I know, been reading alot of this thread, but 750 pages is alot.
As for having a high resolution system, I dont, using an old NAD surround receiver as pre amp, blasphemy to even think about using it with a F5, I know.
Why going balanced if your source is single ended only?
A PS for balanced F5 requires 4 times the current @ 24V... People lower the voltage to stay with reasonable current.
Best converters? Xfrms, of course! But the very good ones are scarce and $$$$
My 2 c: start with a std F5 and.... enjoy!
P.S. the 8 x 0R47 (4+4) form a RC filter with the second cap(s). This helps to reduce noise in the pw supply.
A PS for balanced F5 requires 4 times the current @ 24V... People lower the voltage to stay with reasonable current.
Best converters? Xfrms, of course! But the very good ones are scarce and $$$$
My 2 c: start with a std F5 and.... enjoy!
P.S. the 8 x 0R47 (4+4) form a RC filter with the second cap(s). This helps to reduce noise in the pw supply.
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How about a Triac switch, the fashion of the late '80s ?
(mmm, or just solder a burn-safe resistor across the fuse box leads)
I like a Gershwin tune. How about you ?
Im quite satisfied with the output power in class A but I want some more power into Class AB, it is nice to have a little power in reserve.
I have had a burned amp
Printboard was literally in flames
But that didnt blow the fuse
Big trafos, big fuses
Could be a problem
Question is whether its just a fake safety
Bear,
No offence intended.
You are on my personal list of luminaries for DIYAudio. Impressive site BTW.
My personal dogma is that things like fuses "should not" affect sonics.
If they actually do affect sonics, there "should be" a way to correct it in the power supply design.
I do like the breaker idea.
Peace
Doug
DougL, thanks for the kind words. I assure you I am not a luminary, just an idiot savant, heavy on the idiot most of the time I can assure you. Ask anyone who actually knows me... my personal dogma is that nothing should effect sonics, but apparently almost everything does. Therefore things are weird and I leave it at that and just accept it.
Breakers have problems too...
The good thing about a class A amp is that the current draw is the most constant of all analog amplifiers, so the effect of the fuse is that it ought to have the least effect (one would think).
I like the idea of a multi contact relay as the power switch, designed so that it will open in the event of a fault condition - to save the house, not the amp.
Of course that gets complex and maybe is more complex to execute so that it works right than the whole entire two channels of F5. Kinda defeats the purpose?
So, at minimum, fuses are definitely required in the AC mains to protect from catastrophic failure and resulting fire.
(just in case anyone was unsure)
_-_-bear
Breakers have problems too...
The good thing about a class A amp is that the current draw is the most constant of all analog amplifiers, so the effect of the fuse is that it ought to have the least effect (one would think).
I like the idea of a multi contact relay as the power switch, designed so that it will open in the event of a fault condition - to save the house, not the amp.
Of course that gets complex and maybe is more complex to execute so that it works right than the whole entire two channels of F5. Kinda defeats the purpose?
So, at minimum, fuses are definitely required in the AC mains to protect from catastrophic failure and resulting fire.
(just in case anyone was unsure)
_-_-bear
Yes But, to avoid the "possible" degrading of signal make them short, and use silver ones,
Ive even read somewhere years ago that, ceramic affect the signal less, and I have used that approach along with the silver ones,
and never been able to tell the difference with my ears, but it makes me, feel better about my sound system. examples available: Xindak Silver Fuse For Audio 2A. also HiFi-Tuning Silver/Gold fuse, 2A, slow blow, just do a search on ebay "silver fuse"
Maybe better think about your fuse holder
Skip the fuse holder; solder the end plates directly to the switch and wire
Just wipe the standard fuses and the f/holder contacts with a good contact grease and just "wax lyrical" (talk about) all those $30+ silver fuses and the even more expensive holders - if you want to spend money at the ac inlet, better quality IEC plugs/socket with good quality reasonable cost power cable is a much better investment (IMO, naturally)
I do suggest you also clean/grease all these ac bits regularly, when you do the RCA plugs/sockets (yes, even the silver ones)
But applying your efforts, and $s, on the power supplies themselves (components and design) is still the best "bang for your buck" that you'll ever get.
I do suggest you also clean/grease all these ac bits regularly, when you do the RCA plugs/sockets (yes, even the silver ones)
But applying your efforts, and $s, on the power supplies themselves (components and design) is still the best "bang for your buck" that you'll ever get.
To answer my own question, the 8 x 0R47 resistors are part of the RC filter.
Pays off to do a little searching and googling(remember, google is your friend).
To answer my own question, the 8 x 0R47 resistors are part of the RC filter.
Pays off to do a little searching and googling(remember, google is your friend).
You didn't notice, but somebody else answered to your question....yesterday!
You didn't notice, but somebody else answered to your question....yesterday!
Oh, didnt see that.
But thanks for the answer.
Hi there,
Hello everybody, some questions, what is the value of the gate stopper? I saw someone even short them when I go though the thread, the orginal circuit found in FirstWatt website is 47R, however I read the F5 review from 6moon is shown 150R in the pictures? What is the effect when the value is change? My F5 was almost done, perhaps need some final fine tune, I may post the picture when I get back the DC from my girlfriend, Cheers.
Alvin
Hello everybody, some questions, what is the value of the gate stopper? I saw someone even short them when I go though the thread, the orginal circuit found in FirstWatt website is 47R, however I read the F5 review from 6moon is shown 150R in the pictures? What is the effect when the value is change? My F5 was almost done, perhaps need some final fine tune, I may post the picture when I get back the DC from my girlfriend, Cheers.
Alvin