mods, but would sound much better: higher quality drivers and well designed crossover, plus many good reviews and builds. I was going to build a pair but just couldn't justify it.

Geoff
 
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#35
Getting away from 10" woofer, there's lots of options:
Easy-these woofers are surface mount.
Peerless 830656 MTM 5 crossover parts
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...-overall-best-sounding-speaker-design-details

Measurements
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...n-of-the-Iron-Driver-Loudspeakers=#post780562

MTM box options, tower Audio Solutions Euphony 90 -Peerless 830656 & ScanSpeak D2604
(Google Translate)
https://translate.google.com/

https://www.hi-fi.ru/magazine/stere...sticheskie-sistemy-audiosolutions-euphony-90/
https://diyaudio.pl/forum/praktyczn...-audio/22745-audio-solutions-euphony-90-clone

or page 48

https://tuxdoc.com/download/klangton-2011-05pdf_pdf
http://diy-hifi.eu/dexter.html
=====
MLTL 830656 4 crossover parts
https://www.audiotinker.com/support-files/mltl_peerless_830656.pdf

======
Youtube
Audio Judgement 830657 6 crossover parts
https://audiojudgement.com/diy-speaker-project-using-just-2-tools/
 
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#36
That Audio Judgement build looks nice and simple, but it seems to cross the woofer a little high, at least in my Xsim model; however, the issue can be easily fixed with a small cap and resistor on the woofer inductor. Parts cost is very reasonable and the drivers are available in Oz. The Peerless costs around $20 less than the Dayton DC160 and can be flush mounted, value!

I'm pretty sure you could substitute the Peerless SDS 160 for the 830657 - it costs a little less but has more Xmax and to my ears sounds the same.

Geoff
 
#37
The Dayton T652 for a first build would be very acceptable, easiest construction- due to the finished box.

The 830656 MTM Iron Driver Winner, it's got the so called BBC Dip and won a PE speaker competition they should be very good. This could be built as a small mtm or larger tower.

The Audio Judgement for the money looks very good.

To OP what is your budget? Type of speaker(bookshelf, tower, etc)
The Dayton DC250 in the E'couter has a problem noted by Wolf-woofer resistors)
 
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#40
Troels' designs are well regarded, but customers need to order the whole kit including drivers and crossover parts, so the shipping and $A conversions price would be pretty high; his designs aren't in the public domain, for reasons outlined on the website.

The woofers are A$99 each and the tweeters, $149 each from LSK/Wagner.

The Nomex 164 versions 1 and 2 use the same drivers, at least I think so; not sure whether their details might available without buying the kit. I know a bloke who built the first version and considered them excellent.

Geoff
 
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