Hey team,
First time builder and first time poster! I have come up with a basic set of designs that I think might work to create a two way passive speaker system and was wanting to get some feedback. I fear I may have missed some glaring and obvious issues but would really appreciate the communities help in making this project work! I have attached a rough draft of the speaker design plans, however I also had a few questions.
1. Amplifier choice? what power and ohm should I be looking at based on my design?
2. Resistors are rated for 10 W, does this effect the amplifier choice?
3. Does the complex crossover design add a significant change in resistance due to the larger number of components? should I try to calculate and determine how this will effect the output?
4. One driver is rated for 8ohm and the other 4ohm, with the crossover design will this be alright?
5. Winding inductors? is this the best cost effective solution?
6. My Port length is longer than my box length, can I fold it in on itself and create a port with the same width and volume as the theoretical port length and cross section would have?
Many thanks,
First time builder and first time poster! I have come up with a basic set of designs that I think might work to create a two way passive speaker system and was wanting to get some feedback. I fear I may have missed some glaring and obvious issues but would really appreciate the communities help in making this project work! I have attached a rough draft of the speaker design plans, however I also had a few questions.
1. Amplifier choice? what power and ohm should I be looking at based on my design?
2. Resistors are rated for 10 W, does this effect the amplifier choice?
3. Does the complex crossover design add a significant change in resistance due to the larger number of components? should I try to calculate and determine how this will effect the output?
4. One driver is rated for 8ohm and the other 4ohm, with the crossover design will this be alright?
5. Winding inductors? is this the best cost effective solution?
6. My Port length is longer than my box length, can I fold it in on itself and create a port with the same width and volume as the theoretical port length and cross section would have?
Many thanks,
Greets!
Looks like you're XOing at/below the tweeter's Fs, so a non-starter........
No, folding a vent increases its length
Looks like you're XOing at/below the tweeter's Fs, so a non-starter........
No, folding a vent increases its length
Thanks GM!
How does this look for a redesigned crossover, with the crossover point at about 1.8K Hz?
Ok thanks, I think I'm a little confused by winisd but will keep looking into it. But Looking at the image you attached, Laminar flow is the goal and its probably simpler to not include a fold on the port?
How does this look for a redesigned crossover, with the crossover point at about 1.8K Hz?
Ok thanks, I think I'm a little confused by winisd but will keep looking into it. But Looking at the image you attached, Laminar flow is the goal and its probably simpler to not include a fold on the port?
Attachments
Hi diy,
First time building and designing a crossover and I was wondering if I could get some feedback on this crossover design I have come up with for these two drivers:
https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/26/dc250-8-10-classic-woofer-8-ohm
https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/1280/nd25fw-4-1-soft-dome-neodymium-tweeter-with-waveguide-4-ohm
I have tried moving up the XO frequency to give the tweeter a bit less but I am wondering if I should roll off the woofer a bit more? input would be appreciated, thanks!
Also wondering what amp I should be looking at? I'm not sure if a 50-100W range is the best? and at 8 Ohms?
Also an earlier draft of the build plans is below if it helps!
First time building and designing a crossover and I was wondering if I could get some feedback on this crossover design I have come up with for these two drivers:
https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/26/dc250-8-10-classic-woofer-8-ohm
https://www.daytonaudio.com/product/1280/nd25fw-4-1-soft-dome-neodymium-tweeter-with-waveguide-4-ohm
I have tried moving up the XO frequency to give the tweeter a bit less but I am wondering if I should roll off the woofer a bit more? input would be appreciated, thanks!
Also wondering what amp I should be looking at? I'm not sure if a 50-100W range is the best? and at 8 Ohms?
Also an earlier draft of the build plans is below if it helps!
Attachments
Moved to Multi-WayCan you attach .dxo file? Also frd and zma fles, its by your measurement or you have found them on net?
