I agree that the law of diminishing returns applies, but in this case we are worried about one thing mostly- Cheaper drivers tend to have an irregular frequency response right near the Basszilla crossover. My crossover is still not quite right, and I'm beginning to wonder if the driver has something to do with it.
So it is not the overall sound which has me worried (it is very very good) just the crossover area.
Any comments about whether moving the mid and tweet away from the bass box a couple of feet will matter? (of course I won't put the mid/tweet panet right in front of the bass !!)
So it is not the overall sound which has me worried (it is very very good) just the crossover area.
Any comments about whether moving the mid and tweet away from the bass box a couple of feet will matter? (of course I won't put the mid/tweet panet right in front of the bass !!)
Alternative to Audax woofer??
Variac,
Would you mind having a look at this P Audio driver:
http://www.cannonsound.com.au/paudSN15B.html
It is the P Audio Super Neo 15", model SN15B (it has a link with all the specs also, what do you think of the response graph/specs??)
The price for these are only US$150ea, whereas I have been quoted US$285ea for the Selenium WPU1505 that you have, and the guy I spoke to suggested that the P Audio is better than the Selenium....
I have not given up on the Audax yet either, still waiting on advice back re availability and price, but their advertised price is US$340ea plus I fear that shipping for 2 of these is gonna be mighty costly....plus there are some import taxes also to pay I think.
I wont hold you responsible of course 😉 but how confident would you feel about this P Audio SN15B (or are there any better P Audio models??) based on its response graph and specs, to perform well in a high quality design like the Basszilla. Also, bearing in mind that I am not a tech type, and dont really understand most of this DIY and measurements stuff, if I get Dick's plans and the P Audio instead of the Audax, does this make life more difficult for myself (regarding filters, cabinet design/sizes in Dick's plans, etc??)
Should have my plans soon, plus hopefully some info on the Audax, but would really appreciate your further help on this one!
Cheers,
Mark (Aussieland)
Variac,
Would you mind having a look at this P Audio driver:
http://www.cannonsound.com.au/paudSN15B.html
It is the P Audio Super Neo 15", model SN15B (it has a link with all the specs also, what do you think of the response graph/specs??)
The price for these are only US$150ea, whereas I have been quoted US$285ea for the Selenium WPU1505 that you have, and the guy I spoke to suggested that the P Audio is better than the Selenium....
I have not given up on the Audax yet either, still waiting on advice back re availability and price, but their advertised price is US$340ea plus I fear that shipping for 2 of these is gonna be mighty costly....plus there are some import taxes also to pay I think.
I wont hold you responsible of course 😉 but how confident would you feel about this P Audio SN15B (or are there any better P Audio models??) based on its response graph and specs, to perform well in a high quality design like the Basszilla. Also, bearing in mind that I am not a tech type, and dont really understand most of this DIY and measurements stuff, if I get Dick's plans and the P Audio instead of the Audax, does this make life more difficult for myself (regarding filters, cabinet design/sizes in Dick's plans, etc??)
Should have my plans soon, plus hopefully some info on the Audax, but would really appreciate your further help on this one!
Cheers,
Mark (Aussieland)
First- remember that i don't know what the hell I'm talking about
Second check out the "dipole driver help needed thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18494
Lots of good discussion there.
Third- I am so pleased with myself that I predicted that the low cost neodymium drivers are going to turn the pro audio business upside down. It appears that there are at least a hundred pro audio driver companies. I think it is because the drivers are too heavy to ship efficiently. There is going to be a big change now because the neo drivers are light enough to ship.
Fourth- As I have mentioned, there is no question that P Audio
is a quality manufacturer. The Selenium for $300 is no bargain
It's overwhelming appeal to me was it's price of $100.
The response curve of the PAudioSN-15B is quite good to my limited knowlege.
HOWEVER: the PAudio SN-15MB curve is superb!! Look at how flat it is to over 500hz!!!! Your crossover region will be very consistant and easy to get right. The Fs is a bit high, but please get Win ISD pro (a free download I mentioned earlier: www.linearteam.org) and model the driver.
First enter the parameters from PAudio for the driver.
