F5 Turbo Builders Thread

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nashbap

Member
Joined 2012
thompsontechs said:
@BigE

I drilled them out as well, The pads are big enough to do so, I read where the holes were intended to be larger, but the mistake wasn't caught. The fear was that drilling them would cause a pad to rip, or come loose. I used a high speed drill and very little pressure. It worked like a champ and thee is no need for wire trick, or header pins etc. All the holes except the gate were drilled to accept up to 14 gauge wire.



This is after the first hole drilled, see the one ground hole which is larger. Sorry for the blurry photo.
Click to expand...


Make sure you solder the wire on both sides of the PCB since the thru hole plating is now removed.
nash
 
thompsontechs

thompsontechs

Member
Joined 2019
*Note: When you drill out the holes to use larger wire there is something else to consider. The top pad, or bottom, depending on the board layout, become isolated from the circuit. In other words, the only connection for the opposite side pads, is the through hole. Once you remove that , you will loose that sides contact with the circuit. This being the case, I suggest you do not drill the boards.



When you flow solder through the hole and solder both sides that connection is reestablished, but...., again, I would not advise this procedure. If I only had eye where my rectum is... :)



JT
 
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thompsontechs

thompsontechs

Member
Joined 2019
BigE said:
Soldering the wiring direct in place assumes it will work perfectly the first time.

I drilled the same holes on the FE board but mounted them with a male spade connector, making disassembly possible.

Sadly, the holes on the output boards don't line up.
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The flexibility of the board leaves a lot of options. I considered taking the output off the board closest to the front, ground and output right there. Is there something with pulling the output across both boards that makes it better to pick it up from the FE board? I have them on the FE, but it would be neater and shorter the other way.
 
Itsmee

Itsmee

Member
Joined 2009
If you have the clearance, after drilling, replace the through hole plate; copper or brass, available in many sizes.
 

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BigE

BigE

Member
Joined 2008
thompsontechs said:
The flexibility of the board leaves a lot of options. I considered taking the output off the board closest to the front, ground and output right there. Is there something with pulling the output across both boards that makes it better to pick it up from the FE board? I have them on the FE, but it would be neater and shorter the other way.
Click to expand...

The FE board needs a feedback signal.

I've got a terminal strip that connects output to speaker post, and another line to FE board, thus avoiding any high currents flowing near the FE board.

At least, that's what is supposed to happen -- not completed, but hopefully soon.
 
thompsontechs

thompsontechs

Member
Joined 2019
Here's the deal.... one side matters not at all after drilling. Well, I guess it might for stability, but there is no contact there, so it doesn't mean squat. Yes, the solder flow may reconnect it, but the only trace that matters, has been limited to one side; Not only that, it has been reduced from drilling.



Here's the thing... you want to drill to increase the DIA of wire size you may use, but in doing so, you reduce the contact surface by less than half. Do your own maths. The bottom line is you are better using a cut down wire, and soldering the base of said wire to the pad than you are drilling. At the very least it's a wash.



I did some testing after I drilled, there was only one side of the pad making contact with the trace. That said, soldering from both sides makes ZERO difference other than the stability.



FWIW


JT
 
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N

nashbap

Member
Joined 2012
thompsontechs said:
I did some testing after I drilled, there was only one side of the pad making contact with the trace. That said, soldering from both sides makes ZERO difference other than the stability.
FWIW
JT
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Yes from the stability standpoint. If you do not, there is a strong likelihood that when you move the board after the wire is soldered on, you will lift the pad and the trace along with the wire.
nash
 
B

bambadoo

Member
Joined 2003
Hi all. First time reading this thread...(difficult for F5T beginnes getting the basic information)
Trying to rescue a F5T (dual mono). Not the prettiest built I have seen. But after I have finished I assure you it will be fine :) It will be torn apart and rebuilt.
It looked like a rats nest so I guess something shorted one time....
It is still in dissassembly mode and of course a couple of FQA19N20c transistors have gotten wings.

Any chance of getting new(old) ones anywhere that are not ebay fakes?

Sincerely
Magnus
 

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thompsontechs

thompsontechs

Member
Joined 2019
bambadoo said:
Hi all. First time reading this thread...(difficult for F5T beginnes getting the basic information)
Trying to rescue a F5T (dual mono). Not the prettiest built I have seen. But after I have finished I assure you it will be fine :) It will be torn apart and rebuilt.
It looked like a rats nest so I guess something shorted one time....
It is still in dissassembly mode and of course a couple of FQA19N20c transistors have gotten wings.

Any chance of getting new(old) ones anywhere that are not ebay fakes?

Sincerely
Magnus
Click to expand...


I'm working on a V2 build now and I looked, but didn't find anything I would trust. Many of use have subbed the IRFP240P and 9240. Which are also obsolete however, there are still some available.
 
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