Just used the FRD from the website! I don't have any measuring equipment yet but was planning to take some measurements once they're built
Sorry to say but this is not optimistic or at least frd&zma is fake, those soo huge peak at 2.2k not looks nice, hard for design! Without measurement system even harder, its not optimistic! Those bass is simply not suitable for two way, even tweeter looks not nice, waste of time!
Attachments
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Welcome!
My few thoughts:
Woofer has big peak/resonance around 2,2 kHz. For this reason and to avoid beaming you should keep the xo point no higher than 1,5 - 1,6 kHz.
Resistor in series with woofer is something to avoid.
To make suitable rolloff, I would use inductor in series with woofer, followed by LCR notch in parallel (necessary to tame the 2,2 kHz peak).
The tweeter is not suitable match to woofer. Waveguide is a good idea, but this one is to small, effective only down to 2 kHz. Also recommended operating range is 2,5 kHz and higher. You need something capable of much lower xo point.
If you wish to stick with Dayton, my suggestion is to use DC28F-8 instead. Far better match and really nice tweeter for the money.
My few thoughts:
Woofer has big peak/resonance around 2,2 kHz. For this reason and to avoid beaming you should keep the xo point no higher than 1,5 - 1,6 kHz.
Resistor in series with woofer is something to avoid.
To make suitable rolloff, I would use inductor in series with woofer, followed by LCR notch in parallel (necessary to tame the 2,2 kHz peak).
The tweeter is not suitable match to woofer. Waveguide is a good idea, but this one is to small, effective only down to 2 kHz. Also recommended operating range is 2,5 kHz and higher. You need something capable of much lower xo point.
If you wish to stick with Dayton, my suggestion is to use DC28F-8 instead. Far better match and really nice tweeter for the money.
Making a two-way with a 10" woofer is a real challenge. And so is an 8". Rather than changing the tweeter, consider the DC160-8.
I wanted also to suggest dc28f-8, but do not use frd and zma files from the net because when you put speakers into enclosure booth enclosure and bafle will make huge changes and those frd and zma is no more valid even close to speakers from box, also simulated crosower will not match. I can sugest you search on the net there should be some ready made diy projects with those drivers, simple folow them, its realy hard to design an spaker without measurement system, you will never be satisfied.
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There are actually two possibilities:
To deal extensively with the basics, which can take a very long time, or....
....as already suggested, to rebuild a ready developed loudspeaker.
The basics are lacking in many areas, which obviously starts with the choice of driver. I also don't think it's possible to cover all these basics in a single thread. 🤔
Best regards
Michael
To deal extensively with the basics, which can take a very long time, or....
....as already suggested, to rebuild a ready developed loudspeaker.
The basics are lacking in many areas, which obviously starts with the choice of driver. I also don't think it's possible to cover all these basics in a single thread. 🤔
Best regards
Michael
Here you can see a lot of extensively developed speakers http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Diy_Loudspeaker_Projects.htm which you can diy yourself
For yourself in a room, 35-60 w/ch is fine. If you intend to throw loud parties, be aware that any clipping can blow tweeters. The square topped waves impose a lot of high frequencies on sine waves. 120-200 w/ch is actually safer for parties, if you do not violate xmax on the woofer (displacement).
Looked at the carmody classixII, appeared to be what you are looking for. Cheap drivers, compact, refined 10 element crossover to cover the driver defects. On sale this week $115 US. https://www.parts-express.com/Class...t-with-Knock-Down-Cabinet-300-7112?quantity=1
I prefer 15"+1.4" CD two ways, for the extreme low distortion the drivers impose. The boxes are huge, however to even reach 54 hz F3. I copy Peavey SP2-XT or SP2(2004) which I latter I actually picked up for $200 each +$100 to go get them 180 miles RT away. 2nd HarmonicDistortion 25 db down 60hz-12khz at 5 watts. 4 element crossovers, no nasty peaks to tame. Also have a tungsten bulb in there to turn down tweeters automatically if the amp clips or a performer drops a microphone. I'm building 2 copies, Eminence deltapro15 woofer plus N314T-8 CD's. Cross at 1200 hz no nasty peaks or cone breakup to tame. For plans of a 2 way look at Pispeakers.com 4pi. He has nice wide angle performance charts, which Mr Carmody does not supply on his base page.