For box size, about 110 liters would be a good number to start with. Vary the port length to adjust the response curve.
Also box size but keep in mind how huge it is getting!
It's easy, and you will feel very clever. If you can get flat response down to around 40 hz you are set! It's efficiency is excellent also. I would certainly feel that it is worth a try at half the price of the Audax.
Of course you are taking a risk that it will be more difficult to get right, but I would say it is a small risk! I am going to check the price in the U.S.
NOTE!!!!! I went to the US site ande the curves are exactly reversed!!!! The B model is the good curve and the MB is not as good. I think this is an error, but It would be nice to confirm which is right!!!
Second check out the "dipole driver help needed thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=18494
Lots of good discussion there.
Third- I am so pleased with myself that I predicted that the low cost neodymium drivers are going to turn the pro audio business upside down. It appears that there are at least a hundred pro audio driver companies. I think it is because the drivers are too heavy to ship efficiently. There is going to be a big change now because the neo drivers are light enough to ship.
Fourth- As I have mentioned, there is no question that P Audio
is a quality manufacturer. The Selenium for $300 is no bargain
It's overwhelming appeal to me was it's price of $100.
The response curve of the PAudioSN-15B is quite good to my limited knowlege.
HOWEVER: the PAudio SN-15MB curve is superb!! Look at how flat it is to over 500hz!!!! Your crossover region will be very consistant and easy to get right. The Fs is a bit high, but please get Win ISD pro (a free download I mentioned earlier: www.linearteam.org) and model the driver.
First enter the parameters from PAudio for the driver.
For box size, about 110 liters would be a good number to start with. Vary the port length to adjust the response curve.
Also box size but keep in mind how huge it is getting!
It's easy, and you will feel very clever. If you can get flat response down to around 40 hz you are set! It's efficiency is excellent also. I would certainly feel that it is worth a try at half the price of the Audax.
Of course you are taking a risk that it will be more difficult to get right, but I would say it is a small risk! I am going to check the price in the U.S.
NOTE!!!!! I went to the US site ande the curves are exactly reversed!!!! The B model is the good curve and the MB is not as good. I think this is an error, but It would be nice to confirm which is right!!!
The salesguy I spoke to said the 'MB' was the midbass model, and the 'B' model was the bass model, used in subwoofers....
Does this make any difference to your previous comments?? Or doesnt it really matter...are either/both suitable for the Basszilla concept/design?
Thanks again,
Mark
Does this make any difference to your previous comments?? Or doesnt it really matter...are either/both suitable for the Basszilla concept/design?
Thanks again,
Mark
Yeah, that was pretty clear to me. Even the B really doesn't go as low as a real subwoofer.
I think most people choosing the pro driver approach are willing to trade bass quality for lowest bass extension. It is obvious that the MB doesn't go quite as low as the B (MB stands for Mid Bass, B for Bass) but I would opt for MB's better quality. But you should do the work and model it and see what it's frequency response will be in a box.
I think most people choosing the pro driver approach are willing to trade bass quality for lowest bass extension. It is obvious that the MB doesn't go quite as low as the B (MB stands for Mid Bass, B for Bass) but I would opt for MB's better quality. But you should do the work and model it and see what it's frequency response will be in a box.
Well, neither is a low bass star, In fact the seem to model about the same. The best I can do is a 120 liter box with a 50 cm long 10cm diameter port. they don't have flat response then, but the roll off follows the the room gain chart attached down to about 42 hz, so should come out flat in a room. I don't know how they would work with the basszilla slot port.
Attachments
Mark,
Still waiting on my Basszilla plans.
One thing I am wondering about though, how far out from my (solid brick) rear wall should the speakers be to sound good?
If the cabinets are as big as I think they are, I am worried that I might not have a big enough room (17 feet long and 11.5 wide) to move them very far from the back wall (particulrly as there is a doorway not far from where my current speakers are!).
I noticed you are considering bringing the open baffle out a bit, and leaving the bass bin closer to the wall....
I also noticed a guy in Europe who built a Basszilla version using Fostex 208 and a 15" JBL woofer, and he said it must be at least 5 feet from the rear wall to sound best.
