@ regiregi22
Clean & tidy layout.
Is that a Hifi2000 case (BTW I have problem loading their website just now) ?
Looks like the mounting angles and the bottom / top plates are made from galvanised steel and partly power coated.
Am I correct ?
Thx in advance,
Patrick
Clean & tidy layout.
Is that a Hifi2000 case (BTW I have problem loading their website just now) ?
Looks like the mounting angles and the bottom / top plates are made from galvanised steel and partly power coated.
Am I correct ?
Thx in advance,
Patrick
Thanks for your compliments, one of my first aims was to separate AC power wires from signal ones, and placing power transformers away too. The other was to separate small signal from power output to avoid oscilations.Looks like the mounting angles and the bottom / top plates are made from galvanised steel and partly power coated.
Am I correct ?
yes, it is an HI-FI 2000 case. What I'm not sure if about the galvanized steel, I would say yes but I am not an expert in materials. Even don't know what is a powder coated steel or how does it look like.
Attached is another case I bough for my last project. I strongly reccommend this manufacturer if you are looking for a very solid and resistant enclosure.
Regards,
Regi
Attachments
If you could find a piece of magnet, then you could see which parts are attracted to it.
Those would be made of steel.
Judging from the photos, I would bet that all are steel except for the thick aluminium front panel and the two heat sinks.
Patrick
Those would be made of steel.
Judging from the photos, I would bet that all are steel except for the thick aluminium front panel and the two heat sinks.
Patrick
Patrick and JBdV are both right.
On some product lines they use more Alu parts - you can tell by the price. 😉
On some product lines they use more Alu parts - you can tell by the price. 😉
I've been tempted to build a F5 into a hifi2000 case, but the heatsinks were a bit of a concern - are they big enough?
It probably depends which Hifi2000 chassis you are planning to use. They have versions in 2U, 3U 4U and 5U (height). The dissipation capabilities are scaling accordingly 🙂
Here are some numbers (french but a Watt is a Watt 😉) :
5U - HIFI-2000 05/500B Boitier Dissipateur 5U / 500mm - Façade 10mm Silver
Here are some numbers (french but a Watt is a Watt 😉) :
5U - HIFI-2000 05/500B Boitier Dissipateur 5U / 500mm - Façade 10mm Silver
Yeah, I said I wasn't sure about the exact composition of the tray, but for sure it is NOT alu, it has to be steel. As Patrick said, you can check the materials here:Patrick and JBdV are both right.
On some product lines they use more Alu parts - you can tell by the price. 😉
modushop.biz
I will try later the magnet checking
Spev, don't be afraid about modushop's for an F5. Just take the Pessante Dissipante 4U or 5U height. 3U is not enought, specially if you are placing a discrete diode bridge of 8 devices in each heatsink as me. Take the 5U one, you wont regret and you will be able to bias it higher than 1.3A. You can even choose a deeper case (400mm instead of 300mm).
I hope this helps,
Regi
I have tried with the magnet from a speaker I had lying around, and Patrick's assumptions were correct; The tray, the mounting angles, the top and bottom cover and the back panel are pulled from the magnet (well, the other way around in fact 🙂 while the front panel and heatsinks don't.
Didn't mind about it, but now I can see that this makes a quite strong chassis. When you hold it, feels like you cannot break it even if you throw it against the wall 😀
Didn't mind about it, but now I can see that this makes a quite strong chassis. When you hold it, feels like you cannot break it even if you throw it against the wall 😀
Yes they do have versions with aluminium plates, but the angles and the screws are still most likely steel (magnetic).
Patrick
Patrick
Sure I do,
However there is a risk of DC offset failure with the F5 itself. The DCB1 doubles that risk if there is a failure there.
However there is a risk of DC offset failure with the F5 itself. The DCB1 doubles that risk if there is a failure there.
What are your speakers? Full range or multi-driver.
The bass driver is likely to have to pass any DC output offset.
The Mid and Treble drivers are very likely to have a capacitor that provides DC protection (if the rating is high enough).
The capacitor can be a film type for both these passband frequencies
Are you planning to use your 27W ClassA amplifier to drive the bass speaker?
The bass driver is likely to have to pass any DC output offset.
The Mid and Treble drivers are very likely to have a capacitor that provides DC protection (if the rating is high enough).
The capacitor can be a film type for both these passband frequencies
Are you planning to use your 27W ClassA amplifier to drive the bass speaker?
Multi driver. My bass drivers have passed DC in the past and didn't take too kindly to it 😉
Amp would drive the whole shebang.
Good point Jan, and precisely what i have in my amp at the moment given its previous meltdown...
Amp would drive the whole shebang.
Good point Jan, and precisely what i have in my amp at the moment given its previous meltdown...
Hi Peter,
If I wish to build F5 in mono block, what is the minimun transformer VA should I use? And what is minimum value of uF for the two electrolyte capacitor on PS boards?
Regards
MartinTie
If I wish to build F5 in mono block, what is the minimun transformer VA should I use? And what is minimum value of uF for the two electrolyte capacitor on PS boards?
Regards
MartinTie
This GB (3rd re-run) was just opened, so plenty of boards are available.
I would go with 300VA, but 200VA should work fine too. As to caps, minimum would be 10,000uF per cap.
Hi Peter,
If I wish to build F5 in mono block, what is the minimun transformer VA should I use? And what is minimum value of uF for the two electrolyte capacitor on PS boards?
I would go with 300VA, but 200VA should work fine too. As to caps, minimum would be 10,000uF per cap.
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