I'm supposed to be. These days I'm starting to take it easier. Turning down clients that are problematic helps.
I don't see retiring. There are too many interesting things to do, more to learn. I'd probably drive Jovanka nuts if I stopped. Plus I have all this expensive test equipment, I can't just let it sit.
Keeping your mind alive is probably one of the most important things you can do for yourself, and family.
I don't see retiring. There are too many interesting things to do, more to learn. I'd probably drive Jovanka nuts if I stopped. Plus I have all this expensive test equipment, I can't just let it sit.
Keeping your mind alive is probably one of the most important things you can do for yourself, and family.
I bought my Vallorbe needle files from a supplier who normally deals with clock makers. Not cheap, but they do last, and you can do nice work with them. You can also buy beech handles having a brass collet to grip the needle file. I find I produce better work with them in such a handle than using them naked (which is permissible with needle files). On the topic of file handles, when you fit beech handles on ordinary files by heating the tang with a blow lamp then driving the handle on, the smell of burnt beech soaks into your skin and clothes, taking days to dissipate!
Hi EC8010,
I use them without a handle. Some have dipped plastic "handles". A real handle would be nice. I'll have to look them up, makes sense clock makers would use them. Thanks
I just used a fine needle file to smooth the top surface of the lower platter of a Thorens TD-125 MKII someone bounced on the floor. It looked worse than it was.
We didn't heat the file tang to drive normal files into a handle. We just bounced them, handle down. They would come out occasionally, but you just bounced them in again. Do they hold any better doing it that way? How hot do you get the file tang? I guess outside is a good location to do this, and in old clothes about to be discarded! lol!
I use them without a handle. Some have dipped plastic "handles". A real handle would be nice. I'll have to look them up, makes sense clock makers would use them. Thanks
I just used a fine needle file to smooth the top surface of the lower platter of a Thorens TD-125 MKII someone bounced on the floor. It looked worse than it was.
We didn't heat the file tang to drive normal files into a handle. We just bounced them, handle down. They would come out occasionally, but you just bounced them in again. Do they hold any better doing it that way? How hot do you get the file tang? I guess outside is a good location to do this, and in old clothes about to be discarded! lol!
If your powder coater doesn't understand why, or doesn't give a four letter word, time to find another. The coating WILL fail where it's bubbled, over a period of time. It's normally from zinc boiling out during the bake cycle, and can be prevented by putting the part in for a bake cycle or two before coating it with powder and baking the powder.
I ran through a reel of 3M copper tape, now I know where to find a less expensive replacement.
Generally I measure the tang taper and use drill to approximate (but undersized ! ) the fit before heating.
Then clamp the file in a vice using aluminium soft jaws.
Heat the exposed tang with a propane torch and when ready present the handle for a push/burn fit, then quickly remove to cool a little and refit and tap on firmly.
Have a practice with an old throwaway file and several scrap bits of wood until you get the feel of it.
You only need the tang at a low heat, just enough to smoke a little when fitting the handle.
Red heat is a sure way to immolate the handle or worse, burn through to your hand !
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Good idea, thanks. It isn't like I don't have some very old files I can play with.
I always wondered why they didn't make the tangs with backwards teeth that would go in easily, but not out. The profile pretty much ensures the handles come off.
I always wondered why they didn't make the tangs with backwards teeth that would go in easily, but not out. The profile pretty much ensures the handles come off.
Anatech
When you file things, try cutting on the push stroke and ease up on the back pull. Handles will stay on and debris will build up much less in the file teeth.
Old practice was to clean files by a dip in acid! Follow up with a rinse. I used to have a few shirts with holes in them where I had accidentally splashed a bit of acid.
One educational experience is to have a new version of your old trusty well used file to compare how they cut. After an acid bath the change in performance is noticeable.
When you file things, try cutting on the push stroke and ease up on the back pull. Handles will stay on and debris will build up much less in the file teeth.
Old practice was to clean files by a dip in acid! Follow up with a rinse. I used to have a few shirts with holes in them where I had accidentally splashed a bit of acid.
One educational experience is to have a new version of your old trusty well used file to compare how they cut. After an acid bath the change in performance is noticeable.
Hi Simon,
That's how I file. Even pressure on the push stroke letting the file do the work. When you're tired working with wood, the file tends to stick in the wood, and you're tired so not as careful with the draw stroke. after enough use, the handles do get loose. I use my file brush after each use, files are stored clean and dry so they don't rust. I'll admit to not using acid on them. Aluminum isn't bad. Steel, I would rather a machine shop did the work.
Some products I had to use flat files to make the heat sink surface smooth. Cyrus was bad for that. To get a smooth surface, you had to file carefully. I finished with a metal sanding block and 600 grit.
That's how I file. Even pressure on the push stroke letting the file do the work. When you're tired working with wood, the file tends to stick in the wood, and you're tired so not as careful with the draw stroke. after enough use, the handles do get loose. I use my file brush after each use, files are stored clean and dry so they don't rust. I'll admit to not using acid on them. Aluminum isn't bad. Steel, I would rather a machine shop did the work.
