This is my clone. Plays good. Black shiga laser mods. Silmic 2 and Panasonic capacitors. Very important cap duelund JDM copper 10nf. 5v dyskrete stabilizer with own salas power supply. Lt1085 8v low noise stabilizer for 8v site. Crc power supply to 8v stabilizer. 3ppm omig quartz(thinking to change for oven cotroled clock with own powwer suply) thinking to use lifepo4 bateries...
Attachments
So today my shiga was compared to: meridian 200 transport cd with very good clock, rotel rcd971 with same clock and lots off upgrades, teac vrds1 with same clock like others and lots of upgrades. So;
Shiga- magical playing, tons of black air, upper hight are not that upper but have body, bas is not so bad but it could be harder, good dynamics
Meridian- not that magical, but not that bad, bas is litle harder, upper hight are more upper thay shiga but dont have that body,that plancton
Rotel- no magic, technical and dynamic playing, very good bas, upper have litle more informstions but with no body
Teac- plays good, something between shiga and rotel.
Shiga- magical playing, tons of black air, upper hight are not that upper but have body, bas is not so bad but it could be harder, good dynamics
Meridian- not that magical, but not that bad, bas is litle harder, upper hight are more upper thay shiga but dont have that body,that plancton
Rotel- no magic, technical and dynamic playing, very good bas, upper have litle more informstions but with no body
Teac- plays good, something between shiga and rotel.
Attachments
And this is my shiga technical informations:
-black shiga laser mods
-c906 duelund jdm copper 10nf
-c916 Panasonic fc 47uf
-c939 elna silmic2 10uf
-c932 orginal
-c930 orginal
-c953 Panasonic fc 47uf
-c952 nothing
-c927 orginal
-c929 elna silmic 2 4.7uf
-c934 elna silmic 2 4,7uf
-c954 elna silmic 2 2.2uf(in this place i have connect 5v discrete stabilizer ,it have 10uf x7r cap on out and 100nf x7r with 100uf on IN pins , this stabilizer is power up by salas , salas caps first 2700uf nippon lxv, second cap vishay bc 220uf ,and last cap on out of salas is elna silmic 2 10uf) same track is powering lc78xx chip, near chip i have connect elna silmic 2 47uf (mayby to much?)
-c936 orginal
-c942 nothing
8v lt1085 stabilizer is conected to old choke holes, and i use this holes to put after 8v stabilizer elna silmic 2 10uf cap, before stabilizer it looks 2700uf nippon lxv, 3R resistor ,470uf panasonic fc and near lt1085 i put 47uf panasonic fc
Smd ceramics cap on botom of pcb are removed:
Orginal rezonator had been change to good omig 3ppm oscilator with two 24pf caps(further it will be clock,same like in merdian,teac and rotel.
Mechanism os mounted on two bolts to wood, for now.
100r is beyshlag 50ppm
300r is dale rnc
Before them i have solder 100nf np0 smd cap
And so, this magic playing is good. But want it more, need better bas, mayby litle more open hight. What now? Mayby 47uf elna silmic near lc78xx chip is to big,becouse from stabilizer we have 10uf smd x7r cap so 57uf on 5v line. Mayby elna is not good for this place? Pleace help me. Or mayby magical c906 cap? Duelund copper? mayby add to this duelund 1nf silver mica?
-black shiga laser mods
-c906 duelund jdm copper 10nf
-c916 Panasonic fc 47uf
-c939 elna silmic2 10uf
-c932 orginal
-c930 orginal
-c953 Panasonic fc 47uf
-c952 nothing
-c927 orginal
-c929 elna silmic 2 4.7uf
-c934 elna silmic 2 4,7uf
-c954 elna silmic 2 2.2uf(in this place i have connect 5v discrete stabilizer ,it have 10uf x7r cap on out and 100nf x7r with 100uf on IN pins , this stabilizer is power up by salas , salas caps first 2700uf nippon lxv, second cap vishay bc 220uf ,and last cap on out of salas is elna silmic 2 10uf) same track is powering lc78xx chip, near chip i have connect elna silmic 2 47uf (mayby to much?)
-c936 orginal
-c942 nothing
8v lt1085 stabilizer is conected to old choke holes, and i use this holes to put after 8v stabilizer elna silmic 2 10uf cap, before stabilizer it looks 2700uf nippon lxv, 3R resistor ,470uf panasonic fc and near lt1085 i put 47uf panasonic fc
Smd ceramics cap on botom of pcb are removed:
- C919
- C928
- C935
- C940
- C960
- C962
Orginal rezonator had been change to good omig 3ppm oscilator with two 24pf caps(further it will be clock,same like in merdian,teac and rotel.
Mechanism os mounted on two bolts to wood, for now.
100r is beyshlag 50ppm
300r is dale rnc
Before them i have solder 100nf np0 smd cap
And so, this magic playing is good. But want it more, need better bas, mayby litle more open hight. What now? Mayby 47uf elna silmic near lc78xx chip is to big,becouse from stabilizer we have 10uf smd x7r cap so 57uf on 5v line. Mayby elna is not good for this place? Pleace help me. Or mayby magical c906 cap? Duelund copper? mayby add to this duelund 1nf silver mica?
