no way that those crossovers are going to work. A compression driver in a horn needs a special equalization ( low shelving, notch, etc....) that those simple crossovers don't do. But you might try...Place a L-pad before the comp.driver to set the right level. Make a series notch RLC to be put in parallel.
Thank you Pico. This is valuable information. I will consider this before considering coax's with comp. drivers. My experience level with XO's is not enough to design the L-pad and the notch filter. So I think I have to go back to searching for another driver for this application.
Or take a few minutes to learn XSim, which will be invaluable for you in the future, and a cool way to learn about XOs.
completely graphical, you just put parts around and see their effect. Very intuitive, and great learning tool:
XSim free crossover designer
completely graphical, you just put parts around and see their effect. Very intuitive, and great learning tool:
XSim free crossover designer
Yeah, I played around with it some. Since I was so into FR's I never got to use it properly though. 🙂
15 litres is small when we are talking about the W8-1772 !
But Dave raises a good question... How loud and how dynamic do you need your kitchen speakers to be?
Most of the time, in my kitchen anyway, it would be elevator music levels, where you kinda lose the bass.
Having 8" drivers means beaming, so you will get higher frequencies right at the spot the speakers are aiming, but will drop very quickly as you move around the kitchen.
I would look into some coax drivers instead, staying with TB, like the W6-2313.
And since you have dsp, you can put them in a sealed enclosure and boost the low end a bit to reach your subs.... But again, will you have many rave parties in your kitchen?
What about this? A bit pricey but about the same price as the W8-1772 incl. crossover.
SEAS Prestige T18REX/XFC (H1353) 7" Coaxial, clear Cone
It's 8 ohm and only needs 9 liters. 🙂
I thought you were in a hurry to build these?
Still only looking at drivers? 🙂
That SEAS looks nice. Should work, but indeed, more expensive than the other options discussed prior.
Still only looking at drivers? 🙂
That SEAS looks nice. Should work, but indeed, more expensive than the other options discussed prior.
Yep still looking at drivers 🙂. I'm quite new at the hobby and so many requirements, small cabinet, shouldn't beam, point source, 8 ohm etc. etc. I just got an extension 🙂 The kitchen renovation won't be finished until mid september. 😀
Finally it looks like I found the right driver. It has a matching crossover too.
Thank you so much for all your help. You got me thinking about coax's. Thanks a bunch to Dave and Pico as well.
Finally it looks like I found the right driver. It has a matching crossover too.
Thank you so much for all your help. You got me thinking about coax's. Thanks a bunch to Dave and Pico as well.
Last edited:
System done and installed.
Thank you all for your help. I installed two tapped horns crossed at 100Hz with a miniDSP Dirac. The 4 tops are SEAS H1353-08/06 T18REX/XFC coaxials in 5.4 liter closed boxes. Great results. Here are some pictures. Thanks again!
Thank you all for your help. I installed two tapped horns crossed at 100Hz with a miniDSP Dirac. The 4 tops are SEAS H1353-08/06 T18REX/XFC coaxials in 5.4 liter closed boxes. Great results. Here are some pictures. Thanks again!
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