Very impressed with this interpretation. Having built a F5m (just waiting for it to warm-up), I would like to build the fan version but suspect bringing complete kits into the UK would not be cost effective. Is there any chance the PCBs would be available separately, almost like an essentials kit?
In theory it could be bodged onto the board but I think your best bet would be to use a 12v trigger power outlet to switch the supplies.
Yes, it's Jameco p/n 2229992. Do note that the AmyAlice doesn't have a ton of capacitance across the rails so it's not necessarily a drop in for all designs. I'll post the complete BOM when I list the kits.
I'll look into this more once I've got the production and shipping for full kits running smoothly.
It appears the F5m Redux leaves one shaking ones head from side to side playing "Jump into the Fire", and when the guitar kicks in on La Grange, one can't help but bob your head uncontrollably with a smile on your face.
Confirmed...the F5m Redux kicks butt again and again! "Puro de agave" indeed. "You know what I'm talking about..."
A really tasty setup! The only ”downside” i can see with this setup is that it hides the cool looking PCB design and all of the fine components.
But thats me 🙂
But thats me 🙂
Brilliant design! A very clever way to cool and power a class A. I had thought about using the AmyAlice filters like this but I don’t think anyone answered my questions.
Just kind of thinking, it would be sweet to have a preamp chassis with 2 cutouts to countersink the F5m's.
These are so cool! I'm almost regretting buying the case and parts for the original F5m, which I have yet to begin haha.
I'd still want the linear supply (mounted in a separate, utilitarian box), mostly to stay in keeping with the premise 'simple is better' which hopefully promotes greater long term reliability. DC umbilicals running from the PS to a redux F5m behind (or on top!) each speaker. Sounds awesome to me, but is it feasible?
Will the redux kits be offered without the bricks?
I'd still want the linear supply (mounted in a separate, utilitarian box), mostly to stay in keeping with the premise 'simple is better' which hopefully promotes greater long term reliability. DC umbilicals running from the PS to a redux F5m behind (or on top!) each speaker. Sounds awesome to me, but is it feasible?
Will the redux kits be offered without the bricks?
Jump into the Fire is such a powerful song. Ty Segall's interpretation blasts through a heap of distortion.
@N Brock now I need excuse for another system! This will be a beautiful kit. I'm impressed with your reinterpretations of what an amp can be . . . preamp next?
@birdbox excellent work!
Hi Guys,
I am utterly perplexed with a problem with the bipolar power supply. I assembled the PSU and wired it according to the schematic. I am 100% certain I did this correctly. Got the thermistor in series, the capacitor in parallel. Check. The rectifiers are oriented correctly. Check. On the PSU, the caps are oriented correctly. Check. The ground thermistor is connected to the chassis through the metal standoff. Check. Everything is done correctly, as far as I can see. I checked the output voltage of the transformer and found 18.5VAC and 18.6VAC. Check. No problems to this point.
So, I turn on the power, expecting to see 24VDC output voltages, but instead I get a blown fuse. After trying a few times to get a different result (the definition of insanity) I disconnected the PSU and measured the resistance across RECT 1 (no resistance) and RECT 2 (no resistance either). Huh? That would seem to explain my blown fuses, but why would there be no resistance?
It seems I have a short circuit, but I have no idea what's going on here. What am I missing? I still haven't wired the amplifier boards yet, pending resolution of this problem. I sure would appreciate any help in resolving this problem. I don't have the first clue what to do. Feel free to berate my ignorance if necessary.
Thanks,
Dave Chorney
I am utterly perplexed with a problem with the bipolar power supply. I assembled the PSU and wired it according to the schematic. I am 100% certain I did this correctly. Got the thermistor in series, the capacitor in parallel. Check. The rectifiers are oriented correctly. Check. On the PSU, the caps are oriented correctly. Check. The ground thermistor is connected to the chassis through the metal standoff. Check. Everything is done correctly, as far as I can see. I checked the output voltage of the transformer and found 18.5VAC and 18.6VAC. Check. No problems to this point.
So, I turn on the power, expecting to see 24VDC output voltages, but instead I get a blown fuse. After trying a few times to get a different result (the definition of insanity) I disconnected the PSU and measured the resistance across RECT 1 (no resistance) and RECT 2 (no resistance either). Huh? That would seem to explain my blown fuses, but why would there be no resistance?
It seems I have a short circuit, but I have no idea what's going on here. What am I missing? I still haven't wired the amplifier boards yet, pending resolution of this problem. I sure would appreciate any help in resolving this problem. I don't have the first clue what to do. Feel free to berate my ignorance if necessary.
Thanks,
Dave Chorney
Dave, I think you posted in the wrong thread. Your description implies the standard F5m using the Nelson Pass PSU, not this unique Nelson Brock "Redux" design. Please confirm if my understanding is correct and always provide pictures for context.
Hi Neal,
Does the fan blow down (over/through the heat sink), or suck up?
I ask as a precursor to considering whether one could combine this with the upcoming speaker camp speaker - placing the amp underneath the speaker with sufficient airspace above the fan...
Does the fan blow down (over/through the heat sink), or suck up?
I ask as a precursor to considering whether one could combine this with the upcoming speaker camp speaker - placing the amp underneath the speaker with sufficient airspace above the fan...
You talkin to me? N = Nelson
The fan blows downward into the heatsink. I'd guess that a half inch gap above the fan would be enough to keep the air moving.
The fan blows downward into the heatsink. I'd guess that a half inch gap above the fan would be enough to keep the air moving.