Whaddya think??
Thanks, Mark
Still waiting on my Basszilla plans.
One thing I am wondering about though, how far out from my (solid brick) rear wall should the speakers be to sound good?
If the cabinets are as big as I think they are, I am worried that I might not have a big enough room (17 feet long and 11.5 wide) to move them very far from the back wall (particulrly as there is a doorway not far from where my current speakers are!).
I noticed you are considering bringing the open baffle out a bit, and leaving the bass bin closer to the wall....
I also noticed a guy in Europe who built a Basszilla version using Fostex 208 and a 15" JBL woofer, and he said it must be at least 5 feet from the rear wall to sound best.
Whaddya think??
Thanks, Mark
The distance from the wall was a shocker to me too. I had remembered that number as three feet, and was re-reading the information from Olsher, and saw the 5' number. BUT, that is the distance of the open baffle from the wall-pretty much the FRONT of speaker to wall. If your boxes were 2' deep, their backs would only have to be 3 feet from the wall.
Five feet isn't necessary, but the optimal. However, the brick wall is probably the worst surface so five feet is recommended.
The room size seems fine but does the door allow 5 feet from baffle to wall?
Latest News: Dick Olsher has committed to making a model with the FE204E Sigma and a tweeter. I will make him a baffle similar to mine for him to experiment with.
Five feet isn't necessary, but the optimal. However, the brick wall is probably the worst surface so five feet is recommended.
The room size seems fine but does the door allow 5 feet from baffle to wall?
Latest News: Dick Olsher has committed to making a model with the FE204E Sigma and a tweeter. I will make him a baffle similar to mine for him to experiment with.
Mark,
Mmmm, will have to get the measuring tape out when I get home to see if I have a total of 5' available. Plus, with the boxes being big and no doubt heavy, it is not a simple matter of moving them in and out each time I want to listen!
Hey, do you know what woofer Dick would be thinking of using with his new design? The Audax is very scarce, and I dont think it is even made any more. Would be great if Dick could find a good lightweight neo magnet as an alternative! At least would be better for my shipping bill!
I see Bert Doppenberg (BD Design in Holland, Oris, AER, etc) has come up with a new reference 15" bass driver (BD15) that is a lightweight neo magnet, and supposedly sounds real good. In fact, there is one guy who replaced his Audax PR380 with the BD15.....I was going to snap up his Audax but the shipping from Norway to me was going to cost more than the pair of woofers!
As I said, I still havent received my plans...maybe I should hold off a while and see what Dick comes up with. I just searched Madisound for the Fostex 204 and couldnt find it? Is it an 8" driver?
Decisions, decisions!!??
Cheers,
Mark
Mmmm, will have to get the measuring tape out when I get home to see if I have a total of 5' available. Plus, with the boxes being big and no doubt heavy, it is not a simple matter of moving them in and out each time I want to listen!
Hey, do you know what woofer Dick would be thinking of using with his new design? The Audax is very scarce, and I dont think it is even made any more. Would be great if Dick could find a good lightweight neo magnet as an alternative! At least would be better for my shipping bill!
I see Bert Doppenberg (BD Design in Holland, Oris, AER, etc) has come up with a new reference 15" bass driver (BD15) that is a lightweight neo magnet, and supposedly sounds real good. In fact, there is one guy who replaced his Audax PR380 with the BD15.....I was going to snap up his Audax but the shipping from Norway to me was going to cost more than the pair of woofers!
As I said, I still havent received my plans...maybe I should hold off a while and see what Dick comes up with. I just searched Madisound for the Fostex 204 and couldnt find it? Is it an 8" driver?
Decisions, decisions!!??
Cheers,
Mark
Easy things first- I meant to write that Dick was going to use the 208E Sigma (the one I have) not 204, whatever that is-probably nothing. Doh!!!!
So that's the only sure thing, though he hasn't heard it , so if he hates it then maybe not
He is ordering a pair though!