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Parts Express - PE Gallery
E'couter
ported
295-315 Dayton Audio DC250-8 10″ Classic Woofer
275-070 Dayton Audio DC28F-8 1-1/8″ Silk Dome Tweeter
https://projectgallery.parts-express.com/speaker-projects/ecouter/
---
another -post #11
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...ver-config-for-a-very-cheap-10-3-way-retrofit
E'couter
ported
295-315 Dayton Audio DC250-8 10″ Classic Woofer
275-070 Dayton Audio DC28F-8 1-1/8″ Silk Dome Tweeter
https://projectgallery.parts-express.com/speaker-projects/ecouter/
---
another -post #11
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/...ver-config-for-a-very-cheap-10-3-way-retrofit
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I second the above suggestion for the Classix II - we love them; if you're in search of more bass and dB output, the Classix 2.5 TMM would be a good choice for a first project. Cabinet size for either should have good Spouse Approval Factor (SAF).
We too are in Oz and the VifaBC25TG and DC160 can both be sourced locally from Wagner or Loudspeaker Kit; Speakerbug in Brisbane have the XO parts. The drivers cost around A$30 and A$80 each respectively. XO cost will depend on the quality of the caps and inductors but you don't have to spend silly money: I used P-cores for the woofer, small air cores and 'Cross Caps' for the tweeter. IIC, total parts cost for the crossovers was about $120.
MDF CNC cut with round-overs but not routed for the drivers, around $100; they might also route the drivers if you ask nicely and lend them the drivers.
Shipping from the US is just silly money compared to a few years ago.
Drivers from Dayton, SB Acoustics, Peerless/Tymphany, Vifa ScanSpeak, and Visaton are available here, so if you're looking at other projects, I'd strongly suggest designs which use those brands.
An important thing with a first build is that it's your hard earned $$ and work going in, so it's vital that you're happy with the sound. As discussed above, I really don't think that combination will work.
As for amp power, I'd suggest 80-100 RMS/channel to give flexibility for future projects, larger rooms etc. A small amp can blow tweeters: I destroyed two SEAS tweeters with a 10w/ch Rotel amplifier!
Good luck and don't hesitate to ask questions - people really want to help and make sure you have a good introduction to DIY.
Geoff
We too are in Oz and the VifaBC25TG and DC160 can both be sourced locally from Wagner or Loudspeaker Kit; Speakerbug in Brisbane have the XO parts. The drivers cost around A$30 and A$80 each respectively. XO cost will depend on the quality of the caps and inductors but you don't have to spend silly money: I used P-cores for the woofer, small air cores and 'Cross Caps' for the tweeter. IIC, total parts cost for the crossovers was about $120.
MDF CNC cut with round-overs but not routed for the drivers, around $100; they might also route the drivers if you ask nicely and lend them the drivers.
Shipping from the US is just silly money compared to a few years ago.
Drivers from Dayton, SB Acoustics, Peerless/Tymphany, Vifa ScanSpeak, and Visaton are available here, so if you're looking at other projects, I'd strongly suggest designs which use those brands.
An important thing with a first build is that it's your hard earned $$ and work going in, so it's vital that you're happy with the sound. As discussed above, I really don't think that combination will work.
As for amp power, I'd suggest 80-100 RMS/channel to give flexibility for future projects, larger rooms etc. A small amp can blow tweeters: I destroyed two SEAS tweeters with a 10w/ch Rotel amplifier!
Good luck and don't hesitate to ask questions - people really want to help and make sure you have a good introduction to DIY.
Geoff