the distance's apart were also one of the reasons i built the Hiro rather than the Austin's. Reading of your impressions and p-10's recommendations has me reconsidering building a pair, plus the portability factor and being able to bring them to other house's etc. I have a dewalt 10" compound sliding mitre saw which angles both left and right so the angled cuts will be easy for me to do, it's just a matter of do i want to chance the expense of materials knowing that optimum corners will be a problem. I'm using a Fi2A3 amp with Shugaung 2A3 treasure series black bottle tubes, so bass is good and 5Hz less i can live with, - 10Hz i'd miss.
All of this has me wondering if and what size panel of wood could be placed perpendicular to the rear wall by the outside of the deflector to mimic a corner wall or lack there of?
All of this has me wondering if and what size panel of wood could be placed perpendicular to the rear wall by the outside of the deflector to mimic a corner wall or lack there of?
Hi guys,
In terms of "portability factor," the Austins are surprisingly easy to carry and much lighter than they look. I'll take a picture tonight so you can see the driver height.
Out of curiosity, what are the pros and cons of different 2A3's?
In terms of "portability factor," the Austins are surprisingly easy to carry and much lighter than they look. I'll take a picture tonight so you can see the driver height.
Out of curiosity, what are the pros and cons of different 2A3's?
besides the status / snoot factor of "NOS" RCAs, Emission Labs or other current exotics over Chinese or Russian?
But seriously, I've only had occasion to compare current production EH Gold Grid to the Sovteks that came with my Paramours, and quite preferred the former for resolution and low level detail.
Maybe ck Audio Asylum, the SET or Tube/DIY asylum has discussed this one in depth a few times, lots of details, varying w/ op points, drivers, etc, etc...
And why, tube construction, re-branded identical tubes, etc.
Chris, i also have RCA, Sylvania (gray and black plate) and new production JJ 2A3-40 tubes. I haven't got my hands on EML's or single plate Raytheons or RCA's but prefer the "treasure series", black bottle to all i've owned and others i've heard. I don't know if the black bottle 2A3's will last as long as a good 300b or be as shorter lived as a nos vintage 2A3 tube but i can see myself buying them again when the time comes.
Speaking of Sovtek's, I have owned 300b amps and didn't care for their 300b's. I also have heard among other triode types, old nos Westrex 300b in a direct shoot out with new production Western Electric 300b's thanks to Peter Breuninger's former Philadelphia Audio Society's events.
Speaking of Sovtek's, I have owned 300b amps and didn't care for their 300b's. I also have heard among other triode types, old nos Westrex 300b in a direct shoot out with new production Western Electric 300b's thanks to Peter Breuninger's former Philadelphia Audio Society's events.
The sibilance will disappear from the Sigmas eventually. They sound really rough for the first week of constant playing and get better for 6 months!
I built some BIBs with the 168EZ for a friend (around working) and they ended up taking me a month to build. The anticipation when we first hooked them up was flattened by this terrible flat screechy sound. But then a month later I visited for listening session and they sounded sweet - a lot closer to my BIBs. Bass extension seems to take its time to mature too.
You'll have to wait to pass judgment.
I built some BIBs with the 168EZ for a friend (around working) and they ended up taking me a month to build. The anticipation when we first hooked them up was flattened by this terrible flat screechy sound. But then a month later I visited for listening session and they sounded sweet - a lot closer to my BIBs. Bass extension seems to take its time to mature too.
You'll have to wait to pass judgment.
I'm really looking into this thread, I bought some 168E Sigmas, so wonder what the sound will be 🙂
keep em comming guys
keep em comming guys
barackuda
I am using my 168EZ is a BIB. Check out on this forum and you'll find a huge thread all about them.
The sound is very smooth but open and clear with excellent frequency extremes (bass weight). The top end is very good and goes easily as high as I can hear (I'm not 40 yet!) but it will not extend into the ultra high stuff, for that you will need a super-tweeter (if you think you'll need it) I never have.
But they do take some time to properly seat themselves and settle into the sound.
What cabinets are you planning to use?
I am using my 168EZ is a BIB. Check out on this forum and you'll find a huge thread all about them.
The sound is very smooth but open and clear with excellent frequency extremes (bass weight). The top end is very good and goes easily as high as I can hear (I'm not 40 yet!) but it will not extend into the ultra high stuff, for that you will need a super-tweeter (if you think you'll need it) I never have.
