My soldered PCB clone stk3102(version davidsrsb), but 5401/5551 in sot-92, because I not find in sot -223 how need by davidsrsb. This clone soldered in amp and I check on sinus signals without transistor final stage, but with closed loopback. On days solder transistor of output stage and see final result of clone. I have big problem with quality components in my country!
The STK series were mostly made by Sanyo, and are called thick film hybrid modules.
If you see the data sheets for a chip amp like the LM1875 / LM3886, the data is given for a band of optimal supply, and the amplifier maker decides the supply and input voltages, within the specified bands.
You cannot do much about the emitter voltages and so on, that is more or less part of the supply voltage.
The things were famous for blowing up, and like any car, if you red-line it, it will fail faster than at cruise levels.
Same principle here, a cheaper module used near limits will heat and blow faster than the right one at the right levels of voltage and heat dissipation.
I would rather use a ready plate amplifier, that is a more durable and easy solution here for me, than chasing down a STK403-90 in a damaged Sony set, for which I paid $1.50 at the flea market...display is fine, so it is a back burner project. It will take me half a day, I have the service manual, but also many amplifiers, been six years now since I got it!
If you see the data sheets for a chip amp like the LM1875 / LM3886, the data is given for a band of optimal supply, and the amplifier maker decides the supply and input voltages, within the specified bands.
You cannot do much about the emitter voltages and so on, that is more or less part of the supply voltage.
The things were famous for blowing up, and like any car, if you red-line it, it will fail faster than at cruise levels.
Same principle here, a cheaper module used near limits will heat and blow faster than the right one at the right levels of voltage and heat dissipation.
I would rather use a ready plate amplifier, that is a more durable and easy solution here for me, than chasing down a STK403-90 in a damaged Sony set, for which I paid $1.50 at the flea market...display is fine, so it is a back burner project. It will take me half a day, I have the service manual, but also many amplifiers, been six years now since I got it!
Hello, everyone. I've just installed substitute STK3102 MK3 Instead of MK4 and it works perfectly fine 🙂. If anyone is in doubt go for it its a substitute even for mark 4
I would have no illusions! My path seems more correct to me!
This thread Fake STK3152/STK3102
What this mean?
I repaired the LUXMAN L 435 amplifier using the module you designed and tested it, tested it at an output power with a resistive load of 100 W at 8 Ohms at 20 kHz. I listened for several hours and my impressions of the sound of the amplifier are purely positive. The quiescent current is adjusted and remains excellent! If anyone needs a clone of STK3xxx on SMD developed by David on FR4, the second layer of foil of the board is preserved, then please contact me in a personal conversation or for advice.
I do not know the difference between the II or III. The amp is a Sony TA-N55ES with the 3102III in it.
What is the supply voltage in your amplifier? Was everything else that burned out identified and replaced?
This is the key question, affecting the choice of bias resistors and sometimes transistor type in the module.
I have lost my access to HiFiEngine, so cannot check manuals
I'm a novice when it comes to this. The amp is a friend of mine and I believe the left channel was out. I was going to start with a re-cap, relays, and a good cleaning.
I also replaced the STK 3102III with one I purchased on ebay, but after reading about the fakes, I was a little disappointed.
Depends on luck! I tested my DIY replacement in an amplifier, loading it to fully and warming it up. In addition, I use transistors with a collector-emitter voltage of at least 160V, which allows me to use a replacement according to the circuit and design of the board pf davidsrb when powered up to +-70V.
Hey, this is Dan from Audiokarma. I will do a bit more reading, but it looks like this board will work perfectly fine for the mark III. Here is a portion of the schematic with the chip in your amplifier.
Looks like it sees about 56 V rails. Hopefully David will chime in and confirm this will work for the mark III, but I don’t see any reason why this wouldn’t work in your amplifier. It’s been a long while since I’ve made comments in this thread, I’m sure they’re way way back.
Dan