I got my PS built tonight for the F5. I went dual mono and used smaller transformers (bigger ones were hard to come by here). So I am pretty happy I got it all put together neatly enough. Testing now to follow.
Pics to follow too.
Another Q though:
I'm using a Tx with a single primary. How exactly should I wire in the CL60s? Should I add just one in series with the AC live or should I parallel 2 of them with one AC leg? I think they are the 5A rated ones.
Fran
Pics to follow too.
Another Q though:
I'm using a Tx with a single primary. How exactly should I wire in the CL60s? Should I add just one in series with the AC live or should I parallel 2 of them with one AC leg? I think they are the 5A rated ones.
Fran
Thanks Cviller. It only shows one in the F5 manual, but somehow when I did my BOM I included 2 (as shown for the 110V version). I had a doubt then about using one or 2!
Thanks for the advice. Looks like its PS testing tomorrow!
Fran
Thanks for the advice. Looks like its PS testing tomorrow!
Fran
The 115 people run twice as much current through, so to get the same effect they have to use two thermistors (in parallel).
I've been building the chassis all day and my brain isn't working now. I'm just finishing up the boards and installing the pots with the pre-adjustment.
When NP says to adjust P1 and P2 for minimums at startup I'm assuming that is zero ohms across, such that Q1/2 drains are at the rails and Vgs to outputs is 0v. Then ease into the pots (increase resistance) alternately to develop/increase voltage across R3/4. Is that correct?
Trying to avoid big smoke signals.
When NP says to adjust P1 and P2 for minimums at startup I'm assuming that is zero ohms across, such that Q1/2 drains are at the rails and Vgs to outputs is 0v. Then ease into the pots (increase resistance) alternately to develop/increase voltage across R3/4. Is that correct?
Trying to avoid big smoke signals.
tms0425 said:........
When NP says to adjust P1 and P2 for minimums at startup I'm assuming that is zero ohms across, such that Q1/2 drains are at the rails and Vgs to outputs is 0v. Then ease into the pots (increase resistance) alternately to develop/increase voltage across R3/4. Is that correct?
correct .
Thanks ZM. I drove about 6 hours today, then spent the rest cutting and tapping metal and soldering pcb's. My tired head said the Mosfets couldn't wake up as long as all that was true. Once I erased the current protection parts and ignored the double feedback loops the remaining circuit is ridiculously simple so it makes sense now.
Somehow I thought I could build a chassis and the electronics in one day, but alas, maybe two it is... Like those TV shows where you have 8 hours to fabricate an entire custom motorcycle 😀 Crazy, those guys...
Somehow I thought I could build a chassis and the electronics in one day, but alas, maybe two it is... Like those TV shows where you have 8 hours to fabricate an entire custom motorcycle 😀 Crazy, those guys...
If most of those custom motorcycle guys were to build an amp the heatsinks would come predrilled and tapped and the pcb would be full of discrete components.
The majority of the diy audio community is truly from SCRATCH. Testing each discrete component from maybe hundreds and cutting, drilling, tapping and assembling everything with household tools.
I mean would it not be nice to have a water jet milling tool at home to fabricate with.
I await my pcb's so I can begin this nice journey in F5 territory.
So how does it sound?? This latest creation from Mr. Pass.
The quality of the one off amps built here is truly a work of art.
Thanks Nelson for the nice proven designs.
Tad
The majority of the diy audio community is truly from SCRATCH. Testing each discrete component from maybe hundreds and cutting, drilling, tapping and assembling everything with household tools.
I mean would it not be nice to have a water jet milling tool at home to fabricate with.
I await my pcb's so I can begin this nice journey in F5 territory.
So how does it sound?? This latest creation from Mr. Pass.
The quality of the one off amps built here is truly a work of art.
Thanks Nelson for the nice proven designs.
Tad
> I'm running the amp without thermistors and few minutes ago I also removed current limiting components.
Same here, for almost half a year.
I thought you were only building chipamp these days. 😉
How do you like the F5 ?
Patrick
Same here, for almost half a year.
I thought you were only building chipamp these days. 😉
How do you like the F5 ?
Patrick
I'm always looking for better amps and I'm using F3 in my main system for over a year now.
Today was a first day I listened to F5 (with Fertins). Initially it seemed to be a bit lean, dry and bass shy. But I liked the clarity and purity of the tone 😉
After I removed current limiting circuitry the amp became much more emotionally envolving and now it seems to have quite a potential. It's certainly cleaner that GC with better detail, although I drive it directly from a DAC (no volume control) while the GC was always played through TVC.
I would still like to have it more texture and tone density, but I hope to improve on it with better matching PS (I'm presently using IXYS bridges and 4 x 22000/40 Sikorels).
But so far I like it.
Today was a first day I listened to F5 (with Fertins). Initially it seemed to be a bit lean, dry and bass shy. But I liked the clarity and purity of the tone 😉
After I removed current limiting circuitry the amp became much more emotionally envolving and now it seems to have quite a potential. It's certainly cleaner that GC with better detail, although I drive it directly from a DAC (no volume control) while the GC was always played through TVC.
I would still like to have it more texture and tone density, but I hope to improve on it with better matching PS (I'm presently using IXYS bridges and 4 x 22000/40 Sikorels).
But so far I like it.
Not to stray for the subject...
Peter,
Did you make those cables in your picture 2 posts back? And, don't you guys sleep?
Looney 😉
Peter,
Did you make those cables in your picture 2 posts back? And, don't you guys sleep?
Looney 😉
Peter Daniel said:
Geez, I thought the F5 was supposed to sound good the way it is? It got a good review.
Speaker cables are Omega Micro (copper ribbon with active mesh shield). The interconnects are from a local guy who was developing cables for over two years and finally came with a product that apparently is quite good and according to him better than Indra.
labjr said:
Before I submited my post, I doubled checked that it does not contradict the review 😉
Peter,
if you get a chance would you post some details of the parts you removed? Is it just the thermistors?
Fran
if you get a chance would you post some details of the parts you removed? Is it just the thermistors?
Fran
In the picture a page back, is your source a PC? and if so what OS and why.
Why not your Shigaclone?
Inquiring minds want to know.
Why not your Shigaclone?
Inquiring minds want to know.