But they do take some time to properly seat themselves and settle into the sound.
What cabinets are you planning to use?
I keep wondering how much this has to do w/ the (large) increase in bass.
It didn't go lower (to my ears, but it's been months), but there's like a bump in the mid-bass?
I'm thinking that large pywood tube is resonating, and adding @ some freq, which is adding to room mode?
Did you try them w/ just the little deflectors yet (to cancel that theory)?
They didn't have that bump before, but my room (and everything else) was different; just trying to figure it all out.
The corner & deflector should make it go lower, not add a bump.
I thought they did sound noticeably smoother than the bibs though, and more consistent, from song to song.
Hope to have more time to listen next time, but it was fun anyway!
r
That will be interesting to know. Also, i didn't see the "supra baffle", perhaps lacking it is the reason for the mid-bass bump?
Hi guys,
Robert, you are right -- it's a bump rather than extension. It's a "chesty" sound.
I'm guessing that either the chamber needs a size adjustment due to the 168 (because the 166ESR's sound perfect), or it's just the tube amp's output impedance.
I should not have switched amp and driver at roughly the same time.
mp9, I don't think it's the lack of a supra-baffle because the frequencies in question are so low but thank you for the suggestion and will add one eventually!
Robert, you are right -- it's a bump rather than extension. It's a "chesty" sound.
I'm guessing that either the chamber needs a size adjustment due to the 168 (because the 166ESR's sound perfect), or it's just the tube amp's output impedance.
I should not have switched amp and driver at roughly the same time.
mp9, I don't think it's the lack of a supra-baffle because the frequencies in question are so low but thank you for the suggestion and will add one eventually!
NP, glade to be able to help.
Fwiw, i'm listening to M A SS I V E A T T A C K
H EL I G O L A N D cd and it sounds very powerful and full with them.
Hi Martin, well it wont be a cabinet, it will be a B&W shape teardrop enclosure, with supporting woofers at bottom. Still working on the back funnel shaped part.
As soon as I can find somebody with a lathe, the manufacturing can start 🙂
Danny
just a small sketch so you know what I'm talking about
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
and the start 🙂 very slow progress:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Wow. That is the first time I have seen a DIY teardrop shaped B&W thing for a single full-range driver. Do post on you progress always interested to see new things.
I am very particular about my music and room acoustics and yet I am totally happy with what I hear from the BIBs. So basic and yet very very good. One day I will build a new cabinet but right now I am just enjoying my music. I have just changed over to using a Squeezebox streaming WAVs from the Mac through a NOS DAC and this has made me realise what the FE168EZ are really capable of.
All the best with the project.
Martin
I am very particular about my music and room acoustics and yet I am totally happy with what I hear from the BIBs. So basic and yet very very good. One day I will build a new cabinet but right now I am just enjoying my music. I have just changed over to using a Squeezebox streaming WAVs from the Mac through a NOS DAC and this has made me realise what the FE168EZ are really capable of.
All the best with the project.
Martin
Thanks Martin, it will be a loooong journey, first of all to get the back of the enclosure right. Then to start fiberglassing 🙂 never done that before 🙂 will be fun (if I don't open the window that is).
As soon as I start the actual build, I will start a new thread.
Danny
As soon as I start the actual build, I will start a new thread.
Danny
I think one of the best cabinets for the Fostex 168z is the BIB. Considering the easy build and the full bass this combination is one of the best ways to enjoy full range sound with a low powered tube amp. Other Fostex can be used too... i particularly like the 165k in a BIB and others have built and enjoyed BIBs using the little 127e all the way to the big 206/207's.
The Jordan may well be one of the best full range drivers available and another way to enjoy full range magic but it's not as efficient and requires more power. I bet it rocks based on the numerous positive posts.
Here's some BIB pics from the past.
http://www.zillaaudio.com/bib/bib-pics.asp
Send me more if you have them. godzilla3@hotmail.com
Godzilla
The Jordan may well be one of the best full range drivers available and another way to enjoy full range magic but it's not as efficient and requires more power. I bet it rocks based on the numerous positive posts.
Here's some BIB pics from the past.
http://www.zillaaudio.com/bib/bib-pics.asp
Send me more if you have them. godzilla3@hotmail.com
Godzilla
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