The tweeter will probably be the Fostex FT 17
He is going to first study the 208E Sigma in conjunction with the tweeter. Since I will be making the baffle that he will use for the studies, I can state that the tweeter will be below the 208
on a vertical panel very similar to what I made for myself. Probably the "official" version won't have the facets on the baffle, just a flat panel that tilts back some amount. I suppose the final design won't necessarily have adjustable tilt, because he will determine what he feels to be the optimal angle. Quite possibly he will add a notch filter and not tilt the mid as much as I do. The tilt adjustability is fun for us DIY people though, who like to constantly fiddle with what is optimal for our rooms.
The woofer is considered phase 2.
At first the official 15" will be what he has spec'ed all along.
There are hundreds of 15" drivers out there, and he says most aren't very good. Time and money require that he not test every driver out there. He is very interested in recomendations so the 15" you mentioned will be of great interest I would think. I was also hoping he would find one at a decent price also. What does Bert's cost?
I have my speakers on wheels for the reasons you mention. I decided that being able to move them trumps the unhipness of wheels.
So that's the only sure thing, though he hasn't heard it , so if he hates it then maybe not
He is ordering a pair though!The tweeter will probably be the Fostex FT 17
He is going to first study the 208E Sigma in conjunction with the tweeter. Since I will be making the baffle that he will use for the studies, I can state that the tweeter will be below the 208
on a vertical panel very similar to what I made for myself. Probably the "official" version won't have the facets on the baffle, just a flat panel that tilts back some amount. I suppose the final design won't necessarily have adjustable tilt, because he will determine what he feels to be the optimal angle. Quite possibly he will add a notch filter and not tilt the mid as much as I do. The tilt adjustability is fun for us DIY people though, who like to constantly fiddle with what is optimal for our rooms.
The woofer is considered phase 2.
At first the official 15" will be what he has spec'ed all along.
There are hundreds of 15" drivers out there, and he says most aren't very good. Time and money require that he not test every driver out there. He is very interested in recomendations so the 15" you mentioned will be of great interest I would think. I was also hoping he would find one at a decent price also. What does Bert's cost?
I have my speakers on wheels for the reasons you mention. I decided that being able to move them trumps the unhipness of wheels.
Bert's woofers cost US$315 each, so about the same as Audax, yet much lighter.
I emailed Bert about the possibility of using these and this is his reply:
"The BD15's work optimal in a reflex enclosure of 160 liters with a port tuned to 32Hz. You can view the drawings for my design at:
http://www.bd-design.com/en-gb/pg_144.html
Other enclosures could be used but it's hard to predict how the total balance of that system will be. The filter for the bass driver will be very different because the impedance of both drivers are rather different (8 ohm versus 16 ohm)."
For a novice like me, I need to stick to Dick's proven design and specs!! What is the volume of Dick's design in liters, just out of curiousity?
Cheers,
Mark
I emailed Bert about the possibility of using these and this is his reply:
"The BD15's work optimal in a reflex enclosure of 160 liters with a port tuned to 32Hz. You can view the drawings for my design at:
http://www.bd-design.com/en-gb/pg_144.html
Other enclosures could be used but it's hard to predict how the total balance of that system will be. The filter for the bass driver will be very different because the impedance of both drivers are rather different (8 ohm versus 16 ohm)."
For a novice like me, I need to stick to Dick's proven design and specs!! What is the volume of Dick's design in liters, just out of curiousity?
Cheers,
Mark
The driver looks like it could be a good choice except for the 16 ohm business. could be a problem since we only need one per channel. I will mention it to Dick. I don't remember the Basszilla size, but I dion't think that the volume is that critical.
Anyone know of any other good 15" drivers?
Anyone know of any other good 15" drivers?
Variac,
Now I am getting to the nitty-gritty!
What type of wood did you use on your speakers? I have had a strong recommendation to avoid MDF, and go for 1" plywood (marine) by a guy who has been DIY'ing speakers for many years.
Ply is almost 5 times the price of MDF in 1", which is a bit scary for an 'unknown' project (to me at least!) But of course I have a fair degree of faith in Dick's design, plus you are obviously happy with the end result too. So, the extra expense is not that important if I end up having a top notch speaker that I will enjoy for many years.
