Favorite Drivers at every price point and WHY?

Jump to Latest
#122
Aurum Cantus G1 Ribbon. I score it among the best tweeters at any price. I've worked/heard lots of ribbons from other brands but I believe G1 is the best so far.
Faital Pro HF10AK is also IMHO the best 1" compression driver tweeter under 500USD I've ever heard.
 
#123
I had the G3Si AC ribbon. I sold them. I have a Fostex T90A ST now instead. I liked my G3Si but the T90A is better for my older hearing. The ACs could be crossed much lower obviously and I originally bought them for a 2-way. Once I went with a smaller FR for my upper mids; the ST was the ticket so I sold the ACs. The G3Si was robust enough you could cross it 1st order (high enough obviously). For the original 2-way I tried 2nd order then 3rd order.

Dave123; where do you cross your G1? Freq? Slope, etc.??? Is it in a 2-way? 3-way? Just curious plus it may help someone undecided to try it!
 
#124
Favorite fullrange driver for me is the Mark Audio Alpair 10.3M, closely followed by the CHN110 (a steal for it's very cheap price) and the Alpair 7MS. Those have a reasonable flat response, very good dispertion for a fullrange and enough xmax to give real bass (rare with fullrange drivers).

Favorite subwoofer for hifi: SB34NRX75-6. Very good low detailed bass, not too expensive, fit for sealed or TL while still going very low within reasonable sizes and decent efficient. But not the driver to make your deaf like some here want. Then you better look at Faital, B&C and 18Sound pro audio drivers.

Favorite midbass: from those i know, the Scanspeak 18W/4531G00 is great, just like the SB Satori MW16P-8, and would be my first choice. On a budget, the Dayton RS180 is also very good for a smalle budget.

Favorite tweeters are now the SB26ADC or de SB29SDAC for the cheaper ones, or a Raal ribbons, (especially the lazy body one) when money is no issue.

Speakers i don't have experience in, but look very interesting are Bliesma tweeters and the Purify 6.5" midwoofer. But they are very pricey so...
 
#125
I'm still rather nostalgic for some Scan Speak 9500 tweeters and the Classic 18W/8545. They still hold up to today's more modern drivers. Also think highly of SS Revelator 5" midbass. Very nice midrange and great bass, at least with the high qts version. SEAS Millennium tweeter also is very nice, although they've become stupid expensive.
 
#127
fatmarley said:
If that's aimed at me, I watched the video and thought it was funny, but I still don't know what he means by 1st order.
I then skimmed through the whole thread, and I'm still not sure, but perhaps I missed something?
Click to expand...

In this instance you are Arthur asking about about the type of Swallow (..1st order acoustic or electrical?).

oldspkrguy is the bridge keeper:

"I don't know that!"
 
Last edited:
#128
Well, there can be a natural roll off of drivers on both ends. It may be first order, it may be second order, it may be something in between? When you combine say a first order electrical with the acoustic roll off, it could something else yet again. I will be the first to admit I do NOT have any sophisticated software for sims, etc. I guess some of these are good enough to accurately predict what happens under these various conditions; not just the text book theory of what the crossover should do but what it really does with any driver having detailed enough models/parameters...I don't see myself every going that far or ever needing to for that matter. I have been doing this long enough I can get very good to great results just by my hands on experimental methods...NOT for everyone obviously but it has served me well for over 50 years...
 
#130
oldspkrguy said:
Well, there can be a natural roll off of drivers on both ends. It may be first order, it may be second order, it may be something in between? When you combine say a first order electrical with the acoustic roll off, it could something else yet again. I will be the first to admit I do NOT have any sophisticated software for sims, etc. I guess some of these are good enough to accurately predict what happens under these various conditions; not just the text book theory of what the crossover should do but what it really does with any driver having detailed enough models/parameters...I don't see myself every going that far or ever needing to for that matter. I have been doing this long enough I can get very good to great results just by my hands on experimental methods...NOT for everyone obviously but it has served me well for over 50 years...
Click to expand...

As long as you're enjoying yourself, that's all that matters...
 
#131
http://seas.no/images/stories/prestige/pdfdatasheet/H1455_ER15RLY_Datasheet.pdf

http://seas.no/images/stories/prestige/pdfdatasheet/H1216_CA15RLY_SRA_Datasheet_.pdf

More examples of wide band drivers that "could" be used without X/O or minimal X/O. I have never heard these as DIY raw drivers but one of my buddies from way back had a 10 inch 3-way commercially built and mid-priced; possibly Thiel? (Lexington, Ky; not Theil-Partner). The mid was one of these units for sure. I remember I had to re-build the X/O board on one side only. He REALLY liked it LOUD; he blew up some capacitors on the mids but did NOT destroy these drivers; the caps looked like spent shotgun shells or spent fireworks or firecrackers! BOOM!!! Luckily, the other unit was fully intact so I could get the capacitor values...Usually, the drivers blow and not the caps; that is why I remember it; very unusual!
 
#132
Another thought that everyone must think about! Software may be advanced but it will NEVER approach the human brain...ANYONE that thinks their hardware or software is more advanced than the human brain needs to take a few quantum leaps back and re-evaluate everything you believe or THINK!!
 
#134
oldspkrguy said:
http://seas.no/images/stories/prestige/pdfdatasheet/H1455_ER15RLY_Datasheet.pdf

http://seas.no/images/stories/prestige/pdfdatasheet/H1216_CA15RLY_SRA_Datasheet_.pdf

More examples of wide band drivers that "could" be used without X/O or minimal X/O. I have never heard these as DIY raw drivers but one of my buddies from way back had a 10 inch 3-way commercially built and mid-priced; possibly Thiel? (Lexington, Ky; not Theil-Partner). The mid was one of these units for sure. I remember I had to re-build the X/O board on one side only. He REALLY liked it LOUD; he blew up some capacitors on the mids but did NOT destroy these drivers; the caps looked like spent shotgun shells or spent fireworks or firecrackers! BOOM!!! Luckily, the other unit was fully intact so I could get the capacitor values...Usually, the drivers blow and not the caps; that is why I remember it; very unusual!
Click to expand...

@oldspkrguy (and others), the Seas A26 Devore style thread left me wondering about other drivers with higher sensitivity than the Seas 87 - 88dB spec. So, if you can find a tweeter to cross @ 1.2K or 1.3K how about the following 10" woofer as a candidate for a simple XO in a 2-way? Doable or disaster?
Wom250_vHE | .Kartesian

Here is a moderately $$$'y but not too bad, 34mm beryllium dome tweet that can be crossed @ 1.3K
http://www.bliesma.de/Datasheet T34B-4.pdf
 
#136
I did a 10 inch 2-way in 1995; I remember because it was the same year as my divorce. 10 inch 2-way is not a normal thing but can work if drivers are very carefully chosen and matched. I used a Pioneer poly' cone woofer and the Audax 1.3 inch tweeter; I also tried the Peerless wide angle soft dome tweet (no longer available). The Pioneer had a good reach almost to 2000 and the break up was very mild so it worked. If not driven hard, the Audax tweet worked with 1st order; the Peerless tweet needed 2nd order; both worked well here though.

Audax TW034X0 1.3" Textile Dome Tweeter
 
#140
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom