looks like PSU and heatsinks make up the whole box.bobodioulasso said:
Prompts the question: where is the amplifier?
Who says keeping it simple (small) makes for better sound?
Not exactly.
The starting point was the four second hand heatsinks i got on ebay.
I found this the best way to have a compact case. Same lengh and deepth as the hafler dh220. 400x240x130mm.
The starting point was the four second hand heatsinks i got on ebay.
I found this the best way to have a compact case. Same lengh and deepth as the hafler dh220. 400x240x130mm.
udailey said:
Thanks for hosting!
My only thought to distract to the pre-heating, as we did not start at room temperature. The amp had been in my unheated trunk for 6 hours. So I think it took it longer than usual to get to normal operating temp. The setup definetely sounded great with good recordings, and shows that you can't expect miracles from so-so recordings.
Tea - Bag
korben69 said:
Not a mistake but...
You can easily get away with 25V at C1-C8, also can use say, 33.000uF or anything else as long as you have enough (I have 8x33000uF/25V (Panasonic) per channel) and basically, four of these can do for two channels, and @digikey the price is just fine...
Also, do not need to match the output devices; the ZTX can be replaced with BC546/BC556 or similar, will not change anything sonically (depends on what you can get off the shelf)
R1-R8 can be a single 5W 0.1R resistor, and actually, the amp sounds better, much better when you toss it away altogether... So, it will be cheaper to throw away a pair of 5W 0.1 Ohm resistors than 8 pieces...
just my 0.02$
korben69 said:
Nelson suggested a change in R21,22 from 10k to 22k -- try both and see which you prefer -- particularly at large swings.
Yes stein2, you're right ! 😉
My intention was to gather the basic part list according to Nelson's design, as mentionned in the F5 Owner Manual.
For the mods you've pointed, everyone will appreciate your knowledge and thanks your sharing attitude. 😎
Thanks to Jackinnj too !
BTW
My intention was to gather the basic part list according to Nelson's design, as mentionned in the F5 Owner Manual.
For the mods you've pointed, everyone will appreciate your knowledge and thanks your sharing attitude. 😎
Thanks to Jackinnj too !
BTW
korben69 said:
There's nothing wrong with the setup Nelson published, built as listed, the amp will be just fine.
Removing the series resistor from the CRC network will not increase the inaudible noise/hum, only will improve the imaging, 3D and feeling of speed of the already excellent amplifier. To make it even better, you can increase the amount of filtering caps and/or add a 50uF motor run capacitor per each rail (so, two per amp/PSU) ... I didn't change the 10K to 22K so I can't comment.
About the IR in the P channel, I like it as it is, was actually a bit afraid at first about problems, but used to FR horns, and not listening to music as if it was a mixture of highs, mids and lows in proper or improper ratio, simply playing what comes along, I appreciate the very well controlled lows and not so aggressive highs, but then, I was listening music on a SE amp with EL34 in the past two decades... It kind of grows on you after that much time. Built F5 from curiosity, now leaving the tube amp to my wife and moving the F5 upstairs to my new listening room...
😀
Zen Mod said:
Da Toobz are still better .......
That's why we're going to squeeze a few in front of it...
Yar back seems to be better today?
Variac said:
Naaah...
Married in '87, moved to our own house in 2006, by then, she was way too... well, I'm not as young as I was back in 1987 and even then, I wasn't all that happy to carry her anywhere, that's why god gave her those legs. To use them.
Couldn't figure how to make legs on F5 so... Have to carry it myself
Babowana said:
What sonic differences did you note from capacitance only ps?
I'd guess deeper/tighter base and a little less veiling of details, a little more open, sound stage wise. 😀