So, what wood did you use.....any thoughts on the MDF vs Ply issue? I see that Dick recommends ply too, with MDF as an 'acceptable option'. I guess it comes down to budget in the end, but if it is reasonable to expect that ply will give a better sound, then I might go for this then...
Cheers,
Mark
Now I am getting to the nitty-gritty!
What type of wood did you use on your speakers? I have had a strong recommendation to avoid MDF, and go for 1" plywood (marine) by a guy who has been DIY'ing speakers for many years.
Ply is almost 5 times the price of MDF in 1", which is a bit scary for an 'unknown' project (to me at least!) But of course I have a fair degree of faith in Dick's design, plus you are obviously happy with the end result too. So, the extra expense is not that important if I end up having a top notch speaker that I will enjoy for many years.
So, what wood did you use.....any thoughts on the MDF vs Ply issue? I see that Dick recommends ply too, with MDF as an 'acceptable option'. I guess it comes down to budget in the end, but if it is reasonable to expect that ply will give a better sound, then I might go for this then...
Cheers,
Mark
First, I assume you've been following my new hit thread:
Great 15" efficient drivers- Who has 'Em
On this channel:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=229680#post229680
Lots of interesting ideas opinions and facts. but little resolution.
We constantly run into the problem that it's hard to rate a driver without hearing it! Especially when you are discussing a copany like Eminence that seems to have hundreds of models.
I used a plywood called agathis. It seems to have about 11 plies.
The only place I 've heard of Agathis is that it is used for the bodies of cheap electric guitars and basses. It must be better than some alternative, because they mention it. I assume it's some asian wood, so maybe you have it down there.
So what's cool about it is that it has all those plies, and the outer veneer is pretty good on one side. Unfortunately I didn't notice that one side was a lot better than the other until I had glued up my boxes. If you are careful, you could make a decent looking box with it and not have to veneer. Unfortunately again, one of my boxes was a little distorted and I had to sand down a panel to make it flush with the top. The good veneer was very thin and I sanded through it. If you used a table saw instead of a hand circular saw with a straight edge clamped on like I did, you could probably get the box straight. I wouldn't have minded the plies showing if everything else was OK. Another possible issue is that the wood is very soft and the sheet isn't hard like birch ply.
It has a softer resonant sound too, so I think any contribution to the sound would be on the mellow, damped side. Because it was a bit soft and maybe flexible, I made all the walls double thickness. Let me tell you, the double thickness is PLENTY rigid!!!! I'm convinced it is a good way to go. The only problem is that the thick walls really burn up internal volume so the final speaker ends up bigger. As I mentioned, that's why my cabinets are 16" deep instead of 12"
The best thing about it is that a 3/4" 4x8 sheet costs less than $35 here.
Marine ply isn't required, we don't need waterproof glues in it. Marine does have no voids which is a very good thing. So, I think currently most people prefer the ply over MDF. but I wouldn't stress over using MDF, if that's what you can afford. Besides, you may want to make a second one anyway. Birch ply or what they call appleply here would be great, but it costs about $80 a sheet here. Maybe that is still cheaper than marine, and I think preferableI prefer lots of plies to fewer.
On to Bert's driver. I will try to model it soon with winISD. I wouldn't mind someone modeling it too. Why don't you give it a try?
Great 15" efficient drivers- Who has 'Em
On this channel:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=229680#post229680
Lots of interesting ideas opinions and facts. but little resolution.
We constantly run into the problem that it's hard to rate a driver without hearing it! Especially when you are discussing a copany like Eminence that seems to have hundreds of models.
I used a plywood called agathis. It seems to have about 11 plies.
The only place I 've heard of Agathis is that it is used for the bodies of cheap electric guitars and basses. It must be better than some alternative, because they mention it. I assume it's some asian wood, so maybe you have it down there.
