Hi,
I was just looking at the f5 service guide and saw that .0033 mf? capacitor across the ac line power inputs. Is this necessary?
Thanks,
JG
Not absolutely necessary but probably a good idea to supress line noise.
hmm, isnt it also something with saving the contact breakers from burning, or switch-on "transient sparks" ?
Not absolutely necessary but probably a good idea to supress line noise.
ok, thanks. What's the actual value or does it matter?
I remember Nelson commenting that it wasn't absolutely neccessary to use the capacitor. I bought a .0033uf for my F5 if I ever finish it. I would just use what the master uses. Make sure it is line rated.
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=P4623-ND
I found this explanation.
Line-Filter
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=P4623-ND
I found this explanation.
Line-Filter
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Alright. Where do I get boards to build this amp already?
I've read enough to know I want it hot, I want it fresh, and I want it now. =)
I've read enough to know I want it hot, I want it fresh, and I want it now. =)
man it s freezing cold hereI need to build my F5 😀
Heck yeah! No reason wasting those watts in a space heater when you can have music + warmth instead!
man it s freezing cold hereI need to build my F5 😀
Likewise. Woke up to over a foot[300mm] of snow this morning. Need to fire up the musical heater
Alright. Where do I get boards to build this amp already?
I've read enough to know I want it hot, I want it fresh, and I want it now. =)
Peter Daniel is making available F5 boards again. Check with him. I just ordered a pair.
Alright. Where do I get boards to build this amp already?.......
Right here at DIYA store
F5 PCBs - PCB Bank
R21 and R22 22k will be.
Another question. I am looking for caps for the psu, I have cviller boards. Should I go for 25 V caps ? I feel a bit tight, but there is a wider choice of 25 V compared to 35 V. What are you using ?
D.
Another question. I am looking for caps for the psu, I have cviller boards. Should I go for 25 V caps ? I feel a bit tight, but there is a wider choice of 25 V compared to 35 V. What are you using ?
D.
Another option is forget about the pcb and go for the screw type, but these are more expensive.
D.
D.
Another option is forget about the pcb and go for the screw type, but these are more expensive.
D.
There are screw type caps that are the size of beer cans and the leaded ones about a third of that size - with the same exact specs(uf and v). I always wondered - what am I getting for the extra size and cost?
Higher maximum allowable ripple current, and most likely lower equivalent resistance.
Even better would be to parallel a lot of small caps, sort of like NP paralleling 1000 JFETs.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/172770-balanced-f5-question-8.html#post2349852
Patrick
.
Even better would be to parallel a lot of small caps, sort of like NP paralleling 1000 JFETs.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/172770-balanced-f5-question-8.html#post2349852
Patrick
.
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Anyone interested?
I can probably fit this on a DIP8:
Of course, when you parallel JFETs you run the risk of oscillation, and each SOT23 device has to be matched up. With 4 parallel J270's I get about 20mS.
I can probably fit this on a DIP8:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Of course, when you parallel JFETs you run the risk of oscillation, and each SOT23 device has to be matched up. With 4 parallel J270's I get about 20mS.
This may have been answered in some page, but here I go; I have seen that rising up the bias to 2A per device is a quite common practice for this design if you want more power but...
What if I down it from 1.3A to, let's say, 1A? Is quality affected or does it decompensate the circuit in any way?
My heatsinks are running a bit hot and I don't use to listen to more than 1W power, so there's a lot of "unused bias"
Thank you guys, regards
Regi
What if I down it from 1.3A to, let's say, 1A? Is quality affected or does it decompensate the circuit in any way?
My heatsinks are running a bit hot and I don't use to listen to more than 1W power, so there's a lot of "unused bias"
Thank you guys, regards
Regi
I can probably fit this on a DIP8:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Of course, when you parallel JFETs you run the risk of oscillation, and each SOT23 device has to be matched up. With 4 parallel J270's I get about 20mS.
jackinnj: I'm certainly interested, although I won't be building anything anytime soon; I think it looks a really cool idea! I did some BF862 buffers (and juma's BF862 preamp) on DIP8s and DIP16s, and thought it was great fun, and certainly successful. (Listening to one of them now.) I wondered a year or so ago about trying N- and P- complementary circuits (like Hiraga's Le Monstre) using SMD, but I couldn't find complementary pairs, and I don't have the understanding or experience to figure out something like you've posted. So do you mind a bunch of daft questions? (Some of them a little OT, maybe... sorry...)
1. "Matched up" here means for Idss? And I presume you mean a matched quad. right?
2. Why four? Again, is Idss the issue, or capacitance or something?
3. Apart from the challenge, is there any reason to squeeze five fets on a DIP8? Why not just use a DIP16?
4. How "complementary" would you expect such an arrangement to be, compared to a matched 2SK170/2SJ74 pair? And would this be closest to BL-grade? How would you go about trying to "fabricate" a substitute for Y- or GR-grade?
Well, I'll be fascinated to hear more!
Cheers
Nigel
The transconductance of a single J175 or J270 doesn't come close to matching the 2SJ74 -- lower distortion goes hand in hand with higher gm. In the case of the F5, the gain of the first section is 20dB, so it's a bit of a "dog food" problem getting the right gm, and bias for the IRFP240;s.
I've done it on a breadboard and there were no issues with oscillation. The J175 is actually MMBFJ175 -- SOT23.
I've done it on a breadboard and there were no issues with oscillation. The J175 is actually MMBFJ175 -- SOT23.
This may have been answered in some page, but here I go; I have seen that rising up the bias to 2A per device is a quite common practice for this design if you want more power but...
What if I down it from 1.3A to, let's say, 1A? Is quality affected or does it decompensate the circuit in any way?
My heatsinks are running a bit hot and I don't use to listen to more than 1W power, so there's a lot of "unused bias"
Thank you guys, regards
Regi
Why don't you just try it and let your ears be the judge.
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