Some products I had to use flat files to make the heat sink surface smooth. Cyrus was bad for that. To get a smooth surface, you had to file carefully. I finished with a metal sanding block and 600 grit.
Some files are case hardened, good for toughness.
Do not heat them too much, or they will become useless.
Here we get plastic handles, just push in, very cheap.
Look for Japanese, Korean and Indian files, they are good, the Indian ones should be cheap...
Just thought and counted...three sets of 1 dozen each needle files, a few 10" and 8" files, a few needle files., 3 diamond files..so 40 odd in my house and plant...
A carpenter left a needle file he was using to sharpen his saws, small bit of TV antenna tube with wood stuffed in it serves as handle.
And I have used abrasive papers upside down on a one inch stack of newspapers to get a fairly flat surface, move the job over the paper.
And strips of abrasive paper stuck with wood glue to wooden beading as files, they work better at times where a file is awkward or not abrasive enough.
Do not heat them too much, or they will become useless.
Here we get plastic handles, just push in, very cheap.
Look for Japanese, Korean and Indian files, they are good, the Indian ones should be cheap...
Just thought and counted...three sets of 1 dozen each needle files, a few 10" and 8" files, a few needle files., 3 diamond files..so 40 odd in my house and plant...
A carpenter left a needle file he was using to sharpen his saws, small bit of TV antenna tube with wood stuffed in it serves as handle.
And I have used abrasive papers upside down on a one inch stack of newspapers to get a fairly flat surface, move the job over the paper.
And strips of abrasive paper stuck with wood glue to wooden beading as files, they work better at times where a file is awkward or not abrasive enough.
Yes! Tangs are always softer than the file itself and another useful option is the Skroo-Zon File Handle which has an internal tapered Hardened thread so you just screw it on with hand pressure.
Go to any quality engineering outlet and they will have these in a range of sizes and both wood and plastic.
Best though is that they can be screwed off and used on replacements or even just one handle for a number of files.
https://www.amazon.com/Skroo-Zon-Handle-Files-Threading-Insert/dp/B08CMMFKSP
Yep, the acid not only removes the filings, but puts an edge on the file 'teeth'.
Cleaning files in acid seems the perfect way to kill them. It is therefor nonsense to do so.
Normally one uses either copper sheet or a soft brass brush (NEVER a steel one). The file exists for a reason and has a purpose in its life. That purpose is not to be a blunt file.
Normally one uses either copper sheet or a soft brass brush (NEVER a steel one). The file exists for a reason and has a purpose in its life. That purpose is not to be a blunt file.
Judging by the amount of smoke I get, I probably heat my file tangs a little more than is really necessary (but only the tang). That said, I've never had one of my file handles come loose. Not in all the forty years I've had a blow lamp. Suffered lots of other people's loose file handles, mind. I just hold the file vertical above bench post, then push handle part-way and tap it the rest. (Hammering directly over bench post is more effective and less noisy.)
There used to be things called file cards intended for cleaning files. They were similar to a scrubbing brush with short steel bristles. I bought one, but have never really been convinced that it is useful. I find an old scriber along the line of the teeeth is best for unclogging aluminium etc from files. I expect a dental pick would be even better. A brass brush along the lines of the teeth is good for a routine clean, but decent brass wire brushes are now difficult to find. The ones that were sold for reviving suede leather are very good (fine bristles and densely packed).
Tip for filing aluminium: Don't wipe the surface with your finger to clean it before filing some more. Your sweat etc creates an oxide coating that is much harder than the aluminium itself, and harder to file. Try it on a bit of scrap aluminium, and you'll feel what I mean.
There used to be things called file cards intended for cleaning files. They were similar to a scrubbing brush with short steel bristles. I bought one, but have never really been convinced that it is useful. I find an old scriber along the line of the teeeth is best for unclogging aluminium etc from files. I expect a dental pick would be even better. A brass brush along the lines of the teeth is good for a routine clean, but decent brass wire brushes are now difficult to find. The ones that were sold for reviving suede leather are very good (fine bristles and densely packed).
Tip for filing aluminium: Don't wipe the surface with your finger to clean it before filing some more. Your sweat etc creates an oxide coating that is much harder than the aluminium itself, and harder to file. Try it on a bit of scrap aluminium, and you'll feel what I mean.
That picture changes quickly when not looking at only ones own situation. Things just do happen. Stuff breaks down, often a little helped by humans but not always.
File handles that have been OK for years and suddenly crack because of change of air moisture for instance.
File handles that have been OK for years and suddenly crack because of change of air moisture for instance.
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Don't get oil on the surface being filed. It was used as a wind up at the training school when we were filing..😉
Weak acid allegedly brings back the edges on a worn file, as I alluded to above. I haven't tried it, but I know people who have with some success.
I might try it this weekend as I have a number of good quality older files (probably 60 years old) that have become shiny from wear. I wouldn't expect them to return to 'as new' of course...