So what's cool about it is that it has all those plies, and the outer veneer is pretty good on one side. Unfortunately I didn't notice that one side was a lot better than the other until I had glued up my boxes. If you are careful, you could make a decent looking box with it and not have to veneer. Unfortunately again, one of my boxes was a little distorted and I had to sand down a panel to make it flush with the top. The good veneer was very thin and I sanded through it. If you used a table saw instead of a hand circular saw with a straight edge clamped on like I did, you could probably get the box straight. I wouldn't have minded the plies showing if everything else was OK. Another possible issue is that the wood is very soft and the sheet isn't hard like birch ply.
It has a softer resonant sound too, so I think any contribution to the sound would be on the mellow, damped side. Because it was a bit soft and maybe flexible, I made all the walls double thickness. Let me tell you, the double thickness is PLENTY rigid!!!! I'm convinced it is a good way to go. The only problem is that the thick walls really burn up internal volume so the final speaker ends up bigger. As I mentioned, that's why my cabinets are 16" deep instead of 12"
The best thing about it is that a 3/4" 4x8 sheet costs less than $35 here.
Marine ply isn't required, we don't need waterproof glues in it. Marine does have no voids which is a very good thing. So, I think currently most people prefer the ply over MDF. but I wouldn't stress over using MDF, if that's what you can afford. Besides, you may want to make a second one anyway. Birch ply or what they call appleply here would be great, but it costs about $80 a sheet here. Maybe that is still cheaper than marine, and I think preferableI prefer lots of plies to fewer.
On to Bert's driver. I will try to model it soon with winISD. I wouldn't mind someone modeling it too. Why don't you give it a try?
Well, the WAF (wife acceptance factor) can be a problem. I'm still in a discussion whith my wife whether to build a couple of horn speakers...
Well, generally I'm a reasonable guy. when my wife saw how committed I was to the new speakers, she saw it as a test if she could be accepting. 😉 Then I let her listen to them, and she really likes good quality sound, so she got into them. I think lots of women like the sound of Hi Fi, they just aren't into discussing the equipment for days on end or having it take over the room. In our case, we hadn't had a good system for quite a few years so she really enjoys getting out the old CD's and listening.
Now, to seal the deal, I just bought $160 worth of veneer to make the boxes prettier. Dick Olsher is redesigning the Basszilla crossover using the drivers I used, so I can only assume that it will sound even better when I get it re assembled.
I also am now going to use the JBL 150 15" woofer that I got surplus. I have tracked down the supposed T-S parameters from the Lansing Heritage site. The Audax woofer Dick specifies is getting hard to find. Rumor is that Audax is going to stop selling to DIY people. I think Zylatron still has a couple.
The upper baffle will be bigger- I have made it already. When I get it all veneered and asembled I will upload more pics.
Then when I implement Dick's crossovers I will review the sound.
The sound is great already, so I think it will be incredible.
The cool thing is that once you buy the Basszilla plans you can get the updates free.
Now, to seal the deal, I just bought $160 worth of veneer to make the boxes prettier. Dick Olsher is redesigning the Basszilla crossover using the drivers I used, so I can only assume that it will sound even better when I get it re assembled.
I also am now going to use the JBL 150 15" woofer that I got surplus. I have tracked down the supposed T-S parameters from the Lansing Heritage site. The Audax woofer Dick specifies is getting hard to find. Rumor is that Audax is going to stop selling to DIY people. I think Zylatron still has a couple.
The upper baffle will be bigger- I have made it already. When I get it all veneered and asembled I will upload more pics.
Then when I implement Dick's crossovers I will review the sound.
The sound is great already, so I think it will be incredible.
The cool thing is that once you buy the Basszilla plans you can get the updates free.
Selenium Woofers
My experince has been good. I use the WPU 1507 QCF in my Altec A7 boxes and they are just fine. Cheaper doesn't always mean cheaper.
Might it be that the Selenium products are cheaper because they are made in Brazil, where maybe the wages are lower? And in an effort to get your product noticed, you offer a more reasonable price?
Just askin'
Cal
My experince has been good. I use the WPU 1507 QCF in my Altec A7 boxes and they are just fine. Cheaper doesn't always mean cheaper.
Might it be that the Selenium products are cheaper because they are made in Brazil, where maybe the wages are lower? And in an effort to get your product noticed, you offer a more reasonable price?