Attachments
I found that bass was somewhat affected by transformer (bigger was better), and by mounting and mechanical decoupling. If you are still using that black plastic shroud on top of mechanism that's in the photos, get rid of it as it degrades sound.
Personally, I wasn't a fan of Silmic in a Shiga. This may be just my taste but they are not expensive so perhaps try some high-end Nichicon instead and see if you like them. Black Gate used to be best but at today's prices are probably not worth the expense, even if you manage to find them on ebay.
Personally, I wasn't a fan of Silmic in a Shiga. This may be just my taste but they are not expensive so perhaps try some high-end Nichicon instead and see if you like them. Black Gate used to be best but at today's prices are probably not worth the expense, even if you manage to find them on ebay.
Okey i will change mounting mechanism for lighter one. I have jdm copper on c906 this is very musical cap, mayby with silimics 2 to much musical. Im thinking to change 47uf elna sil2 for oscon 10uf(this is the cap i place near LC chip) ,have change10uf x7r smd cap on out of 5v discrete stabilizer for 1nf np0 smd .Think to change c953 47uf panasonic fc for oscon but 22uf. C939 10uf elna sil2 will stay . So for the LC chip it will be 10uf elna,22uf oscon,10uf oscon and 1np np0. Less capacitywity i have, and thinking that oscons detailed sound will do the job. Or change c939 10uf elna for nichicon fg 10uf, it will be 3 difrent caps for LC chip. And the last one c916 to change panasonic fc 47uf for oscon 33uf.c916 is cap for local orginal 5v stab that powering one leg ffrom chip with radiator . What do you thing obout this changes?
I did not suggest using a lighter mount. On the contrary, rigid materials such as copper and bronze were better than wood or plastic. You might also want to try spikes or other metal feet as well as some metal pads underneath the feet.
I did suggest to remove the black plastic shroud - I marked it on your photo. It's an easy improvement,
With transformers, while yours is perfectly sufficient, you will find that bigger sounds better. People went up to 120VA with good results. However the type of trafo also matters, Hammond 266-series was recommended if memory serves. R-core transformers should also offer great performance. Ideally, use separate trafos for 5V and 8V.
I did suggest to remove the black plastic shroud - I marked it on your photo. It's an easy improvement,
With transformers, while yours is perfectly sufficient, you will find that bigger sounds better. People went up to 120VA with good results. However the type of trafo also matters, Hammond 266-series was recommended if memory serves. R-core transformers should also offer great performance. Ideally, use separate trafos for 5V and 8V.
Attachments
If you are looking to tighten up the bass then OsCon should be right up your alley. However nobody will tell you what you like - it is always best to test for yourself.
The laptop-style platter was universally considered to sound worse so don't change for that.
By mechanical decoupling I mean the case materials, how the mechanism is mounted to the case, how the case sits on the surface below, and even what is your table made of (wood, marble etc.). This has been found to have influence so I am bringing this to your attention because looking at your photos this aspect seems a bit overlooked. Unfortunately there exist nearly infinite combinations of materials and connections so you have to experiment yourself. Just to prove that this even matters you can try something extreme, such as placing the mechanism on a pillow, and then comparing that to placing it directly on a super heavy, dense surface, such as metal or stone slab. Broadly speaking, heavy materials and rigid connections were usually considered to result in better sound.
The laptop-style platter was universally considered to sound worse so don't change for that.
By mechanical decoupling I mean the case materials, how the mechanism is mounted to the case, how the case sits on the surface below, and even what is your table made of (wood, marble etc.). This has been found to have influence so I am bringing this to your attention because looking at your photos this aspect seems a bit overlooked. Unfortunately there exist nearly infinite combinations of materials and connections so you have to experiment yourself. Just to prove that this even matters you can try something extreme, such as placing the mechanism on a pillow, and then comparing that to placing it directly on a super heavy, dense surface, such as metal or stone slab. Broadly speaking, heavy materials and rigid connections were usually considered to result in better sound.
Thank you much! Copper plate cost to much. Mayby much better will be 5 -10mm steel ? Better then my wood. So mechanism must have rigid connection,mayby i use 8mm bolt? Of i use corse two opisite point. And please tell me something obout spdif out, for now i have 100 dale rnc and 300ohm beyshlag 50ppm, can change to dale cmf55 300ohm. What better? And the last one.. ,capacitor before resistors, inhave 100nf np0 smd. My dac have an transformer on coaxial in.
I have track power supply pins for lc78601ir and for la9212 and closest capacitor is c953, so this cap should have priority importance, not c916 . But i have done something better in technical sense. i put caps near lc and la chips. But for noe dont tast it. what about cap in spdif?
Attachments
JVC RC-ST1, ST3 a bit different. Also, for 8V I recommend to use the LM7808, and do not do separated power supply for 5 V. Just check the 1st page: "Nothing worked better for me than a single LM7808 from National". Try to find National 7808 or old ST.
Last edited:
This is an English language forum. You most post in English.