Just askin'
Cal
I agree, the Seleniums seem to offer very good value. I am quite pleased with their bass performance. They are certainly beautifully made. My speakers are a little suspect in the crossover region around 200hz, and I don't know if the 1505 woofers are part of the problem or not bcause their response graph shows some irregularities there, so I will try the JBLs to compare. Also, The JBLs might have a bit lower response because they were designed for monitors and home speakers. Most pro drivers don't go too low, but again the 1505s do have pretty low response for a 15" PA driver.
One idea which had occured to me is that pro speakers are heavy, and the further they have to be shipped they pricier they are. Brazil is reasonably close to the US so I thought that this might apply. BUT from talking to people here on DIY Audio it turns out that Seleniums are about the only reasonably priced PA drivers in Australia and India also. It appears that it is as you say; cheaper labor and high volume, and trying to establish a wordwide reputation
Here is a situation that I think applies to a lot of subjects; Art, including music, but also stereo equipment, etc. I can recognize great , but when something is almost great, then I can't really say why. I think that's what makes an expert.
I have really enjoyed seeing your system popping up in photos around here. I'm sure everyone has the dream of having a system like yours for those big parties 😉 As you say, tough to transport though!
Mark
One idea which had occured to me is that pro speakers are heavy, and the further they have to be shipped they pricier they are. Brazil is reasonably close to the US so I thought that this might apply. BUT from talking to people here on DIY Audio it turns out that Seleniums are about the only reasonably priced PA drivers in Australia and India also. It appears that it is as you say; cheaper labor and high volume, and trying to establish a wordwide reputation
Here is a situation that I think applies to a lot of subjects; Art, including music, but also stereo equipment, etc. I can recognize great , but when something is almost great, then I can't really say why. I think that's what makes an expert.
I have really enjoyed seeing your system popping up in photos around here. I'm sure everyone has the dream of having a system like yours for those big parties 😉 As you say, tough to transport though!
Mark
Thanks for your thoughts
Hi Mark,
I'm anything but an expert, in fact I bought the 1507's on advice from a guy who knew I was using them in A7 cabinets. Sight unseen, literature read.
And by the way, the A7 system has the Selenium D205Ti mounted to the 511 horns. This will be my new and improved outdoor system [seriously downsized and just a wee more practical]
You know what I would like to see? The big system could be set up in some old reconditioned horse stable and used for them good ol' Saturday night barn dances. They are great in places with high ceilings, that's what the A4's were invented for. Big, high balcony theatres. So if anyone has deep pockets...
And a barn
let me know
For those who haven't seen them
Cal's big speakers
Hi Mark,
I'm anything but an expert, in fact I bought the 1507's on advice from a guy who knew I was using them in A7 cabinets. Sight unseen, literature read.
And by the way, the A7 system has the Selenium D205Ti mounted to the 511 horns. This will be my new and improved outdoor system [seriously downsized and just a wee more practical]
You know what I would like to see? The big system could be set up in some old reconditioned horse stable and used for them good ol' Saturday night barn dances. They are great in places with high ceilings, that's what the A4's were invented for. Big, high balcony theatres. So if anyone has deep pockets...
And a barn
let me know
For those who haven't seen them
Cal's big speakers
Forgot to mention, the audio guy, who is a man of little words, said the driver was:
"Sturdy"
That doesn't mean precision, but we're talking PA here. It looks really well built to me, and that quartz composite space age cone sounds just fine above 10 or 20 watts. Above a hundred, hard to tell, the poor old cabinet almost becomes a woofer itself. I've not pushed them yet but with a Carver cube on each, I'm bound to misbehave soon
If I ever get the small speakers refinished, I'll post the pics.
Thems is purdy ugly right now.
"Sturdy"
That doesn't mean precision, but we're talking PA here. It looks really well built to me, and that quartz composite space age cone sounds just fine above 10 or 20 watts. Above a hundred, hard to tell, the poor old cabinet almost becomes a woofer itself. I've not pushed them yet but with a Carver cube on each, I'm bound to misbehave soon
If I ever get the small speakers refinished, I'll post the pics.
Thems is purdy ugly right now.
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